06-22-2017, 03:21 PM
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#16
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The wire insulation might be more easily damaged in cold than heat?
Yeah, that'll be a fun one to fix... Looks about like the door wiring in my '89 Camry before I fixed it.
As for the pics, you need to link an image file, not a link for a viewer page. That'll be easier with photobucket, imgur, flickr, etc...
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
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06-22-2017, 04:15 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
As for the pics, you need to link an image file, not a link for a viewer page. That'll be easier with photobucket, imgur, flickr, etc...
-Charlie
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I have them as a shared image on Google Drive. Is that not an acceptable hosting solution?
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06-22-2017, 06:04 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvpierce
I have them as a shared image on Google Drive. Is that not an acceptable hosting solution?
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The images are there, just hard to directly link to (what message board requires). A quick google search came up with one option:
Replacing 'open' with 'uc' before the question mark directs the google server to just serve the image instead of the whole webpage...
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
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06-26-2017, 10:05 PM
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#19
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Thanks for the info and for posting th pics.
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06-27-2017, 09:20 AM
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#20
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Sure are some purdy wires! Score one for El Durko!
@ TheDurk
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1989 FJ62 5.3 Chevy, FZJ80 Axles, 4.88's with ARB.
2000 2wd runner, 4 cylinders, yes it IS slow.
1999 4WD SR5 Desert Dune 3.4 351K and counting.
2000 4WD sport 3.4 Elocker <--My son's but I still end up paying.
2001 2WD SR5 3.4 <-- My daughter's...see preceding line.
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06-27-2017, 03:51 PM
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#21
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The Durk's rules are rules for a reason. Now if I could just remember all of them....
OP, thanks for the feed back. Have fun doing that fix.
And, yeah, severe cold could well be worse for the insulation than heat. Plastic insulation and copper wire both become stiff and more likely to break.
Be happy your lock actuators are less likely to fail than in the hot zones, as far as I can tell.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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06-27-2017, 05:32 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: winnipeg
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Ya, the cold is definitely worse for wires than the heat. The heat makes everything more pliable and the cold makes everything more brittle.
When you re-tape the bundle back up, don't make it super tight. When a tight bundle bends it will tend to compress the inner wires and stretch the outer wires, causing the insulation to crack and the inner wires to break too. If the wires are somewhat free to move (by not making the bundle too tight) then they wont be as stressed when you slam the door on a cold wintry day.
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06-27-2017, 07:27 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eanema
Ya, the cold is definitely worse for wires than the heat. The heat makes everything more pliable and the cold makes everything more brittle.
When you re-tape the bundle back up, don't make it super tight. When a tight bundle bends it will tend to compress the inner wires and stretch the outer wires, causing the insulation to crack and the inner wires to break too. If the wires are somewhat free to move (by not making the bundle too tight) then they wont be as stressed when you slam the door on a cold wintry day.
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Or move to CA
__________________
1989 FJ62 5.3 Chevy, FZJ80 Axles, 4.88's with ARB.
2000 2wd runner, 4 cylinders, yes it IS slow.
1999 4WD SR5 Desert Dune 3.4 351K and counting.
2000 4WD sport 3.4 Elocker <--My son's but I still end up paying.
2001 2WD SR5 3.4 <-- My daughter's...see preceding line.
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06-28-2017, 02:36 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IBallEngineer
Or move to CA
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January would definitely be more tollerable, but in couldn't get on board with the whole trump thing... :-P
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09-02-2018, 03:06 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: pawcatuck, ct
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1998 4runner cargo window issue
Like many folks - I have have been searching forums for info on rear cargo window issues - mine window would come down but not go up with switch by drivers seat and worked both ways fine using key in rear gate/door - this post i found to be the most helpful for me, because of the pictures of broken wires that span the frame and the gate. Here is the pic of what i am talking about and it is similar to some previous posters shots.
Just want to say thank you to you folks.
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02-11-2019, 03:16 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: SF Bay Area
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Real Name: Keoni
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Thanks guys for this post! However, I'm having no such luck on my 1999 4R Limited.
Rear wiper works. Rear window goes up and down from button inside and when key is inserted from outside. Rear defroster light turns on when depressed, but not defrosting. AND lost all functionality with key fob (no lock/unlock, window down, panic button - I've read/heard that this may be related).
I've checked the fuses, relays, checked the wiring loom near the hinge of the rig (no broken, cracked wires).
I guess it's time for a new body ecu (junction box/backdoor ecu/whatever its called)? Any other things to look into?
Last edited by T4RTRDSFBay; 02-11-2019 at 05:18 PM.
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11-01-2019, 10:10 AM
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#27
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Off grid in the middle of the middle of nowhere
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Real Name: Phineas
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Join Date: Oct 2019
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Well, the short wife tells me that on the 96 Limited the rear window rolls up fine but does not roll down - except when activating the rear wipers or washer or some combination of the two. I claim that is likely due to cracked, broken and shorting wires in the loom between the body and hatch.
How else could power get from one circuit in to another?
I'll check in a day or two.
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11-01-2019, 09:40 PM
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#28
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Yup. Took a quick look. Broken wires. Released the holding clip and twisted and taped 3" extensions. Solder and shrink wrap will be done soon so it becomes a good repair job. In the meantime everything works again and the rear wiper power doesn't cross feed in to the 'window down' power wire.
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