I was wondering about the cross member contact and why I just did the adjustable bar. 1.5 " is not bad. I might do this.

From sonoran steel website

"FYI: The reason we do not use/manufacture the drop bracket any more, which ironically we invented it for the 3rd Gen 4Runner in 2001, is that it simply does not work. It is un-adjustable, so most installers see no benefit as they have a different amount of lift than the fixed weld on bracket compensates for. Basically is does not drop anywhere near enough and is incorrectly sized for most everyone. The discontinued drop bracket also increases the roll center, making the truck more tippy. The correct way to do this with a weld on bracket would be to raise the axle side, not to lower the frame side. If the bracket it is welded on crooked to any degree, it negates itself.

The longer Adjustable Trac/PanHard bar is the correct way to solve the problem without side effects, look at all the Jeep TJ and JK lifts, they do it the same way for the same suspension setup. Straight Axle with 4 links and a PanHard/Trac Bar/Lateral Rod."

Do you have extended bump stops? If so you can raise it even higher than 1". Just add an inch to however much you extended your bumps. This will help avoid body roll even more.



He is mostly right. But there is a typo in there. The DROP bracket DECREASES roll center and the LIFT bracket will INCREASE roll center. The higher the roll center the less tippy it will feel. As for the adjustable panhard, like I've said before, only corrects the alignment by recentering the axle. It does not level the panhard bar to correct the body sway as the suspension cycles. This can only be done with a Drop/Lift bracket. The reason people don't usually do a lift bracket is you can only lift it 1" with stock bumps without hitting the crossmember (look at my photos above). Is the adjustable better than the drop bracket? YES! But I would always recommend adding a lift bracket, even if it's only 1".



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He also does not recommend the lift because of the cross member contact. I have yet to notice any body roll with my adjustable panhard bar in the stock location. Most people complaining probably dont have a rear sway bar.

The adjustable panhard won't change your roll center at all, so you won't notice a difference in body roll. The problem with just an adjustable is it doesn't correct the panhard angle, which makes the rear end sway side to side as the suspension cycles. Try making a panhard lift bracket, see if you can notice a difference. You should be able reduce body roll and reduce panhard angle.


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Im saying I have not noticed this additional body roll after lifting. I only noticed it get wobbly a bit on the highway when hitting a bump at high speed. Since I aligned my rear it feels perfectly fine. Just trying to mention I have noticed zero added body roll with my angle off from the lift. What issue did you have that made you add the lift is what I'm getting at?

Hahah my bad. Now re-reading your other post, I misread it.
I initially added a drop bracket when I lifted and hated all the body roll so I cut it off and went back to the stock mount. Once I went back to stock mount I noticed how much sway I had going down the highway with the panhard being at an angle now. I decided I had to change something because both of those options sucked. So I made the lift bracket to help level the panhard to reduce the highway sway. I still get some sway because it's only 1.25" lift but it helped reduce it. I wish I could raise it a couple more inches but that would become a much bigger project than I want right now.


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Okay thans for the info. I used to have the exact same issue. I found it was the rear sway bar being removed. You have your rear sway bar removed?

If so I believe your compensating that roll with raising the bar. With the rear sway bar installed. Rear panhard bar adjusted, rear sway bar lift brackets and 1" extended links I get zero body roll or sway on the highway. I still think this lift/drop bracket on panhard bar is not needed after my results and talking with Steve at Sonoron Steel.

I've used my sway bar with extended links with all the different scenarios I've tried. Now that I've done the lift bracket I don't run a sway bar at all anymore. When I had the drop bracket, the sway bar made a big difference. With the lift bracket, the sway bar isn't as noticeable and when off-roading the sway bar causes a rougher ride.


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I had major gas tank to driveshaft contact when removing sway bar and that was even with the stock bar pushing the axle further away from the gas tank. It was so bad that I would get a major bang just pulling into my driveway with a little speed.

Re adding my stock rear sway bar with extended links (oem rubber bushings to avoid bending rear links) and relocation brackets was the best modification ive done to date. Felt so unsafe on the highway without it.

Wow that's pretty wild to hear your driveshaft was hitting the gas tank that bad. Mine hits only at full flex. That's good to hear you got it resolved though.


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Yep still a little confused but I'm just going to do what I think is right and hope

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It is a tough choice. LOL. I researched for days. Finally just said the hell with it and called up a few guys to talk. SS is the one who created the drop bracket. He is the one that talked me out of the drop bracket, lift bracket and to do just he panhard. After I did what he said the truck drives perfect.

I think if you can take anything from this, it would be to completely avoid the panhard drop bracket and stick with the other options.


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Why is that
I've installed many lift kits and all vehicles that have rear trac bars have drop brackets
Jeeps that I've lifted 2-3 inches have drop brackets
some 4inch kits depends on the kit manufacturer, and 6in have lift brackets
And most straight axle vehicles have drop brackets for the front trac bar also except some year jeeps have lift brackets
But all kits have brackets
I had the Toytec drop bracket on my old runner and it was a night and day difference with the 3in kit. That's why I got it again for this one
BDS was one of the company's I delt with a lot and those guys always rec a bracket over an adjustable trac bar because like someone stated above it puts everything back into the stock geometry and the adjustable bar just re centers your rear end.