07-15-2016, 02:49 PM
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#61
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You can also tell one of the online stealer parts departments that you can't find the part on their website and maybe they will look it up for you. Try Toyota Parts of Dallas or Camelback.
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07-15-2016, 03:46 PM
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#62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldub
If you're really on St. Kitts, finding parts may not be so easy.
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So you see my problem.
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"Island Paradise" 1996 Toyota 4Runner SR5 2WD 235 75r15
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07-15-2016, 03:58 PM
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#63
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Ah, crap sorry for not seeing this sooner. So, I definitely came across the part number for that stud in my weeks of research. Now I can't find it! I'd check Google and look for results from the YotaTech forum, and maybe the ih8mud forums? Those were the other two places I was getting good info from.
Speaking of which, I definitely just read this Fan Clutch replacement - YotaTech Forums
It's talking about :
"I have read the following in several sources: Toyota 4Runner V6 4WD 5VZFE MUST follow mftr. torque specs when reinstalling the fan clutch, pulleys, and water pump housing!! Most common reason for water pump bearing failure i s overtorqueing during this process.
Most write-ups indicate that the four 10 mm bolts should be tightened to 65 IN/lbs and no tighter.
Yet the fan clutch is bolted to the fan bracket which appears to be completely isolated from the waterpump housing and bearings. See pictures:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...elt/tbr_03.jpg
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...elt/tbr_04.jpg
How could tightening these bolts possibly affect the waterpump or bearings?
What am I missing?"
I definitely over-torqued mine because I was using those nuts to rotate the assembly so I could reach the next stud to thread. I think I need to go back and do it right, eh? I should use a pry bar to rotate it, right?
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2004 Sport Edition V8. 3" OME lift. 5th Gen Brakes. 285/70 Duratracs. JBA UCAs. SCS Ray10s. DT Headers.
1997 4-Runner Limited w/ factory locker. Totaled in February 2018. Still miss it.
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07-15-2016, 04:00 PM
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#64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atalarico
Ah, crap sorry for not seeing this sooner. So, I definitely came across the part number for that stud in my weeks of research. Now I can't find it! I'd check Google and look for results from the YotaTech forum, and maybe the ih8mud forums? Those were the other two places I was getting good info from.
Speaking of which, I definitely just read this Fan Clutch replacement - YotaTech Forums
It's talking about :
"I have read the following in several sources: Toyota 4Runner V6 4WD 5VZFE MUST follow mftr. torque specs when reinstalling the fan clutch, pulleys, and water pump housing!! Most common reason for water pump bearing failure i s overtorqueing during this process.
Most write-ups indicate that the four 10 mm bolts should be tightened to 65 IN/lbs and no tighter.
Yet the fan clutch is bolted to the fan bracket which appears to be completely isolated from the waterpump housing and bearings. See pictures:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...elt/tbr_03.jpg
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...elt/tbr_04.jpg
How could tightening these bolts possibly affect the waterpump or bearings?
What am I missing?"
I definitely over-torqued mine because I was using those nuts to rotate the assembly so I could reach the next stud to thread. I think I need to go back and do it right, eh? I should use a pry bar to rotate it, right?
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it cant.
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1985 pickup : EFI 331/4r70W-Dana 300-42 TSL SXII's/raceline beadlocks-30spl longs-5.29's-spools-sky Hi steer-OBA/4g tank-10.5k RR winch-dual blue tops-200 amp alt-flatbed.
1985 4runner sr5 : 22RE/5spd-6" pro-comp suspension-37 BFG at's-5.29 gears-Badlands Basher bumper-8.5k RR winch.
2006 4runner v8 limited : stock. Build Thread YouTube Channel
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07-15-2016, 04:04 PM
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#65
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Finger tight for the nuts, then about 1/8 of a turn clockwise to tighten. I believe the torque spec is 48 in/lbs, less than the valve covers so not tight at all. I don't think even one of my stud threads is visible on any of the four.
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07-15-2016, 04:14 PM
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#66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada
it cant.
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Yeah, most of that thread came to that conclusion, but then there were still recommendations to not over-torque them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
Finger tight for the nuts, then about 1/8 of a turn clockwise to tighten. I believe the torque spec is 48 in/lbs, less than the valve covers so not tight at all. I don't think even one of my stud threads is visible on any of the four.
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Ah! See, I was wondering earlier in the thread if you're supposed to be able to see the threads from the stud, but I think it got buried. Sounds like not! I haven't a clue as to how you'd be able to gauge the torque on this given the space constriction, so I'll just loosen them all up, torque some tester bolt nearby to see what 40-60in/lbs feels like, and then estimate.
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2004 Sport Edition V8. 3" OME lift. 5th Gen Brakes. 285/70 Duratracs. JBA UCAs. SCS Ray10s. DT Headers.
1997 4-Runner Limited w/ factory locker. Totaled in February 2018. Still miss it.
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07-15-2016, 04:17 PM
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#67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZionXIX
So you see my problem.
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I think you're looking for one of the parts listed here...
ToyoDIY.com Water Pump Assembly Parts Listing
Probably the 16100G BOLT, STUD(FOR WATER PUMP SET)
90116-08270
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2004 Sport Edition V8. 3" OME lift. 5th Gen Brakes. 285/70 Duratracs. JBA UCAs. SCS Ray10s. DT Headers.
