I've seen the idatalink information that says a 2002 4runner needs a bypass module, yet neither of my keys have a chip. They're metal copies from a hardware store. So do I really need one?

I'm putting this remote start in this weekend and can't find a legitimate answer.

Mine needed one under the dash to complete the start circuit. Technically not sure if that concept can be bypassed.

Besides chip keys are cheap on ebay/amazon, get one of those, cut it, have the dealer encode it and done.

You only need the bypass if you have the transponder/chip type key.

There are two possibilities.

Your truck was not equipped with the immobilizer (likely on a SR5 like mine in '99, idk about your year)

You have a chip and the PO did a redneck bypass by taping the chip somewhere up under the dash because he broke the steel part of his original key but was able to make copies.

I would think either case would allow you to install a remote start without a bypass, which I am not even sure you can do, other than the redneck kind. The immobilizer is built in to the ECM.

To find out which case it is, call a dealer, give them your VIN, and ask how much it would cost to make a new master. Pretty sure the price is different so they will tell you you have a chip if you do. They would need to charge you for programming the new key if it is a chipped rig.

Ok I left a msg with dealer. I'm sure I don't have a chip as I got a copy made at the store yesterday. They have a sensor you place your key by to see if it's chipped and it wasnt. My car only came with a metal spare so r could be rednecked but I won't know that until I disassemble everything

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Directed has a lookup online. It says yes for the 4runner and no for the subaru. It also has a wire color dagram which helps. I must have a bypass module in it somewhere then since my keys not chipped. Where do people usually store those?

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This is actually what I do for a living. If you can start the car with a standard metal key there is no bypass needed. There was very few 02 T4R that had a chipped key. I've actually never seen one. 03+ generally have them. An easy way to tell for sure is pull the dash trim off the front of the cylinder, if it only has the two wires for the light and two on top for key sense there is no bypass needed. If it has an additional ring (typically black) there is indeed a transponder. If you have any questions on the install let me know, I'd be glad to help.

Greg

Edit: I should add if you have the factory alarm, the way to disarm that without unlocking the truck is pulse the negative disarm from the remote start to the key sense wire instead of the actual disarm wire in the car. This way the truck stays locked after remote start. Also the Toyota remotes do not function while remote started.

thanks scallywag. I don't have an alarm so this is a fresh install

I second this.

I just got it done two weekends ago before winter here in the East Coast. I also only had the metal toyota key when I got the car in January. I had copies made when I first got the car for less than $2 a piece at lowes. Every key works fine, never a problem.

I didn't have to pay for the bypass unit so I took that extra money and got the drone mobile unit put in with a compustar starter. Aside from the additional subscription cost, I still think it's worth it. I can lock my doors (especially when I'm in doubt if I locked them before I walked away) or start my car from anywhere in the world from either the app or website. I can start my car from the train when I'm 5 minutes out so it's warm and I can just drive off.

ok so the guy I wanted to pay flaked out so I'm gonna take a stab at this. I can do household electrical OK so this shouldn't be hard. And I did my radio too.

My clifford 4105 has the following colors.

I also know my wires from this chart:
Constant 12 volts WHITE/RED & WHITE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts BLACK/RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter GREEN/BLACK IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light L GREEN/BLACK (-) 13 PIN CONN. BEHIND FUSE BOX *
Trunk Pin Switch BLUE/WHITE (-) AT SWITCH IN REAR DOOR
Parking Lamp GREEN (+) AT FUSE BOX IN DRIVER KICK PANEL
Power Lock RED/WHITE 18 PIN CONN. IN DRIVER
Power Unlock RED KICK PANEL **
Tach Signal BLACK OR BLUE AT ECM BEHIND PASSENGER SIDE DASH
Ignition #2 BLACK/YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #3 N/A
Accessory BLUE/RED IGNITION SWITCH AHRNESS
Neutral Safety NOT GROUNDING TYPE - OEM SWITCH OPENS STARTER CIRCUIT
Brake Light GREEN/WHITE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PADEL
Reverse Light WHITE/BLUE (+) AT SWITCH ON TRANSMISSION
Rear Window Defrost L GREEN/BLACK AT SWITCH OR BODY ECU *

So...Do I just connect whatever is valid from cliffords wire's into the car's and that's it? Since I know now that I don't need a bypass.

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When I have access to directechs at work tomorrow I'll cross reference for ya but yes that all sounds right, there are a few wires in there you wont need for the 4105.

Reverse Light WHITE/BLUE (+) AT SWITCH ON TRANSMISSION
Trunk Pin Switch BLUE/WHITE (-) AT SWITCH IN REAR DOOR
*wouldn't need unless it was a security system (4105 is not)*
Dome Light L GREEN/BLACK (-) 13 PIN CONN. BEHIND FUSE BOX *
*Unless you want it to come on when you unlock it*
Neutral Safety NOT GROUNDING TYPE - OEM SWITCH OPENS STARTER CIRCUIT
*You can just ground the black/white wire unless its a manual you can hook it up to neutral safety or parking brake*

Here are the wires you'll need to make it work properly in the pdf. The rear defrost is optional.

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Directechs.pdf (91.8 KB, 390 views)

oooooh thanks scallywag! It sure helps.

Not a problem, if you do have the factory alarm disarm wires present, I would run the green/black from the 4105 to keysense wire and unlock wire to unlock. Otherwise your truck will unlock whenever you remote start it.

I will keep that in mind thanks