09-19-2016, 12:06 AM
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#1
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Adjustable rear upper control arms
Just finished installing my lift with OME 861's in the rear and noticed my pinion angle is not the best. I have the SS HD lower links and want to add some adjustable uppers to fix the angle.
The only ones I can find are the Toytec with heims on both end. I'd prefer to have at least one end have a bushing.
Who makes an adjustable rear UCA with a bushing at one or both ends?
Thanks
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1998 Limited 3.4, Auto/4X4, Desert Dune, Deck Plate Mod/Isr, ABS Mod, DRL Mod, Blue Wire Mod, B&M 70264, Temp Gauge, Scangauge, Geolander 265/75R16's, FJ80 wheels.
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09-19-2016, 12:59 AM
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#2
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You should read what Steve at Sonoran Steel says here:
4Runner/FJ Crusier Extreme Duty DOM Lower Links - $310.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts
Quote:
Why don't you make custom upper links?
The best replacement for the upper links is new stock upper links. The reason why is that you can not make either the lower or the upper links longer than that are, most critical on a 3rd Gen 4Runner, because the upper link brackets on the axle tube already clear the Panhard/trac/lateral bar cross-member by millimeters. Longer links will collide on compression causing catastrophic damage. The upper links will never get hit by rocks and the stock units side twist quite well. The small diameter solid stock will also twist like a torsion bar.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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09-19-2016, 01:08 AM
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#3
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I have over 3" of lift in rear and I'm running stick length UCA and LCA from
@ MStudt
and I'm great. I mean, if you want run adjustable. But what are you really going to adjust ?
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97 3.4 JDM/5 Speed swap/eLocker Swap/ICON CDC all around/+more.....
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09-19-2016, 07:50 AM
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#4
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official vendor
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official vendor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearded Cabbage
Just finished installing my lift with OME 861's in the rear and noticed my pinion angle is not the best. I have the SS HD lower links and want to add some adjustable uppers to fix the angle.
The only ones I can find are the Toytec with heims on both end. I'd prefer to have at least one end have a bushing.
Who makes an adjustable rear UCA with a bushing at one or both ends?
Thanks
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I stay low key about making these, but I do make them. I run a poly bushing on 1 end, and a Summit Flex Joint on the other. PM me if this is something you'd like to discuss.
I'm also working with All-Pro to see if they want to bring these back for a 1 time purchase in form of a Group Buy for us.
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09-19-2016, 09:17 AM
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#5
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"Longer links will collide on compression causing catastrophic damage."
So everyone driving adjustable uppers is driving a ticking time bomb?
I Don't think they need to be adjusted much longer, 1/8 or 1/4 inch at most.
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1998 Limited 3.4, Auto/4X4, Desert Dune, Deck Plate Mod/Isr, ABS Mod, DRL Mod, Blue Wire Mod, B&M 70264, Temp Gauge, Scangauge, Geolander 265/75R16's, FJ80 wheels.
Last edited by Bearded Cabbage; 09-19-2016 at 11:57 PM.
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09-19-2016, 09:39 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearded Cabbage
"Longer links will collide on compression causing catastrophic damage."
So everyone driving adjustable uppers is driving a ticking time bomb?
I Don't think they need to me adjusted much longer, 1/8 or 1/4 inch at most.
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Most people with them don't adjust them because it's not needed in most lifts up to 5". It's also why not to many people make them. Small market. Those heavy duty coils unloaded giving you 6" rear lift I'm guessing. So you might need to adjust.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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09-19-2016, 09:46 AM
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#7
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official vendor
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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Real Name: Mike
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official vendor
Join Date: Aug 2013
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Real Name: Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearded Cabbage
"Longer links will collide on compression causing catastrophic damage."
So everyone driving adjustable uppers is driving a ticking time bomb?
I Don't think they need to me adjusted much longer, 1/8 or 1/4 inch at most.
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That is absolutely not true (to an extent).
Of course making links that are an inch longer will cause major issues. Making links that are an 1/8" will not. I'm running upper and lower links that are an 1/8", and have had no issues. I've make links for people that were also longer, and no issues.
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09-19-2016, 10:26 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt
That is absolutely not true (to an extent).
Of course making links that are an inch longer will cause major issues. Making links that are an 1/8" will not. I'm running upper and lower links that are an 1/8", and have had no issues. I've make links for people that were also longer, and no issues.
