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Old 08-25-2016, 12:06 PM #16
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The 4x inovation sliders come with mounting plates and gussets. already included, you just have to weld them togeter. I modified these slightly so that the sliders were easy to take off but still very strong. So I got some .120 wall pipe that allows the slider to be bolted on but be as strong as if they were welded. Jacking the truck up with the hi lift the sliders do flex some but I think it was because the bolts weren't tight. Here is the mount on the frame.
I had this idea in my mind. I think the problem with this is that it can eventually make the walk pipe stretch and make the sliders wobble around.

Can someone give their opinion on this option.
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:13 PM #17
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That was something I had concerns about was either the inner tube end crushing or the outer tube stretching. I figured if the inner tube starts crushing Ill weld a cap in to stop it but if there is someone else that has a similar setup and has some experience theyre willing to share that would be awesome.
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:10 PM #18
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Quote:
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That was something I had concerns about was either the inner tube end crushing or the outer tube stretching. I figured if the inner tube starts crushing Ill weld a cap in to stop it but if there is someone else that has a similar setup and has some experience theyre willing to share that would be awesome.
I love the idea. Especially removable rock sliders. Incase you need to with your rocker panels or something. How tight of the fit is it ? Got pics of it mounted ?
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:39 PM #19
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I dont have any pictures of them mounted yet since I had to repaint them. Once that is done I will have some so probably sometime saturday. When I was test fitting them they were about half an inch at the closest point to the rear door fender flare. Everywhere else was about an inch.
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Old 08-25-2016, 03:10 PM #20
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When you install them post some pics of you don't mind please. See I had to remove my rock sliders because a little bit of my rocker pannel rusted out. I couldn't get in with a welder or grinder to fix it. So I have to cut them of. But it worked out for better because I never welded plates, so i have plates ready to be welded. And #2 I want them more tucked under. But currently they just sitting in a shed painted with monstaliner waiting to be installed. But I'd like to have them bolted Incase I need fix rust.

Curious, when you grinder the paint if the frame. Did you spray anything so it would rust ? Assuming the welds aren't 100% water tight.
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Old 08-25-2016, 03:19 PM #21
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003T...9-L&ref=plSrch
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:34 PM #22
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Damn that stuff is pricey. What I did was once I had the weld points on the frame marked I ground just the little are I would need and I also primed the backside of the plates with ace rust stop. After I welded them on I sprayed the weld with some flat black spray paint. Hopefully the spray paint finish holds up alright on the frame and sliders. I was originally going to bed liner the sliders but figured that it would be kinda hard to touch up once they get drug across some rocks.
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Old 08-26-2016, 11:56 PM #23
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Swaybar End Links

Well tonight I decided to start working on the rear suspension to make it accommodate the lift sense I was waiting on parts for the limit straps. So after I installed the new OME 906 coils I could tell I was getting less stuff and droop than stock. At first I figured oh its the shocks, well to test that I disconnected the lower shock mount on both sides and tested the flex. It improved but was still was off of stock numbers by almost an inch. But after looking I could tell the swaybar links were binding up and limiting it. So tonight I extended them by about half an inch. I determined that number by seeing where the swaybar sat level at ride height. It was a pretty easy process of remove the links cut and sleeve them so they were slightly longer. It took about an hour and the hardest part was honestly getting the links off the bar. They arent perfect but they cost me nothing but time and should work untill I have the money to get a set of discos from MStudt. To fix the shock situation I am looking at getting a set of Rancho RS5000x shocks fitted for a stock fourth gen because the fourth gen shocks are almost 3 inches longer
Before
IMAG0205 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

After
IMAG0208 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

EDIT: the rear sway bar has since been removed for additional flex

Tomorrows to do list is:
Install the links, finish painting sliders, install limit straps in the front.
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Old 08-28-2016, 12:38 AM #24
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Finishing up suspension

Got off to a good start this morning by painting and installing the extended sway bar links. I then disconnected the shocks to go test the flex and found I gained two inches of droop. It is now enough that at full droop the rear coil will get loose in the perch. I also took measurments and determined that a stock 4th gen shock will work perfect for the rear to allow for maximum flex so those will be getting ordered soon.

