08-16-2016, 02:12 PM
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#1
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Oil Leak Driver's Side
Afternoon y'all--another slow oil leak I'm trying to track down. I've solved rear camshaft plug leak, VC gaskets, replaced all my front cam and crank seals when TB/WP was done.
Noticed a slow creep of oil down near where the dipstick tube meets the block. Kind of running around that apron and noticed a bit around where the oil pan meets the block. Looking through the wheel well, it seems like it is either weeping around the oil pan gasket, oil filter (I'm reasonably sure this is not the cause--I clean the mating surface thoroughly before replacing it every time), or the oil pressure sensor just forward of the filter.
My reading seems to suggest that oil pan gasket leaks are pretty rare and a pain in the ass to fix.
Do I have to drop the transmission to pull the pan? This is a 2wd.
Or is the oil pressure sensor a common leak point? It really looks like it could be leaking from there, but I'm confused at how it would move forward so much to the portion around the dipstick.
Thoughts?
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08-16-2016, 02:58 PM
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#2
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Did you silicone on the round part gaskets on the valve cover ? Just curious
Make sure you don't have double o ring on your oil filter. As in the o ring stuck to the engine.
I don't see how a oil pan replacement would be difficult in 2wd. There's no front diff
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08-16-2016, 03:12 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kolelt
Did you silicone on the round part gaskets on the valve cover ? Just curious
Make sure you don't have double o ring on your oil filter. As in the o ring stuck to the engine.
I don't see how a oil pan replacement would be difficult in 2wd. There's no front diff
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Yeah, I checked the oil filter oring. FIPG went around the halfmoons and the rear camshaft plugs as well. It's not a significant leak, but it is enough to slowly run down the outside of the oil pan. Nothing on driveway, nor does it need top-up.
Just trying to entertain some other less-obvious options. That oil pressure sensor looks like it could be the spot and I dunno how hard it is to seal or replace.
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08-16-2016, 04:15 PM
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#4
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Clean everything off with brake clean and start fresh.
Could be residual from when you changed the filter?
Oil pressure switch usually has some type of tread sealant on it, or maybe its leaking internally through the connector?
Maybe the oring on the end of the dipstick tube is bad?
Just try to clean everything and watch that area like a hawk...
Clean and drive for a few miles or just idle in driveway.
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08-16-2016, 05:26 PM
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#5
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There is also an o-ring on the dipstick tube. I had a little leak there, but like yours I still have more leak to find in the same area.
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08-16-2016, 07:03 PM
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#6
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Also there is a gasket under the oil fill cap as well.
Take a pic and post if you can.
Haven't gotten down to Charleston to see my uncle and friends so the 4runner is probably long gone from LKQ.
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08-18-2016, 08:13 AM
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#7
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So after hosing the area down with Brakleen and drying it off before driving 55mi to work this morning, it really looks like its seeping around the o-ring for the dipstick tube.
Anyone have experience replacing this, or experience a leak in the same spot? Looks like a really annoying spot to get to.
I'm trying to decide if I want to let it be a slow bit of rust proofing--might be too anal for that.
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Last edited by LeeMajors; 08-18-2016 at 08:15 AM.
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08-18-2016, 10:25 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeMajors
So after hosing the area down with Brakleen and drying it off before driving 55mi to work this morning, it really looks like its seeping around the o-ring for the dipstick tube.
Anyone have experience replacing this, or experience a leak in the same spot? Looks like a really annoying spot to get to.
I'm trying to decide if I want to let it be a slow bit of rust proofing--might be too anal for that.
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It's easy. Remove the one nut mounting it to the alternator bracket. This is how my 99 and 2000 are. May be different on other models. The whole tube should come loose and be able to be pulled up and out. The oring should be on the tube.
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08-18-2016, 02:00 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRZEE2000TR4LTD
It's easy. Remove the one nut mounting it to the alternator bracket. This is how my 99 and 2000 are. May be different on other models. The whole tube should come loose and be able to be pulled up and out. The oring should be on the tube.
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Sweet. I'll give it a closer look. Hope this fixes it.
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2015 RAV4 2.5L 75k
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08-18-2016, 02:31 PM
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#10
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Sub'd because this sounds similar to mine too. Hope this worked for you! Anyone have the part number for that o-ring? I'm also going to replace my oil fill cap as well because I'm 99% sure that's leaking on mine.
Cheers!
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08-18-2016, 03:08 PM
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#11
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Part# for O ring: 96721-19010
Double check with local dealer..
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01 SR5 - 187k+/- 285 BFG A/T KO2 - 99 talls & front Trekmasters / Rear KYB - Hella fogs - Taco Mod - Fixed gaping hole in frame {SOLD}
02 Taco - 197k +/- BFG A/T KO2 285s + rims from 4Runner - saving up for suspension - House gets priority over Taco (for now)
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08-18-2016, 03:30 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfranck1
Part# for O ring: 96721-19010
Double check with local dealer..
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Thanks! It might be obvious to others, but I should drain the oil before doing this or is the oil level below where that o-ring lives?
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2004 Sport Edition V8. 3" OME lift. 5th Gen Brakes. 285/70 Duratracs. JBA UCAs. SCS Ray10s. DT Headers.
1997 4-Runner Limited w/ factory locker. Totaled in February 2018. Still miss it.
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08-18-2016, 03:42 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atalarico
Thanks! It might be obvious to others, but I should drain the oil before doing this or is the oil level below where that o-ring lives?
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The oil would be below the that level, so you probably don't have to.
But if the o ring doesn't come out as a whole piece,
I would definitely change oil then because some pieces of the o ring might have made it into the oil pan and you don't want loose pieces stirring around the oil system..
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01 SR5 - 187k+/- 285 BFG A/T KO2 - 99 talls & front Trekmasters / Rear KYB - Hella fogs - Taco Mod - Fixed gaping hole in frame {SOLD}
02 Taco - 197k +/- BFG A/T KO2 285s + rims from 4Runner - saving up for suspension - House gets priority over Taco (for now)
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08-29-2016, 07:29 AM
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#14
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Alright, y'all. O-ring replaced and that is no longer leaking--but I think I have seepage from my oil pump also.
So, I'm thinking at this point it probably isn't worth fixing. It's seeping between the oil pump assembly and block, it appears. No difference in oil levels, just super annoying to my OCD sensibilities.
Probably just switch to Maxlife and ride it on out unless anyone has any other thoughts?
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08-29-2016, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeMajors
Alright, y'all. O-ring replaced and that is no longer leaking--but I think I have seepage from my oil pump also.
So, I'm thinking at this point it probably isn't worth fixing. It's seeping between the oil pump assembly and block, it appears. No difference in oil levels, just super annoying to my OCD sensibilities.
Probably just switch to Maxlife and ride it on out unless anyone has any other thoughts?
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I have a 21 yr old sedan and use synthetic engine oil. I also had these small leaks not so much to drip but messes up the lower portions of the engine. I just for the hell of it used bars engine oil stop leak. I only put in 4 OZ not the complete 12 OZ . well the leaks stopped. on old vehicles best to use this stuff rather than rip things apart with these type small weeps of oil. It also worked on the oil cooler hoses at the crimps. very surprised.
rubber shrinks and hardens as it ages this product has been working for several years for me I payed like $3 USD..
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