Over the weekend, I replaced the flex circuit board on the back of the gauge cluster. As I said in the last post, I was getting random P1780 CEL codes and some random turn signal issues (left turn signal turning on reverse lights? awesome!). Some googling led me to believe that it was happening in the gauge cluster.

Start with the cluster out, remove the white cover:


Carefully remove the rear PCB, the lower flat cable connectors have little clips that have to be pulled up to remove the cables:


Remove all the bulbs. There are 3 types, so keep them organized!


Mine is a '99 SR5. Make sure you order the correct part (there are multiple choices through the years/trims!):






Assembly is the reverse of removal... All back together:


While I was in there, I figured it would be good to replace the clear meter cover. This is the same over all years/trims.

Old:


None:


New:




It took about 8 tries to get it dust free inside the meter housing. Have patience and some air duster for the process...

The rest of the suspension parts have shipped from Wheelers (Bilstein 5100's + supporting parts). I'll be ordering sliders this weekend with the Shrockworks group buy...

Oh, and the starter is acting up. Time for new contacts/plunger! I don't really want it to leave my wife stranded somewhere...

-Charlie

Nice. Did that clear the codes, or I guess, did you stop getting them?

Not sure yet. No codes yet, but it was only happening maybe once a week since the weather has warmed up.

-Charlie

I had the 'pleasure' of taking my old '03 WRX wagon to the scrap yard yesterday... I rolled it on the track a couple years ago and finally finished stripping all the worthwhile parts off of it. All that was left was 1340lbs of steel, basically. Engine, transmission, rear diff, interior, suspension/wheels/tires, and front clip are all removed.



If you trust the Uhaul quoted dry weight for the trailer, the total load was just over 3000lb. It felt pretty good towing down the freeway and wasn't ridiculously underpowered. I'd probably feel ok towing at least 4k lbs with good trailer brakes, based on this experience.

Doing a bit of math, it also means the 4Runner is around 4300-4350 lbs now, with the armor that I have on it so far.

-Charlie

Nice. I need to find a shop with corner scales to look at weight distribution

If you don't mind, what did the scrap yard pay you for the WRX? I might have to do similar if I buy a donor for my 4WD swap

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They were paying $80/ton on car body scrap. I got $47.xx for the 1340lbs of steel that was left. It basically paid for the trailer rental and gas for the trip, and that's it. I could have paid somebody to pick it up, but this way I know the title is handled correctly, etc. Also, I wasn't really in the mood to have a sketch scrap metal guy come by the house and cut it up...

My 4WD parts truck was dropped off at an auto parts dismantler. Any $$$ went to the friend that dropped it off, so I don't know how much that was worth (it had most of the engine parts inside the truck, etc.). I'd expect a 4Runner minus drivetrain to be closer to 2.5-3k lbs.

-Charlie

Another update - still code free. We may have a winner on the gauge cluster fix.

I am so itching to do my suspension install... It will be patiently waiting for the house project to be finished - both my time and driveway space are limited until that is all done!

-Charlie

Still code free. I'd say the gauge cluster circuit board for sure was the fix.

In other updates:

Starter contacts have been replaced. The starter that was on there was a Denso reman from some years ago (not sure exactly, I'd have to check the maintenance log). I was able to get the starter out through the wheel well opening. I used some brake clean to clean it and it stripped the paint of the motor. Oops. So, the motor body has been repainted black.









Steering rack, inner and outer tie rods replaced. All OEM parts. The rack was leaking and original. The outer tie rods are also probably original. During the 4WD swap there was some thread damage done to one of them, so it was time. I had to transfer over my poly rack bushings, which turned out to be pretty easy off the truck.





And the fun part... Suspension time! I have had a set of '14 4Runner springs for at least a year sitting in the garage, along with some Bilstein 5100's for a few months, just sitting there taunting me...

First, I found what I think is the cause of the clunk/pop in the front that I was getting recently:



Disconnect your Addco front bar if you go wheeling...

So, let's get on with it... For the front, my goal is/was to get as much out of the stock front arms as possible. I took some extra time to do this with the front. I figure (and I could be wrong!) that I should go with the softest front springs possible, which ended up being my stock front ('99 2WD springs), maybe. Some measurements:

'97 4WD springs: 16mm wire, 9 wraps
'14 4WD springs: 17mm wire, 9 wraps
'99 2WD springs: 16mm wire, 8 wraps

I didn't get free-length measurements, but probably should have. The 2WD springs barely have to be compressed to fit in the shocks, so I figured they would be more 'progressive' because they aren't pre-loaded as much. I had a couple different top plate spacers (1/4" and 3/8") to mix and match to get the extended length of the shocks to match the max droop of the upper arm (stock, droop is limited by the upper ball joint without the shock in place).