Full droop
IMAG0210 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

Next up on the list was to square away the front suspension. So I took to installing the limit straps. It was a pretty straightforward job and I think it was successful but will have to do some more testing to be sure. By limiting the suspension to a max of 24 inches (hub to fender) of droop vs the 25 it had before I was able to make the max cv angle 16 vs 27 degrees. I also was able to test it out and didnt break any axles. The only complaint I have is that I wish I had of gone with a 9 inch strap vs a 10 inch. This is just because it would allow for more adjust ability sense right now I am at the max adjustment so I will probably change those out sometime depending on how this works.

All the parts lined up
IMAG0209 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

Definitely not my best welds but they should do
IMAG0211 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

Overall setup ( the strap is actually at a much smaller angle than it looks like)
IMAG0213 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr]
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Old 08-28-2016, 12:47 AM #25
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Sliders finally done

Last thing I wanted to get done today was finishing the sliders and getting them where they belong. After the first round of painting with ace satin black I decided they would need to be repainted. The finish was so soft that I could scrape it off with my finger nail. So I sanded them back to bare metal and put down two coats of Rustoleum hammered black. This stuff is hands down the best paint Ive ever used. It drys fast, looks like powdercoat, has a really hard finish, and covers really well. I was able to do two coats on both sliders plus the limit strap mounts with 1 can and I still have some left. So anyway here is the final fit and finish.

IMAG0220 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

IMAG0222 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:41 PM #26
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Cargo box remodel begins

In the interest of keeping things moving forward I've decided to start on redoing the cargo drawer system to better suite my needs. The drawers that I currently have were given to me by my uncle who originally had them in his first gen t4r. These things have seen a lot of use and look a little weathered but the design is a pretty solid one. The main problems I have with them currently is that
1) The drawers have no solid latch so they slide and bang around a lot
2) The entire frame sits too tall and takes away a lot of cargo room
3) The small pocket behind the seats is too small for really anything.

Here is the current design.
IMAG0226 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

So what Im planning on doing is lowering the whole thing so it is flush with the top of the wheel well, adding a sliding bolt latch on each drawer, enlarging the pocket behind the rear seats so it can be used to store recovery gear and other small things, and most likely adding carpet on the top and in the drawers to improve the overall fit and finish. Unfortunatly since I have school starting this week so progress will be slow but I hope to have this done before the end of next week.

If anybody that has built one of the storage systems has any advice on things that would be nice to add to these Im open to suggestions.

Here it is all taken apart.
IMAG0229 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:27 AM #27
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Checking thing off the list

Got a few things checked off this week. I sent the truck in for an alignment on on Wednesday so now it tracks nice and straight. I also got the rancho rs5000 rear shocks installed. The ones that I used are stock length off of a 4th gen. These things flex really well, good enough that at full droop the coils start to get pretty loose, so ill be extending the bump stops sometime to make sure I dont loose a spring. And despite the poor reviews from members on here I think these shocks ride really well, they're nice and firm but not harsh and they handle washboard great. I would definitely recommend them.

Before and after alignment
IMAG0234_1 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

Shocks installed
IMAG0236 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:36 AM #28
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Cargo box done and thoughts on towing

Also finished up the cargo box yesterday afternoon.
IMAG0246 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

IMAG0247 by Phoenix Black, on Flickr

Last major thing this weekend was towing 3000 lbs of rock with the runner. I was pleasantly surprised with how the truck handled it, it was definitely working the motor pretty hard and I was wishing I had the supercharger. But the best part was the trans temps never got over 185. The only time they were that high was when I was pulling a 2 mile 8% grade in first gear. Otherwise they hovered around 140. So the tranny cooler is working perfect.

Also found that my k&n filter has been leaking for over a year
I never really liked the design of the filter because the cage just never wanted to stay on. But apparently it has been leaking around the bottom corners because the filter just doesn't fit in the box right. I checked and I do have the right one. So this pos will be going back and getting replaced by an afe.
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:38 AM #29
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Where did you source all the parts for the limit straps ?

Can you take a pic of the slider inside the tube ? Does it radle or move when you drive?
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:06 PM #30
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The mounts and extended shock mount bolts came from sonoran steel, the straps and clevises came from poly performance.

Havent heard a peep from the sliders other than rocks bouncing off them. I think I may add a plate to the mounts to tie into the bottom of the frame though because when I lift the truck with them I can see it still flexing the frame.
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