11-15-2016, 12:53 PM
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#16
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Van B.C.
Posts: 892
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Van B.C.
Posts: 892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_BC
This Amsoil lube is not the easiest thing to get up here, do you recommend I put in the effort or is there a more common brand that is just as good?
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You can order it directly from amsoil, i usually order all my fluids at the same time from them so the membership cost makes sense. i've got the MTG in mine and it shifts good.
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1997 SR5 4WD 3RZ/5spd. Evergreen Pearl/Oak. Elocked. 4.56 Toyota Gearing. Full body resto/Custom 3 Stage "Tri-Coat" 751 paint job. 2.5" OME lift/w Bilstein Shocks. JAOS Spoiler. Duratracs. Custom Taco Rims. EBC Brakes. SS Braided lines. Marlin Crawler Trans & parts. Marlin HD clutch. URD short shift kit. 1st Gen Shift Knobs. MStudt's endlinks. JBA SS exhaust. LCE Headers. K&N. 140A CS144 alt. Big 3/4 wiring. Hella/PIAA Lighting. 2nd Gen Map Light Mod. Custom LED switchback DRL/Turnsignals. 32" Curved LED bar. Front Tint. A/D/S/ Stereo. SoundProofed. RangeRover seat swap. 99 Clears. A/C. PWR everthing. EastWood Frame coating. AMSOIL. Custom sleeping solution.
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11-15-2016, 12:56 PM
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#17
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Van B.C.
Posts: 892
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Van B.C.
Posts: 892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZiggy
No e-locker for me. I did not do the shifter seat, doesn't feel like it needs it yet. Do you use the product that Marlin Crawler makes?
Mark, can you get your hands on Redline? MT-90 is a comparable product to Amsoil MTG.
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Yes, i used the Marlin Parts under my Short shifter and it made a world of difference
https://www.marlincrawler.com/transm...y-duty-sockets
https://www.marlincrawler.com/transm...avy-duty-seats
__________________
1997 SR5 4WD 3RZ/5spd. Evergreen Pearl/Oak. Elocked. 4.56 Toyota Gearing. Full body resto/Custom 3 Stage "Tri-Coat" 751 paint job. 2.5" OME lift/w Bilstein Shocks. JAOS Spoiler. Duratracs. Custom Taco Rims. EBC Brakes. SS Braided lines. Marlin Crawler Trans & parts. Marlin HD clutch. URD short shift kit. 1st Gen Shift Knobs. MStudt's endlinks. JBA SS exhaust. LCE Headers. K&N. 140A CS144 alt. Big 3/4 wiring. Hella/PIAA Lighting. 2nd Gen Map Light Mod. Custom LED switchback DRL/Turnsignals. 32" Curved LED bar. Front Tint. A/D/S/ Stereo. SoundProofed. RangeRover seat swap. 99 Clears. A/C. PWR everthing. EastWood Frame coating. AMSOIL. Custom sleeping solution.
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11-16-2016, 09:17 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Working on fitting up some "skinny" black SR5 flares. My base model appears not to have holes in the back fender cutouts. I am leery of drilling holes, but I think I may have found a decent solution... a handful of midget welding clamps:
Last edited by JZiggy; 07-04-2017 at 03:32 PM.
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11-22-2016, 03:00 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Last edited by JZiggy; 07-04-2017 at 03:34 PM.
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11-22-2016, 03:25 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: North Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,740
Real Name: Just call me the Grease Monkey
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: North Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,740
Real Name: Just call me the Grease Monkey
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Where did you get your flares? Do the front ones come with a bit of a mud guard? i just took off my running boards and now I'm going to get a lot more crap thrown up the side.
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11-22-2016, 12:31 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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These were factory ones on my local Craigslist. I painted them so they look fresh. Here was my painting process:
- Scrub with simple green
- Rinse with water
- Wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, allow to dry
- Paint with Rustoleum Primer & Sealer, Gray, 3 light coats til covered, allow to dry a few minutes
- Paint with Rustoleum Trim and Bumper Spray, Matte Black, again 3 light coats til covered.
- Dry a couple days in the sun!!
I did not get the front mud guards, apparently they are quite rare. But I got some aftermarket ones and trimmed them to fit, wasn't too hard. I'll post up about that with some pictures later.
Last edited by JZiggy; 03-29-2017 at 12:16 PM.
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11-23-2016, 09:28 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Fender flares turned out good! I'm grateful to the dude that suggested the gasketing for the flares, makes a big difference in fit & finish.
