I also just put paint pen marks on the UCA to verify that the ball joint isn't getting moved.... It doesn't look like they have, but just to cover my bases.

Yes i think that little bit of movement is normal with the ITRE & OTRE locked together at least from what I've seen.

Was your OTRE bottomed out when you had the initial alignment or did you notice it after you took it back when they were looking everything over? Because when my friends OTRE lock nut came loose, the lock nut bottomed itself out on the OTRE & the ITRE kept spinning on its ball joint until the ITRE tightened itself against the lock nut. And at that point, the lock nut was very tight so at first glance when we were checking to see if anything was loose, everything seemed good and tight until I noticed that there were no more threads showing on the OTRE............my bad if it sounds confusing.

The first alignment (last week) was right after the SPC UCA were installed. The nuts were in a "normal" position when started. During the alignment is when he noticed the toe and to fix it, had to back them all the way out. So from then to this time, those didn't move or change, and where still tight. That's what's strange. There were 4 of us looking it over and none of us could see where anything moved or shifted.

After alignment today with the top set on E

255/85 cooper ST maxx. No rubbing while flexed statically.

How is the in town and highway drivability?

On "D" and correct Caster I feel its way too sensitive on the highway. I feel I can't relax and drive. When I get back from the Slope it's going back in to be set on E or F.

I want to have my rear shocks put in and rear LCA (adjustable ) as well first though.

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I've only driven it from the shop to home, about 2 miles. I'm road tripping next week so I'll get back to you then.

Did you set the top to E then take it in or did the alignment shop set it to E for you? If you set it to E before you took it in, they should have at the very least been able to maintain where your caster was with the "before" measurements.


My experience with the D-G settings with 315s & daily driving/driving dirt roads:

When I set my caster to D, the alignment shop was able to get my caster to ~3.2-3.5. I believe the factory range is around 2.3-3.8. On D, drivability was good but rubbed the pinch weld frequently with 315s.

On E the alignment shop got my caster to ~2.5-2.7. Good drivability & less rubbing but would still occur turning on inclines going forward or backwards.

On F, the alignment shop got my caster to ~2.1-2.3 which is just outside of the factory range. Good drivability and occasional rubbing when turning into or out of steep driveways/hills.

On G, the alignment shop got my caster to ~1.5-1.7. No rubbing and good drivability.


With the above caster readings, the alignment shops where able to get the camber and toe in the factory range going from D to G.

DO you have your day bars installed?

Sway Bars? I have the front one in. I broke the bolts off in the mounts on my rear taking it out to grease the bushings so I have to rebuild those. Right now my rear is pulled out. That's happened a while ago and I can't even tell I pulled it out (did it before I changed out my UCAs). Now, I don't plan on leaving it off because I do what the protection they provide in emergency situations.

Though if you look at my alignment sheet at the start of this thread my rear axle is off. I'm right now putting parts in the cart for new shocks and adjustable LCAs. I'll put those one when I get off of the Slope in about a month. Then align my front again with most likely "F" setting. I just want to make sure doing that won't make it even more sensitive.

I'll save the "G" setting for a last resort (if or when I go to 35s)

I was just asking because I was missing rear also do to broke bolts and had to drill and tap them. I'm currently at 4* caster and when it was missing had same issue on highway. She is pretty solid now. The rear sway bar helped dramatically. Went from unsafe feeling to completely safe. Months back I installed adjustable Panhard and had rear aligned. That helped a lot also. I don't see how adjusting rear pinion angle with adjustable lca's will help.

I'm getting aligned Saturday on g. I did still notice some rub when pulling into drive way quickly even on g with 33's. Hope alignment helps.

It does help. Any info helps. I'll have to work on the rear sway bar when I return. My pinion angle is fine. To adjust that I would get rear adjustable uppers. I'm getting lowers to fix the axle not being square.


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So the lcas can pull or push the axle to shorten or lengthen wheel base but dont you need the panhard bar adjusted to square the axle to the front tires?

Pan hard bar centers the axle side to side.

LCA will square the axle front to back.

UCA adjusts pinion angle.

That's the experience I've gathered.

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Gota know how you like the Coops....after you've driven on them a bit. That was the size I wanted but ended up with the 285's

I'm having a bit of trouble finding shops willing to mess with the SPC's....checked around locally before I did the swap so I could just take it in after....no custom work....both places said.
So much for small town America. If it's not in the book we don't do it.
Have to expand the search...and the drive.

@fourfive thanks for the help. I've been fighting alignment shops almost two years since my spc install. On stock control arms I had about 1.5* caster and zero rubbing. I've had rubbing issues on the spcs on settings A-E. Two offroad alignment shops recommended A and got me 4-5* caster and still slight rub on the street.

Just finished with alignment on the G setting. Pretty much puts the spc arms in stock uca location. They had to max the lca's to get me 1.5* caster. Pushed tire way out. So much room at the pinch weld now. I could easily run some 35's with the clearance now.

Again thanks so much!!

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