Picking it up tomorrow and looking at suspension upgrades as it's sitting at about 155k on stock gear. I have researched all over the place and have a questions I can't seem to find the answers, figured you guys would know off top of your heads so here goes:

My truck by factory, sits lower than all other years w/4WD? Trying to decide between Bilstein 4600 or 5100. Really liked the 4600s on my Limited I had, but would like at least 1.5" lift on this SR5. Will the 4600 give me a lift from factory and will I need to get new springs if so?

If I get the 5100s, do they ride similar to 4600 on the road and will I have to get new springs? If so, what are the correct size, and sweet spot regarding brand vs quality? I plan on wheeling a bit, no rocks or anything crazy though.

Thanks guys.

Shocks don't give you a lift, springs and spacers do.

For the amount of lift your talking, maybe 99 Tall Highlander coils for the front which would give you around 1" of lift.

For the rear, OME 906s in the rear for a 2" lift. The 906s are stiffer than stock so the ride will be a little rougher. But, it will afford you to load it down with gear and not sag a bunch so it's a trade-off. I wish I would have put 906s on my own rig, but I chose 99 rear coils instead.

Go with Bilstein 5100s all around.

And, I have a video for you that shows installing these exact components on another member's rig. You can totally do this yourself and save yourself some money. Just get a buddy to help you.

Wow thanks for all the info! Where is the "best place" to buy these coils? 99 rear coils all around would still give a lift of at least 1.5"? I don't plan on loading the truck down super heavy, most of the time I'll be on paved roads.

This is not entirely true. Adjustable 5100's do give you lift on stock coils if you raise adjust them.

You're right. I forgot with the 5100's, you have different settings to put the snap ring onto for different lift amounts. Thanks for the correction.

Go for the 5100s. They ride great, and can easily support a bigger lift if you decide to in the future.

Here is my 2002 as well:
5100s all around (only on #2 perch setting out of 5 in the front)
Tundra springs in front, and OME 890s in the rear

The springs aren't sagging yet, so what it be ok to go ahead and put the 5100s on without upgrading them?

With 155k miles and 14 years, I can assure you they're sagging.

My advice, baseline the truck:

New 99 OEM coils, front and rear from Camelback Toyota
New 99 OEM Tokico shocks/struts from C-back
New OEM LBJ's from C-back
New radiator from C-back
New steering rack bushings from Amazon
ALL fluids flushed, including trans

You'll gain about 1.5" of lift, the truck will ride and handle like a dream. If you ever tire of that lift, you'll be able to sell them here on the forum for ~75% of what you paid.

Finally, you don't need a spring compressor to change the front coils. I have a safer, and easier technique for you when you get to that stage. Just PM me when you're ready.

Tokico are a bit more expensive than the Bilstein aren't they? I'm trying be as frugal as possible without buying crap. You're right about the age/mileage though, I'm sure the springs are sagging they just don't look it. I'm doing all the maint stuff this weekend too. Thanks for the input!

What would happen if I just put the Bilstein 5100s on and set to the middle setting without new coils?

$175 ea vs $89, so yes a touch more.

Regarding your 2nd question, spring preload is spring preload. You'll get lift, at the expense of ride quality. Some guys run stock coils with 5100's on 5th notch and get 2.5" of lift. Ride is far too harsh, and non-compliant for me, but it's certainly affordable.

I hate doing these lifts twice. You'll be disappointed with old, saggy coils overly compressed by new 5100's. Maybe just save up until you can do it right?

Yeah I may, but this squishy worn out suspension is KILLING me lol.

Please explain how to do that. I'll be doing this soon. Have all the parts ready to go.

Absalom's Super Wacky Crazy Strut/Coil Removal Technique (patent pending)

1. Jack up front end
2. Safely support wth jack stands
3. Raise LCA 1" with floor jack
4. Remove 4 LBJ bolts
5. Remove center strut nut from top of strut
6. Remove all but 1 strut mounting nuts
7. Detach lower sway bar from LCA
8. Mark with whiteout, the LCA cam's positions
9. Loosen LCA cams
10. Lower floor jack that is supporting LCA
11. LCA falls to floor revealing a non-compressed spring
12. Remove final strut bolt from body
13. Remove lower strut mount bolt and remove assembly

Disclaimer: It goes without saying that I know nothing about cars and the systems contained within. By following the above advice, you hold me harmless in the event of injury or accident.

I did it much easier than that. After messing with a spring compressor that didn't fit into the wheel well anyway (waste of time) I did this technique. All it takes is the long bar from the jack set and an extra pair of hands.

no need for a spring compressor

Easy peasy.