I don't have a clear understanding of why the bumpstops are spaced with several of the common kits - is it just for driveshaft/tank interference? Shock bottoming?

I'm inclined to NOT design to a reduced-travel setup (meaning go with a panhard mount drop on passenger side) but I may be missing something.

In any event, once we flesh this out, I'll draw up the appropriate part for our 3" comrades.


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I also like that a PDB for 3" solution makes this scalable; you can increase lift without changing PLB.


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I believe that the bump stops are used to limit the up travel and keep the tires out of the fender well. Personally I would rather clearance the finder than lose the up travel. I am running 8 wraps in the rear and have about 4.5" of lift. I am happy to have a 2" PLB and will balance with a 2" PDB. Should work really well. Thanks for a great looking and I'm sure working product.

I'll jump on this wagon...count me down for 1 please!

On topic. So I finally got around to hanging my new longer sway bar end links this afternoon. Check out what I discovered at the rear inside corner directly next to the universal joint...
Yup that is torn pealed back metal..... What is strange is I could not find any trauma on the universal joint or the driveshaft. Any thoughts from the experts...?

That is bizarre. The driveshaft shouldn't come close to hitting the skid for the gas tank unless the rear end has got abnormal movement side to side which I imagine you would feel big time. My educated guess is a piece of road debris kicked up into the driveshaft and then the driveshaft smashed it into the gas tank skid.

shoot me a PM with your email address for paypal and your shipping address!

Pretty normal when you flex it off road with longer then stock shocks . Grind it off or beat it flat or it will continue to hit worse and worse . Bet you your grease zert is gone !

This is completely normal running more that 3.5" rear coils. The rear will flex the driveshaft into the gas tank. It's more prominent when not running rear sway bar. If you don't cap the rear driveshaft zerk it will sheer off. Notching the gas tank skid works pretty well.

I never knew the rear end could move that much side to side. It can obviously articulate up and down and the amount is dependent on your suspension choice and whether the rear sway bar was connected but that much side to side movement is a surprise to me.

Recently, I was helping @infamousRNR pull his rear slip yoke to lubricate it better to get rid of the slip yoke binding clunk he was experiencing and I noticed his zerk fitting was broken off. I figured he dragged the driveshaft across some rocks but now I'm thinking he might have just flexed his rear end enough for the driveshaft to come in contact with the fuel tank skid.

This is why I love this forum. Always learning something.

So there's a plug you can buy for the zerk fitting hole?

I believe I have a 6mm Allen button bolt. You can get it at any hardware store.

Thanks guys. Well I'll be glad when I get the eimkeith PLB installed which will hopefully help contribute to a straighter running axle to get it away from the tank and back to near inline where it belongs. I am also planning to get the SS adjustable Panhard bar.

The basic facts at this moment. I'm running the OME 890 3" lift springs. With sway bar (now with extended end links as of today) connected. I'll crawl under Snowden tomorrow and check the status of the zerk. I neglected to check for that today as I was just sort of blown away with the skid discovery. One other curious thing is; when looking at the rear wheels they both seem to measure equal distance under the fender wells. I would have thought the driver rear would protrude out the left side slightly further.

Hey Ash,

With a lift in the rear, the rear axle will want to pull to the passenger side, not the driver side. As the panhard bar rises up, it will drag the rear end to the right side (passenger side).

When I helped @infamousRNR with his adjustable panhard bar install, we used a level resting against the fender flare going down to the tire and then used a tape measure to check the distance from the frame to the level.

Thanks, we'll need to get one for @infamousRNR .