08-04-2016, 09:01 PM
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#1
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Horn Stopped working...Help Please
Just for attention
Hey y'all...01 4runner question...the other day, went to honk the horn and it didn't work. A few hours later I decided to hit it and it worked a couple times, but then stopped working again and currently does not work. I understand this will most likely be a wiring issue but can anyone tell me exactly where and what wires i need to test for continuity? The fuse is good, when I push the steering wheel horn i hear a click noise, cruise control works, no airbag light on (which i think eliminates my clock spring as being the issue), I wired the horn directly to the battery and it honked so I know the horn is not the problem either. Thanks guys...and if anyone has pics, that would be great...I HATE electrical stuff.
SOLUTION=GROUND wasn't ground
Last edited by '01T4R; 08-11-2016 at 11:19 PM.
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08-08-2016, 06:52 PM
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#2
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08-08-2016, 08:43 PM
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#3
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same here.. checked the fuse and wiring and it all seems ok might be the dang horns
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08-08-2016, 09:41 PM
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#4
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It would be nice if either of you gave the year of your truck if you want specific advice. On '99+, the horn relay is built into the Body ECU on the back of the fuse panel by driver's knee. If I were troubleshooting this, I'd use a simple test light and trace the circuit from the horn back to see where the fault is. Here is the EWD--about as simple as it gets:
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-...emci/046hs.pdf
First, see if the fuse is live (don't just look at it, use the test light at both ends), and then see if green-red wire to Pin 1 of Plug B16 at the Body ECU gives ground when the button is pressed. If they do, then see if you get 12V+ out the black wire at Pin 8 of Plug 1E. If you don't, time to go dumpster diving for a new Body ECU or wire in a new, external relay because they cost a pantload new. If you do get 12V+ on the black wire, then it's the horn, the way they are grounded, or the black wire between the horns and the Body ECU.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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08-09-2016, 03:33 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
It would be nice if either of you gave the year of your truck if you want specific advice. On '99+, the horn relay is built into the Body ECU on the back of the fuse panel by driver's knee. If I were troubleshooting this, I'd use a simple test light and trace the circuit from the horn back to see where the fault is. Here is the EWD--about as simple as it gets:
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-...emci/046hs.pdf
First, see if the fuse is live (don't just look at it, use the test light at both ends), and then see if green-red wire to Pin 1 of Plug B16 at the Body ECU gives ground when the button is pressed. If they do, then see if you get 12V+ out the black wire at Pin 8 of Plug 1E. If you don't, time to go dumpster diving for a new Body ECU or wire in a new, external relay because they cost a pantload new. If you do get 12V+ on the black wire, then it's the horn, the way they are grounded, or the black wire between the horns and the Body ECU.
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Thanks for that! Gives me a starting point when I get a second free
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08-09-2016, 04:16 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '01T4R
Thanks for that! Gives me a starting point when I get a second free
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Oh, I should apologize to you. I didn't see the year in your user name. So yeah, what I posted works for you.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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08-09-2016, 04:21 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
Oh, I should apologize to you. I didn't see the year in your user name. So yeah, what I posted works for you.
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No worries....I assume the fuse is good since the hazards still work so looks like I'm onto the wiring crap.
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08-09-2016, 05:45 PM
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#8
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When you push on the steering wheel, do you hear the relay clicking?
Are the connectors at the horn itself clean and tight, and the proper polarity? My friend's horn died recently, and instead of listening to me, she took it to a shop, who proceeded to charge her $100 to reattach one of the power connectors on her horn that had shaken loose.
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08-09-2016, 05:51 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomSticks
When you push on the steering wheel, do you hear the relay clicking?
Are the connectors at the horn itself clean and tight, and the proper polarity? My friend's horn died recently, and instead of listening to me, she took it to a shop, who proceeded to charge her $100 to reattach one of the power connectors on her horn that had shaken loose.
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I DO hear the relay clicking. All connections are good at the horn...had an aftermarket one in, but when it stopped working first thing I did was wire that horn directly to the battery to confirm it worked, then replaced that with the stock horn. I haven't done any work to the truck between the last known use of the horn and now which is why I'm so confused.
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08-09-2016, 05:58 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '01T4R
I DO hear the relay clicking. All connections are good at the horn...had an aftermarket one in, but when it stopped working first thing I did was wire that horn directly to the battery to confirm it worked, then replaced that with the stock horn. I haven't done any work to the truck between the last known use of the horn and now which is why I'm so confused.
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Then it sounds like you need a new horn, unless I missed something.
Get one from an auto parts store, hook the wires up, see if it works.
Or hook up a volt meter to the horn connectors and make sure it's passing voltage when you press the steering wheel.
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08-09-2016, 06:03 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomSticks
Then it sounds like you need a new horn, unless I missed something.
Get one from an auto parts store, hook the wires up, see if it works.
Or hook up a volt meter to the horn connectors and make sure it's passing voltage when you press the steering wheel.
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Sorry if I wasn't clear, both the aftermarket and the stock horns work when directly wired to the battery so I know the horns themselves work
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08-09-2016, 06:11 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '01T4R
Sorry if I wasn't clear, both the aftermarket and the stock horns work when directly wired to the battery so I know the horns themselves work
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You're sure the polarity is right when you hook them up?
Try swapping the wires.
If still no, then just keep moving back along the system.
You said the relay is clicking, but no sound out of a known good horn. That means a wire problem between the relay and horn?
Put a meter on the horn connectors. Is the hot wire hot? Is the ground wire grounded?
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08-09-2016, 06:14 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomSticks
You're sure the polarity is right when you hook them up?
Try swapping the wires.
If still no, then just keep moving back along the system.
You said the relay is clicking, but no sound out of a known good horn. That means a wire problem between the relay and horn?
Put a meter on the horn connectors. Is the hot wire hot? Is the ground wire grounded?
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No swapping of wires to be done...factory plug onlyhas hot wire...horn grounds to body
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08-09-2016, 06:36 PM
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#14
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Just remember, a clicking relay is not always a good relay. It does tend to rule out the horn switch/clockspring, though. I prefer a test light to a meter for this work. Meters can read an apparent voltage through a bad connection that disappears when a multi-amp current is required.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 08-09-2016 at 06:44 PM.
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08-09-2016, 07:18 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
Just remember, a clicking relay is not always a good relay. It does tend to rule out the horn switch/clockspring, though. I prefer a test light to a meter for this work. Meters can read an apparent voltage through a bad connection that disappears when a multi-amp current is required.
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Since I'm very unfamiliar with electrical...what should I see on my meter when I check the ground at the ECU like you said in your earlier post....ZEROS?
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