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Old 11-02-2016, 06:17 PM #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killzone90 View Post
Well wheel bearings r new, suspension is new and tires where just balanced and didn't do it befor the lift. Only other thing I can think of is u joint going out

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Lift the truck up off all 4's. Have someone sit in the driver seat and put it in drive. You can than watch and listen to the rear joint to see if its failing. Also double check upper and lower control arm bushings. Panhard bushings can fail but this should not cause a vibration.
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:18 PM #47
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Yea I'm going to check u joints tomorrow. Also going to recheck front end and alignment

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Old 11-09-2016, 02:51 AM #48
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Just installed the trac bar drop.
Runner drives like I never lifted it
Night and day difference
I love it.
Definitely going to add an adjustable trac bar or make my own but I can tell the axle is about 1/4in to the right.
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:07 AM #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkamisPrime View Post

Just installed the trac bar drop.
Runner drives like I never lifted it
Night and day difference
I love it.
Definitely going to add an adjustable trac bar or make my own but I can tell the axle is about 1/4in to the right.
That drop looks huge!! No axle to bar contact when fully flexed?
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:06 PM #50
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Quote:
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That drop looks huge!! No axle to bar contact when fully flexed?


No sir.
Everything clears perfect
It was too dark to take flex shots but will do it this weekend.
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Old 11-09-2016, 05:56 PM #51
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Panhard bar question

This is an interesting topic. I have had a floaty feeling in the rear of my 1997 4runner ever since i purchased it. I have lifted it with the 2" Old Man Emu coils in the rear and installed Icon 57800CP rear shocks. I have a stock panhard bar in the stock location and stock sway bar with stock endlinks. I am interested to see if the Drop mount solved your problem. I think longer swaybar endlinks would also be a benifit.
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Old 11-09-2016, 08:45 PM #52
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Put full OME kit on my 96 in 2007 - hasn't been floaty (and I wail on it on paved mountain roads, fwiw) - maybe a bad shock pairing for your usage?
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Old 11-10-2016, 12:54 PM #53
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Panhard bar question

Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith View Post
Put full OME kit on my 96 in 2007 - hasn't been floaty (and I wail on it on paved mountain roads, fwiw) - maybe a bad shock pairing for your usage?
It might be bad shock paring, I first had Tundra shocks in the rear and it was even more floaty due to the more open damping.
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Old 11-11-2016, 01:42 PM #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AssBurns View Post
It's off about an 1/8-1/4" to help recenter the axle.

wait; why would you need to move the hole that direction? it would seem that the more it was raised, the less you'd have to recenter, yes? -and in the other direction, no?

also, if you didn't have the corner interference could you go significantly higher with the new hole? say a full 2"?
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Old 11-11-2016, 01:50 PM #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith View Post
wait; why would you need to move the hole that direction? it would seem that the more it was raised, the less you'd have to recenter, yes? -and in the other direction, no?

also, if you didn't have the corner interference could you go significantly higher with the new hole? say a full 2"?


You are 100% correct! Haha It wasn't really to recenter, it was to keep the driveshaft from hitting the gas tank skid as much. At first it was offset on accident before I welded it up but decided to keep it that way for driveshaft clearance. Still hit the skid though.


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Old 11-11-2016, 01:58 PM #56
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if you don't mind, could you measure up from original hole to the top of your bracket? I'm trying to determine the height at the contact point...

(drawing up a weld-on lift bracket, myself)
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Old 11-11-2016, 02:09 PM #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith View Post
if you don't mind, could you measure up from original hole to the top of your bracket? I'm trying to determine the height at the contact point...



(drawing up a weld-on lift bracket, myself)


Looks like 2" almost exactly. I'm sure I could shave that contact point down but i figured I could just let the mount make its own impression on the crossmember. The contact is pretty minimal as you can see.




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Old 11-11-2016, 02:32 PM #58
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Panhard bar question

Cool, thanks!

So something like this (where the corner is at 2") might work then:





I've got the hole 2" up from the factory one in that model, btw. I'm going to print one and see if I can get it to fit up acceptably well on a spare axle.

Judging by your flexed photo, the angled shoulder might work?


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Old 11-11-2016, 03:57 PM #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith View Post
Cool, thanks!

So something like this (where the corner is at 2") might work then:





I've got the hole 2" up from the factory one in that model, btw. I'm going to print one and see if I can get it to fit up acceptably well on a spare axle.

Judging by your flexed photo, the angled shoulder might work?


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That looks like it might work. I haven't had any issues when flexed, only at full compression on both sides. I'd try mocking it up on your vehicle with the coils removed and sitting at full bump. That way you can fine tune the height. I was too lazy to do that when I made mine.


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Old 11-11-2016, 05:02 PM #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AssBurns View Post
I haven't had any issues when flexed, only at full compression on both sides. I'd try mocking it up on your vehicle with the coils removed and sitting at full bump. That way you can fine tune the height.

Gotcha - good idea.


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