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Old 11-15-2016, 12:53 PM #16
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This Amsoil lube is not the easiest thing to get up here, do you recommend I put in the effort or is there a more common brand that is just as good?
You can order it directly from amsoil, i usually order all my fluids at the same time from them so the membership cost makes sense. i've got the MTG in mine and it shifts good.
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Old 11-15-2016, 12:56 PM #17
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No e-locker for me. I did not do the shifter seat, doesn't feel like it needs it yet. Do you use the product that Marlin Crawler makes?

Mark, can you get your hands on Redline? MT-90 is a comparable product to Amsoil MTG.

Yes, i used the Marlin Parts under my Short shifter and it made a world of difference

https://www.marlincrawler.com/transm...y-duty-sockets

https://www.marlincrawler.com/transm...avy-duty-seats
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Old 11-16-2016, 09:17 PM #18
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Working on fitting up some "skinny" black SR5 flares. My base model appears not to have holes in the back fender cutouts. I am leery of drilling holes, but I think I may have found a decent solution... a handful of midget welding clamps:




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Old 11-22-2016, 03:00 AM #19
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Success! I got the rear flare installed without drilling into the fender (my base model did not have any holes).



The secret? These little panel clamps, slightly modified thus:







And here they are holding the rear flare on very snugly


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Old 11-22-2016, 03:25 AM #20
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Where did you get your flares? Do the front ones come with a bit of a mud guard? i just took off my running boards and now I'm going to get a lot more crap thrown up the side.
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Old 11-22-2016, 12:31 PM #21
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These were factory ones on my local Craigslist. I painted them so they look fresh. Here was my painting process:
- Scrub with simple green
- Rinse with water
- Wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, allow to dry
- Paint with Rustoleum Primer & Sealer, Gray, 3 light coats til covered, allow to dry a few minutes
- Paint with Rustoleum Trim and Bumper Spray, Matte Black, again 3 light coats til covered.
- Dry a couple days in the sun!!

I did not get the front mud guards, apparently they are quite rare. But I got some aftermarket ones and trimmed them to fit, wasn't too hard. I'll post up about that with some pictures later.

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Old 11-23-2016, 09:28 PM #22
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Fender flares turned out good! I'm grateful to the dude that suggested the gasketing for the flares, makes a big difference in fit & finish.

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Old 11-23-2016, 09:32 PM #23
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In other news, I disassembled and cleaned my roof rack. Mold everywhere, leaves and dirt stuffed in the open spaces, general swampass... I know left-coasters are all into composting, but I'm not doing it in my roof rack.





Some tips:

Replace the gray tape patches under the 10 mounting holes with some 3M body tape. It's super sticky and strong and helps seal the hole. Silicone RTV was used on the mounting bolt threads. They are a T25 Torx, make sure you've got a bit that adapts to a ratchet -- some of the threads are really tight due to the sealant.

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Old 11-24-2016, 03:54 PM #24
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A nice fella on Craigslist hooked me up with a pair of '99 "tall" springs, paint code yellow/red. (The yellow looks a little green, which was confusing when doing research on springs). Gave them a little wire brushing on the ends where some surface rust had set it and primed/painted.

Old (yellow/blue) vs. new. Note the extra wrap.



Bumpstop clearance before and after:




The mod netted me a clean 1" at the rear wheel wells, and my bumpstop clearance went from about 1/4" to 1-1/4", much more comfortable on the bumps now!

Bilstein 4600's coming next week...

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Old 11-25-2016, 08:27 PM #25
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Tall Springs

Trying to find these used is a challenge.
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Old 11-25-2016, 09:02 PM #26
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Trying to find these used is a challenge.
Is someone trying to get a post count up or is this just a troll?
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Old 11-27-2016, 12:05 AM #27
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I replaced the rear sway bar bushings with Prothane when I did the coils. A couple of questions for the gurus:

- The 99 springs have boosted the end up a bit, and the rear sway bar doesn't meet the endlinks at a 90* angle anymore. Should I consider putting some front links (1" longer) in the rear to compensate?

- The original rubber bushings have a washer on each side, so 4 washers total per endlink. The Prothane kit only has 2 washers per side, so I left the inside surface of the bushings naked so they press right up against the frame. Is this correct, or should I have retained two extra factory washers?

Lastly, am I just overthinking all this stuff? ;)
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:39 PM #28
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Marlin Crawler shifter seats for the transmission and transfer case. Don't be like me and try to reuse the black rubber gasket underneath the new Marlin seat... read the directions and throw that thing away!



By the way, what is that little air hose for? There's a small vacuum tube connected to it.

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Old 11-29-2016, 02:27 PM #29
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That's a breather line that loops right down to another barb
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90% of the build threads in the 5th Gen section consist of Fuel Wheels, Plastidip, Duratracs and window tint.
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Old 11-29-2016, 02:39 PM #30
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That's a breather line that loops right down to another barb
Thanks!
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