06-20-2016, 07:48 PM
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#1
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Join Date: May 2016
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Lift + sway bar question (don't shoot me I did search for like 30 minutes)
I am soon going to install the suspension lift I gathered. Coils are 881 front and 890 rear.
I see a lot of people getting disconnects (which I wouldn't be opposed to) or extended links but:
First - do I even need sway bars? The rear seems like an easy no (took the rear off my last vehicle) and the front doesn't seem to be a big deal however I have read people saying it'll wear your shocks much quicker. I drive it very seldom as I have a DD and this is mainly a wheeling rig with maybe a road trip here or there. Maybe 1k-1.5k total miles in a year.
Second - with the exception of limited down travel are there any other cons to leaving the stock bar on?
Third - should I just quit being a lazy ass and just get some disconnects or extended links?
And I won't take offense if you reply to this thread with helpful threads, but keep in mind I did read about 6-7 of them.
I guess I will throw this in there too as I only did minimal reading on this but with a 3" rear and 2.5" front lift do I need extended brake lines if it will see a decent amount of time off road and flexed (where I go likes to see if it can take a wheel off the ground for ya)
Thank you all in advance.
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06-20-2016, 08:04 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Tennessee
Age: 26
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Real Name: Charlie
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With how little you drive it, I would take both off.
I ripped off my rear one and haven't put it back on for probably 6 months at least. I usually disconnect my front one when I go off-road. It's definitely beneficial to disconnect the front. Not sure that the rear makes much of a difference...
I'm planning on putting the rear back on with extended links once I get my new e-locker axle to put on.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STX4Runner
90% of the build threads in the 5th Gen section consist of Fuel Wheels, Plastidip, Duratracs and window tint.
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1998 4Runner "Diamond" - Daily Driver (rolled & rebuilt) - 3.4 5-Speed, Coastal Bumper, Manual Hubs, 255/80r17 AT3Ws (409k+ Miles)
1997 4Runner "Becky" - Camping Rig - 3.4 Auto (for now), Armored, Cable E-Locked, Coastal Bumper, Sleeper Deck, 255/80r17 AT3Ws (185k+ Miles)
1989 4Runner | Tennessee 4Runner Group
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06-20-2016, 08:27 PM
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#3
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I have an e-locker so does that make any difference? I wouldn't think so but I have seen a few that said they want to put the rear back on when they get the locker. Is it just because you don't need flex as much due to the locker?
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06-20-2016, 08:30 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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I'm just doing it then so I don't have to take it off and put it back on in a month or so when I swap axles. haha
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STX4Runner
90% of the build threads in the 5th Gen section consist of Fuel Wheels, Plastidip, Duratracs and window tint.
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1998 4Runner "Diamond" - Daily Driver (rolled & rebuilt) - 3.4 5-Speed, Coastal Bumper, Manual Hubs, 255/80r17 AT3Ws (409k+ Miles)
1997 4Runner "Becky" - Camping Rig - 3.4 Auto (for now), Armored, Cable E-Locked, Coastal Bumper, Sleeper Deck, 255/80r17 AT3Ws (185k+ Miles)
1989 4Runner | Tennessee 4Runner Group
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06-20-2016, 09:00 PM
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#5
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Oh okay. Do you know anything about the front sway bar in relation to expedited wear on the front suspension?
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06-20-2016, 09:08 PM
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#6
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I removed my front sway bar on my Tacoma and with a load in the bed, (2 dirt bikes and gear) the truck started to sway left to right REALLY bad and dangerously driving down on the freeway home. The taco as have no sway bar in the rear.
The rear sway bar removal I wouldn't mind doing. No way would I remove the front again. Disconnects for offroad is good. But full on removal I wouldn't do
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06-20-2016, 09:12 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWD4R
Oh okay. Do you know anything about the front sway bar in relation to expedited wear on the front suspension?
