03-25-2019, 09:05 PM
|
#76
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,167
Real Name: 3 Bears
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,167
Real Name: 3 Bears
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wedgy
I kept the front section of the junk yard rack so the stock plastic caps fit in the front and the holes in the new extension piece lines up to where they didn't hit anything in the sunroof. I added a hole to the new rail where it butts up against the front end of the existing rail. There are three M6-1.0 nutserts/rivnuts in each new rail section, two use the stock holes and I drilled one at the rear of the added rail. I sealed around the rivnut/nutsert and the threads with RTV.
You can see that the full length of the roof is not flat so I have added a 1"x1"x 6' bar to each side of the rail and "contoured" them to match the roof line. The rack will sit on top of the bar then bolt to the roof rails using M6-1.0 ~3" long bolts to the existing sliding nuts that are in the stock roof rails, as the OP did in his design. I will try to get it together & some pictures later tonight.
Added some pictures, bad ones as it's almost dark, one is of the rails butted together. The rack is just resting on top of the 1"x1" right now but it conforms to the roof curve pretty well, it will fit perfect when I bolt it down. There are 2 extensions and in its position it just clears the tailgate spoiler and that's where the front ends up, about the same pitch as the windshield.
|
people should read everything in a post THAT INCLUDES ME...DUHHH
I have been wondering if this set up would interfere with the sunroof and asked... felt I did not get a reply.....did I read all the answers or posts fully....NOPE...no excuse
today I picked up the roof rails and one cross bar to do this set up...when at the wrecking yard looked hard to see if it would interfere...did not look like it...but might be near....then re-read this thread and your posts....duhh...you answered it many days ago....my bad
thanks for your suggestions, I like this idea, and one I will go with
__________________
2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
03-25-2019, 10:52 PM
|
#77
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Southern California
Posts: 472
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Southern California
Posts: 472
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears
people should read everything in a post THAT INCLUDES ME...DUHHH
I have been wondering if this set up would interfere with the sunroof and asked... felt I did not get a reply.....did I read all the answers or posts fully....NOPE...no excuse
today I picked up the roof rails and one cross bar to do this set up...when at the wrecking yard looked hard to see if it would interfere...did not look like it...but might be near....then re-read this thread and your posts....duhh...you answered it many days ago....my bad
thanks for your suggestions, I like this idea, and one I will go with
|
There are actually 4 rivnuts on each side, 3 use the stock holes in the added rail section and I drilled one in the rear of the rail where it butts against the front of existing one. One of the photos shows a washer that I ground the sides off to fit in the rail channel on the added hole.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-15-2019, 01:07 PM
|
#78
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 22
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 22
|
Pics? Can we get more pics of the whole truck from different angles?
I really like what you’ve done and would love to see more pics of the entire truck from different angles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wedgy
I kept the front section of the junk yard rack so the stock plastic caps fit in the front and the holes in the new extension piece lines up to where they didn't hit anything in the sunroof. I added a hole to the new rail where it butts up against the front end of the existing rail. There are three M6-1.0 nutserts/rivnuts in each new rail section, two use the stock holes and I drilled one at the rear of the added rail. I sealed around the rivnut/nutsert and the threads with RTV.
You can see that the full length of the roof is not flat so I have added a 1"x1"x 6' bar to each side of the rail and "contoured" them to match the roof line. The rack will sit on top of the bar then bolt to the roof rails using M6-1.0 ~3" long bolts to the existing sliding nuts that are in the stock roof rails, as the OP did in his design. I will try to get it together & some pictures later tonight.
Added some pictures, bad ones as it's almost dark, one is of the rails butted together. The rack is just resting on top of the 1"x1" right now but it conforms to the roof curve pretty well, it will fit perfect when I bolt it down. There are 2 extensions and in its position it just clears the tailgate spoiler and that's where the front ends up, about the same pitch as the windshield.
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
08-26-2019, 11:03 PM
|
#79
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Supra
Here is what I used
I got it from Home Depot.
|
I was just wondering what gauge you used for the L bracket. I see you got 1/20 for the square tube. I felt the 1/16 for the L bracket but it flexed a lot, so I grabbed the 1/8, but it was almost $40 per bracket. Of you can remember, let me know, because 1/16 will hold, I would much rather return this and save some money.
Thanks!
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
12-15-2019, 09:54 PM
|
#80
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Ventura
Posts: 44
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Ventura
Posts: 44
|
Very nice OP! What do you use to prevent the awning from “hanging” off the bars? Seems like it wouldn’t be solid using ubolts on a round bar!
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-21-2020, 03:06 PM
|
#81
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2017
Location: West Desert Utah
Posts: 30
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: West Desert Utah
Posts: 30
|
Looks like a great rack for the money. I read the negative Amazon reviews, and I think what many people fail to realize is inexpensive racks usually aren't great right out of the box. They need tweaking--like stainless hardware upgrades, finish sanded and a Rustolium paint applied (or powder coating). Same with my cheap light bar off of Amazon. I ran a bead of clear silicone around the lens, as I know over time the cheaper lights are prone to leaking.
__________________
1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited, 4WD, Center Locking Differential
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-09-2020, 11:23 PM
|
#82
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1
|
I know this is an old thread, but just wanted to know... is there any way to mount to the original rails without crossbars or do you have to drill new holes in the roof to fit it?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-10-2020, 09:56 AM
|
#83
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western US
Posts: 281
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western US
Posts: 281
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Conner__hayes
I know this is an old thread, but just wanted to know... is there any way to mount to the original rails without crossbars or do you have to drill new holes in the roof to fit it?
|
No new holes need to be drilled in the roof on the vehicle, but you do need to drill holes in the Curt roof rack to mount it to the stock roof rails. The only reason I added the square tubing was to gain clearance so the rack wasn't sitting on top of the roof body. Its possible to simply eliminate the crossbars and directly mount it to the rail, but you'll be pressed up against the roof body in the center of the roof. Adding 1" square tubing corrected this and does not come in contact. Regardless you use the stock slider nuts in the rail track as your mounting points. No new holes need to be drilled. Hopefully that answers your question.
__________________
97 Charged, lifted, armored, geared, locked SR5.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-24-2021, 02:19 PM
|
#84
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,167
Real Name: 3 Bears
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,167
Real Name: 3 Bears
|
anyone figure out what the stock slider nuts are and/or do I need to order them ?
Sadly this winter I rolled my 4runner, fortunately my rack and yakima space box were not on it. ( skis in winter/fishing poles in summer)
SO now I am starting over with a 2001 and need to get my curt extended rack mounted soon, as fishing and camping time is here.
Just gonna make some mounts using square tube mounted to stock rack, run long, with foot pads up front. is 1/20 thickness aluminum square tube too thin? local not much available.... 1/16th is avail at near 4x the price.
this current 4runner has the rails, but thats it, all the corssbars, and rub strips are gone, as well as the "nuts" that slide in the rails and the one and only local junk yard is NOT a pick and pull.
__________________
2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
Last edited by 3bears; 04-24-2021 at 02:28 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|