Last edited by JZiggy; 07-04-2017 at 03:35 PM.
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11-23-2016, 09:32 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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In other news, I disassembled and cleaned my roof rack. Mold everywhere, leaves and dirt stuffed in the open spaces, general swampass... I know left-coasters are all into composting, but I'm not doing it in my roof rack.
Some tips:
Replace the gray tape patches under the 10 mounting holes with some 3M body tape. It's super sticky and strong and helps seal the hole. Silicone RTV was used on the mounting bolt threads. They are a T25 Torx, make sure you've got a bit that adapts to a ratchet -- some of the threads are really tight due to the sealant.
Last edited by JZiggy; 07-04-2017 at 03:36 PM.
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11-24-2016, 03:54 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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A nice fella on Craigslist hooked me up with a pair of '99 "tall" springs, paint code yellow/red. (The yellow looks a little green, which was confusing when doing research on springs). Gave them a little wire brushing on the ends where some surface rust had set it and primed/painted.
Old (yellow/blue) vs. new. Note the extra wrap.
Bumpstop clearance before and after:
The mod netted me a clean 1" at the rear wheel wells, and my bumpstop clearance went from about 1/4" to 1-1/4", much more comfortable on the bumps now!
Bilstein 4600's coming next week...
Last edited by JZiggy; 07-04-2017 at 03:36 PM.
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11-25-2016, 08:27 PM
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#25
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 126
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 126
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Tall Springs
Trying to find these used is a challenge.
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11-25-2016, 09:02 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: New Jersey
Age: 56
Posts: 1,963
Real Name: John
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: New Jersey
Age: 56
Posts: 1,963
Real Name: John
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pekoe1111
Trying to find these used is a challenge.
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Is someone trying to get a post count up or is this just a troll?
__________________
SILVER 2000 4runner Limited TOTALED
WHITE/SILVER 1999 4runner Limited l Rear Locker l Tundra/890 coils | 5100 Bilsteins all around | Sonoran Steel Bumpstops l 199 mm Tundra brake upgrade | SCS Matte Gray Ray10 Rims | 275 70 17 BFG KO2 tires | LR UCAs | EIMKEITH panhard brackets | LED interior upgrade l Rear LED tailights l Pioneer AVH-X5700BHS Alpine Type "R" speakers NVX JAD800.4 Class D Amp Kenwood Under seat Subwoofer l Front window tint 20% l Weathertech window visors and floormats l OutGear Solutions Full Length roofrack l Morimoto 40" LED lightbar
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11-27-2016, 12:05 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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I replaced the rear sway bar bushings with Prothane when I did the coils. A couple of questions for the gurus:
- The 99 springs have boosted the end up a bit, and the rear sway bar doesn't meet the endlinks at a 90* angle anymore. Should I consider putting some front links (1" longer) in the rear to compensate?
- The original rubber bushings have a washer on each side, so 4 washers total per endlink. The Prothane kit only has 2 washers per side, so I left the inside surface of the bushings naked so they press right up against the frame. Is this correct, or should I have retained two extra factory washers?
Lastly, am I just overthinking all this stuff? ;)
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11-29-2016, 12:39 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Marlin Crawler shifter seats for the transmission and transfer case. Don't be like me and try to reuse the black rubber gasket underneath the new Marlin seat... read the directions and throw that thing away!
By the way, what is that little air hose for? There's a small vacuum tube connected to it.
Last edited by JZiggy; 07-04-2017 at 03:37 PM.
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11-29-2016, 02:27 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Tennessee
Age: 26
Posts: 2,852
Real Name: Charlie
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Tennessee
Age: 26
Posts: 2,852
Real Name: Charlie
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That's a breather line that loops right down to another barb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STX4Runner
90% of the build threads in the 5th Gen section consist of Fuel Wheels, Plastidip, Duratracs and window tint.
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1998 4Runner "Diamond" - Daily Driver (rolled & rebuilt) - 3.4 5-Speed, Coastal Bumper, Manual Hubs, 255/80r17 AT3Ws (409k+ Miles)
1997 4Runner "Becky" - Camping Rig - 3.4 Auto (for now), Armored, Cable E-Locked, Coastal Bumper, Sleeper Deck, 255/80r17 AT3Ws (185k+ Miles)
1989 4Runner | Tennessee 4Runner Group
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11-29-2016, 02:39 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckles89
That's a breather line that loops right down to another barb
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Thanks!
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