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I've heard this as well and have had both of mine off for about 4 years. The lifted suspension had been on for 5 years. Everything still rides like new except for the used 9 wraps I got for the rear, they squeak but still hold well. This is my dd so I have put 30,000 on it since the lift. I have had to replace the bushings on the front coil overs once but that's the only work my suspension has needed. I went with the extended brake lines because I wasn't sure how much lift the 9 wraps would give me. You should be fine if your sticking to 2" of lift. Hope this helps.
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06-20-2016, 09:18 PM
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#8
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Thanks. I am doing 3" in rear and read you shouldn't need it but who knows how knowledgeable people are without seeing more from them lol
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06-20-2016, 09:28 PM
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#9
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You'll probably hear every opinion since you asked. I drove mine lifted with no sway bars, and I didn't like it on the freeway. So I added the rear sway bar with extended links (95 4runner links), and have rear sway bar 100% of the time. I get a ton of flex in my opinion, and I have pretty big bumpstops in the rear anyway.
I guess it would really depend on how you like on road ride without. I think if you run a pretty stiff front spring setup and a rear sway bar with links, it's a pretty decent setup.... for me at least.
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-2005 4Runner Limited V8 AWD - Toytec Boss Suspension, SPC UCAs, 285/70/17 Level 8 MK Wheels (17x8, -10), Tandem Rock Sliders
-1998 LX470 (Stock)
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06-20-2016, 09:34 PM
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#10
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The 881 isn't very stiff I don't think. I also have a shrock bumper and winch so it may be a little... Not enough lol. And I forgot to ask do I need to get new bump stops? Ugh so much maintenance lol
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06-20-2016, 09:49 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWD4R
The 881 isn't very stiff I don't think. I also have a shrock bumper and winch so it may be a little... Not enough lol. And I forgot to ask do I need to get new bump stops? Ugh so much maintenance lol
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Check out the sonoran steel website, individual suspension parts sections. There is some narrative on certain parts. I don't agree with every bit of it, but it's pretty good stuff.
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-2005 4Runner Limited V8 AWD - Toytec Boss Suspension, SPC UCAs, 285/70/17 Level 8 MK Wheels (17x8, -10), Tandem Rock Sliders
-1998 LX470 (Stock)
www.KeenanOffroadFab.com
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06-20-2016, 09:53 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXLX1
Check out the sonoran steel website, individual suspension parts sections. There is some narrative on certain parts. I don't agree with every bit of it, but it's pretty good stuff.
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Thank you. I will go look in a bit.
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06-20-2016, 09:58 PM
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#13
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The anti-roll bars are designed to work together and removing one or both will affect the understeer or oversteer characteristics of the vehicle and could make it a real handfull in an emergency maneuver.
In a slow speed crawler, OK, but anything that is being used on the hwy should have the bars connected, and if lifted the links should be extended.
My old crawler didn't have any anti-roll bars, but I had Rancho 9000 shocks up front and I'd dial them up to max damping when on the road, (short trips only).
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1998 4Runner Limited, King coilovers, Trick Toys Fab front bumperette/lightbar, TTF rock rails, Toyo 265's, locker mod.
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06-20-2016, 10:06 PM
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#14
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This a good cheat sheet. It's really meant for sports cars, but the same principles and forces apply.
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1998 4Runner Limited, King coilovers, Trick Toys Fab front bumperette/lightbar, TTF rock rails, Toyo 265's, locker mod.
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06-20-2016, 11:06 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roc Doc
The anti-roll bars are designed to work together and removing one or both will affect the understeer or oversteer characteristics of the vehicle and could make it a real handfull in an emergency maneuver...
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Roc Doc knows what he is talking about. When you remove a sway bar or both, the feel of the vehicle changes, but that is nothing compared to the safe handling of the vehicle that Toyota designed into the truck. The safety can be changed dramatically, and it will almost always be a negative change, unless you know more than the Toyota engineers.
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I have a 9" body lift.
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