Turns out, with 4Runner 5100's (and the 4600's they replaced) that a 3/8" top plate spacer is all you can fit before the upper ball joint is the limiting factor. The shocks are about 1/4" shorter than full droop, so that pretty much maxes that out. I checked full compression of the shocks and the shock shaft has a little less than 1/2" compression when the truck weight is on the bump stop with no springs:



So, with upper arms, you might be able to get another 1/2" to 3/4" of wheel travel before shock damage occurs with 'stock' length shocks. As it stands, hub center to wheel well measurements after all was said and done:

Full extension: 25.25"
Full compression: 16.75"
At ride height: 21.25"

I only 'lifted' the front a little over an inch from stock. That is a 3/8" top plate spacer and the 5100's on the second perch and using springs meant for a 2WD 4Runner. Out of the 8.5" of travel available, I currently have 4" of droop and 4.5" of compression. I was a bit surprised when I first measured the new ride height (~22"), but I realized I forgot to put my front armor back on for that measurement. Back on, it dropped that much!

Installed:


Oh, and somehow one of my lower bolts decided to gall. I have no idea why, no rust or anything... Had to cut it off. At least I have extras laying around from the parts truck.



On to the rear. The plan was to stiffen it and lift it with '14 4Runner rear springs and 10mm trim packers. Spring measurements and pics:

'99 2WD rear: 13mm wire, 6.5 wraps
'14 4WD rear: 16.25mm wire, 6.25 wraps



That makes the 5th gen springs MUCH stiffer than the stock springs. This is a good thing - the 5100's are valved for stiffer springs and the stock springs are WAYYY too soft. I ended up at 22" in the rear, which is right where I wanted to be.

Rear shock install 'secret' is to use an offset wrench for the nut and a hex/allen driver on a ratchet. It still takes a while, sadly:





And, the before and after comparison:



Overall, very subtle. I've only done a quick shake-down run since I only did a quick eyeball alignment. The front rear balance is opposite what it used to be. The front is pretty plush and the rear is (so far) nicely stiff. I'm not 100% happy with the fit of the 5th gen rear springs (too large diameter top and bottom, though they do fit) so I will probably change over to OME 906's in the rear, which should have the same ride height with the trim packer removed.

I also installed some front swaybar disconnects from JKS, meant for a Jeep XJ (I think). It wasn't at all bolt-in and I'll do a write up if they turn out to work well...

Ok, that's it for the wall of pics/text.

-Charlie

Alignment completed!

With such a conservative front height (basically just over new '99 talls), it was easy and everything is in spec with lots of caster:



Still don't have many miles on the new setup though, so I don't have a ton of driving impressions. Also, I'm pretty proud of my rough driveway alignment (no measurements, all by eye). I'm used to cars with about -1* camber, so I was off more than I should have been there...

-Charlie

Glad I re-discovered your thread, when I first picked my truck up I briefly checked out 4wd conversions and saw your build. I decided against until I recently came across a local partial swap for $250. I would have been super annoyed that I missed the sheet metal aspect if not for your thread, did not even think about that.

Glad I could help. I forget about the sheet metal differences myself! That's the one where you really want access to a parts truck. A battery powered cutoff wheel and a trip to a junkyard would work too though, I suppose.

-Charlie

Also, suspension wise, as a long time car guy I can't say enough good things about the ToyTec Boss kit. If it is in your budget I would highly recommend, so simple and everything just works.

I wasn't unhappy with the ride of my OEM 99 tall/5100 but I wanted to lift the truck. Everything else was piecing together parts to get the lift I wanted (3"+). I actually ended up pulling the 5100 setup off almost as soon as it went on in lieu of the Boss setup. I ended up adding a 5 link adjustable control arm setup in the rear and SPC control arms up front as well and the ride is amazing. I got the lift I wanted, I can tow my boat just fine and the quality/ease was great.

You put way too much work into this truck to have a saggy ass end

Been a while since an update. My AC button decided to break - that's a really easy fix. Just get the new part (sorry, don't have the PN) and the old one just pulls out and the new one goes in place.

Also, the low fan speed setting stopped working. That means a bad blower motor resistor. Also a pretty easy swap, though you do have to remove the glove compartment to get to it.



That part should work for the manual AC trucks. Not sure for the auto AC trucks...

Also, my Shrockworks sliders arrived:



I need to finish cutting off the 2WD transmission crossmember mounts before it they can go on. I'm planning on welding them on, even though they can be bolted on.

Otherwise, I've been spending all my free time on house projects, so not much has changed.

-Charlie

6 months later! Sliders finally installed. Welded on, as was the plan:











They clear the body and front mudflap by around 1/2" all around. I'll need to trim the inner bit of the rear flare to clear.

I also did another oil change. Just passed 290k miles!

The kids (ha!, in their early 20's) that were on the February desert trip put together a video of the cheap car destruction. We buy a <$500 and race, jump, shoot it, etc. (then drag it back out and get most of the $$$ back in recyling). Its a little too artsy, but it does show that a normal car can do plenty of crazy things and (generally) survive. The only fail was a popped bead from running the tire pressures a bit lower than we should have.
YouTube

You can spot the 4Runner in a couple shots if you know what you are looking for.

-Charlie

I'm not the only one with house projects I see. Sliders look good Charlie. Didn't know you have welding skills. Doesn't surprise me though...

Fun use of those vehicles, and you get back most of your play funds too!

What's next up for you, 4Runner-wise?