1997 4-Runner Limited w/ factory locker. Totaled in February 2018. Still miss it.
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07-15-2016, 04:23 PM
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#68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atalarico
Yeah, most of that thread came to that conclusion, but then there were still recommendations to not over-torque them.
Ah! See, I was wondering earlier in the thread if you're supposed to be able to see the threads from the stud, but I think it got buried. Sounds like not! I haven't a clue as to how you'd be able to gauge the torque on this given the space constriction, so I'll just loosen them all up, torque some tester bolt nearby to see what 40-60in/lbs feels like, and then estimate.
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in my opinion, you would be wasting your time. they will be fine. they may be over tight, but given their location, its fairly difficult to get them over tight to the point of a failure. which is really the only concern. I think you would have to try to do that.
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1985 pickup : EFI 331/4r70W-Dana 300-42 TSL SXII's/raceline beadlocks-30spl longs-5.29's-spools-sky Hi steer-OBA/4g tank-10.5k RR winch-dual blue tops-200 amp alt-flatbed.
1985 4runner sr5 : 22RE/5spd-6" pro-comp suspension-37 BFG at's-5.29 gears-Badlands Basher bumper-8.5k RR winch.
2006 4runner v8 limited : stock. Build Thread YouTube Channel
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07-15-2016, 04:51 PM
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#69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada
in my opinion, you would be wasting your time. they will be fine. they may be over tight, but given their location, its fairly difficult to get them over tight to the point of a failure. which is really the only concern. I think you would have to try to do that.
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Dude, have you not seen how I manage to be the outlier with even the most "routine" of tasks?!
Honestly it'll give me something to do. Hah. Watch, I'll under-torque them and the damn fan will fly off.
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2004 Sport Edition V8. 3" OME lift. 5th Gen Brakes. 285/70 Duratracs. JBA UCAs. SCS Ray10s. DT Headers.
1997 4-Runner Limited w/ factory locker. Totaled in February 2018. Still miss it.
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07-15-2016, 06:18 PM
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#70
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Those studs listed above are the studs that mount the WP. I believe the studs you're looking for only come on the fan bracket.
More Information for AISIN FBT004
If you can get a bite on those nuts, they'll come loose but at this point, I would remove the entire fan bracket, fan clutch, fan assembly and put a torch to that nut and get a quality 12mm and use the closed end and wrench it off. Or maybe a small pipe wrench might get a bite on it too.
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Last edited by JRZEE2000TR4LTD; 07-15-2016 at 06:22 PM.
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07-15-2016, 06:36 PM
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#71
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For the OP, with limited parts availability you can just use a regular nut with a washer and use a bolt in place of the missing stud and nut. You'll have to figure out how long the bolt needs to be by trial and error or taking out one of the studs and measuring the length.
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07-16-2016, 09:25 AM
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#72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redneckj
A flare wrench is the wrong wrench for that job IMHO. I just replaced my fan clutch on Sunday morning. I used 2 normal 12MM craftsman boxes in wrench. The perfect wrench to use would be a long 12mm ratchet end wrench.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-WRN771...ratchet+wrench
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Thanks for posting the wrench suggestion. I just bought one because I'm going to be replacing a fan clutch for another dude next Wednesday. I'm sure hoping I don't have the same problems the OP is having.
OP, you do seem to be cursed with working on your rig. You had a difficult time with the trans cooler install as well. You have to perform some type ceremony to ward off the evil spirits.
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07-23-2016, 12:04 PM
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#73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRZEE2000TR4LTD
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After discovering that my Fan assembly only has 3 bolts, I have been searching for an alternative to replacing the entire fan bracket assembly. I thought about cutting some threaded rod. Then I decided to just buy a long enough M8 bolt and cut the head off. However I was concerned with how the threaded rod portion of the bolt would sit in the bracket. How does the factory bolt dtay secure? Is it welded? Locktite? Maybe the bracket female threads stop at a wall in order to torque the threaded rods to a high enough value to prevent backing out?
Well however they chose to install it, the previous threaded rod came out, what's to stop this one from doing the same? It was at that point I thought, why cut the bolt at all? Why not buy a bolt of the appropriate length and just use the bolt as it was intended.....to bolt stuff together. I bought several lengths of M8 bolts since I did not know what size I would need.
I bought a 25, 20, 16, 12, and 10mm just to avoid a 2nd trip to the store. I ended up using a 20mm with a 5/16 lock nut washer to simulate the effect of the flange nut with the 'teeth' for digging into metal. I found that with the lock nut washer, the 20mm barely caught the threads. It was just enough so I could put a wrench on it to tighten down the lock nut washer. Had I used a flat washer, threading the bolt would have been no problem. I even think I could have gone down to the 16mm bolt with a flat washer as I had the fan contorted a little when trying to thread the bolt. I think it turned out pretty well. I might try swapping out the bolts when I change the belts.
The bolt that missing in the 1st picture is the 20mm
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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07-23-2016, 01:21 PM
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#74
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Last edited by Buteephe; 07-23-2016 at 01:24 PM.
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07-23-2016, 01:55 PM
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#75
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pb blaster is too thick to creep into anywhere. that along with wd40 is garbage. get some aerokroil. best stuff. i've been using it for almost 30 years and won't use anything else.
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