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It's absolutely true!! He states 1/8th to 1/4" longer is fine. Anything more can cause issues. SS had been testing these rigs before any lifts where produced. He actually knows his shit
__________________
1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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09-19-2016, 11:00 AM
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#9
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official vendor
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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official vendor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt
That is absolutely not true (to an extent).
Of course making links that are an inch longer will cause major issues. Making links that are an 1/8" will not. I'm running upper and lower links that are an 1/8", and have had no issues. I've make links for people that were also longer, and no issues.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
It's absolutely true!! He states 1/8th to 1/4" longer is fine. Anything more can cause issues. SS had been testing these rigs before any lifts where produced. He actually knows his shit
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To an extend it's true.
Having links a 1/8" longer that you make on your own will not hurt anything, and are perfectly fine to run. So I guess his statement is about 50% true.
Longer links "could" cause failure, but not 100% of the time.
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Last edited by MStudt; 09-19-2016 at 12:12 PM.
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09-19-2016, 03:15 PM
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#10
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Since I posted the issue, and I happen to have an assembled frame with upper links in place sitting outside, I took a look. Even allowing for some side-to-side flex, there is certainly room for a longer bar, maybe even as much as ½".
It's a big pic, so I posted a link:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/11...=w1163-h872-no
The problem is the bracket tower on the diff fully surrounds the link-end, and eats almost all of that space. It gets tight. I'd say ¼" is too much to be safe.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 09-19-2016 at 03:31 PM.
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09-19-2016, 09:59 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
Since I posted the issue, and I happen to have an assembled frame with upper links in place sitting outside, I took a look. Even allowing for some side-to-side flex, there is certainly room for a longer bar, maybe even as much as ½"...
...The problem is the bracket tower on the diff fully surrounds the link-end, and eats almost all of that space. It gets tight. I'd say ¼" is too much to be safe.
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Just to clarify, are you saying 1/4" longer than stock for the rear UCA is too long and something less like 1/8" longer than stock is safer?
Or did you mean that anything up to 1/4" longer than stock is ok?
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1. Black 2002 SR5 4x4 5vz: Front Toytec Ultimate coilovers/eibach 600#, SPC UCA, durobumps Rear Bil5100/Superflex, SS adjustable panhard, PCK, durobumps Body Lift 2" 4crawler Tires 315/75/16 BFG KO2 Wheels SCS F5 Matte black 16x8 3.5bs Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (no frame drilling)
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09-19-2016, 10:04 PM
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#12
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I think if you want to upgrade rear control arms. Just go with fixed. But they will be stronger with better bushing. Not to mention rebuildable bushing.
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09-19-2016, 11:09 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourfive
Just to clarify, are you saying 1/4" longer than stock for the rear UCA is too long and something less like 1/8" longer than stock is safer?
Or did you mean that anything up to 1/4" longer than stock is ok?
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I'm saying less is safer. 1/4" looks iffy. I just don't know how much side flex there is on turns or sides of hills and the distance is less to the outboard side of each link.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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09-19-2016, 11:57 PM
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#14
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Thanks for the replies everyone. A simple question often come back with many responses much more in depth than originally thought.
I'm going to pull the rear driveshaft this week and drive for a day in 4H and see if it changes anything. If it goes away, I'm guessing its the rear shaft. If it doesn't, then, well I've got other issues.
__________________
1998 Limited 3.4, Auto/4X4, Desert Dune, Deck Plate Mod/Isr, ABS Mod, DRL Mod, Blue Wire Mod, B&M 70264, Temp Gauge, Scangauge, Geolander 265/75R16's, FJ80 wheels.
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09-20-2016, 10:08 AM
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#15
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official vendor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearded Cabbage
Thanks for the replies everyone. A simple question often come back with many responses much more in depth than originally thought.
I'm going to pull the rear driveshaft this week and drive for a day in 4H and see if it changes anything. If it goes away, I'm guessing its the rear shaft. If it doesn't, then, well I've got other issues.
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A cheaper way to check is to remove the rear shaft, and put it in 4 high. If the problem isn't there then you know it's the rear shaft. If it's still there then you need to keep looking.
With a double cardan joints on the rear. Your pinion can handle a bit more than a single cardan joint can.
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