I had some extra sound deadening supplies to use up so I tackled a couple more small areas.

Popped off the hatch plastic and took down the two metal panels. Vibration deadener on the inside surface and foam on top, plus foam on the outer surface. Also fresh gasketing with some Home Depot rubber foam tape.





I also added a couple of patches of vibe mat to the inside of the hatch metal, on the flat sections either side of the license plate.

Took down the hood insulator. Boy those clips are strong! They all exploded of course, fortunately I had a pack of fresh ones. Cleaned off the original dust and grime underneath.



Vibration mat stuck on all the inside surfaces



OEM insulator reinstalled with fresh clippies



The only downside now is that the hatch is a bit heavier and goes up a little more slowly. Oh well! The treatment seems to have helped as the interior noise, especially from the drivetrain, is slightly reduced. Yay!

I also got back another oil report from Blackstone. Based on the previous readings I decided to push this interval a bit farther to 7500 miles, the longest I have gone yet. This was running Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 oil (I got a few jugs of this stuff some years ago on sale or something.)



The ppm/mile of the key wear metals, Fe and Al, is the lowest I have seen. This supports the claim that a lot of oil nuts make that using your oil for longer, as long as the oil is still healthy with intact viscosity and TBN, can actually reduce wear. The theory is the brand new oil is aggressive at first and causes a bit more wear at first then it does later on in the interval. I think from now on I'll keep the 7500 interval. I'm not really interested in going much longer since I still want to change it our approximately yearly.

I don't know if you remember, but a couple of years ago I ran 27,000 miles on synthetic without an oil change, only topping off. The Blackstone report was impeccable. It's documented in my 2WD project thread.

10,000 mile oil change intervals is not unrealistic using a good quality oil and filter.

See you put the insulation over the vacuum diagram and emissions sticker. I imagine it's a lot quieter than mine, the pre-99 3rz didn't get any insulation at all (not even on the firewall).

Did you notice any difference in MPG after changing your injectors and cleaning the intake? I need projects to do over break, and increased MPG (plus range), power, and engine smoothness are all things I would like to have more of.

Yeah I got a picture of those stickers in case I want to reproduce them. Not that important.

I haven’t measured any noticeable improvement in mileage but the power and smoothness is better. I probably didn’t improve mileage because I’m driving it a little harder now because it’s more responsive!

Wow I bet with all that deadening it has road noise more akin to a Lexus now!

Not quite there yet I think I may put some under the seats at some point

I love carrying my little CRV picnic table around on the roof rack and I pull it down to use it often. I realized I could optimize the space by making rails for it to fit down underneath the rack, allowing the top to be completely free for loading stuff.

The trick was some Z-channel from McMaster. I had to space one side up 1/8" due to the shape of the table. The two tracks taper inward slightly so that the table slides in easy and then stuffs down snugly.







I wanted a way to positively clamp the table in place but not obstruct the top or sides. Heres what I came up with.



The bend of the tab locks into that slot in the table. The angle of the tab bears against the front of the back roof rail so it can't slide back. To clamp well I installed a rivnut into the side of the z-channel and then put an extra bolt up through it to make a stud for the knob to clamp on.



In other news, I replaced my hatch weatherstripping with OEM. No pictures but it was easy.

Santa brought me some incredibly cool Nepro wrenches. Get this, they are long handled, 6 point, flat, and zero angle. Straight from Japan!

Did you consider this Siless LinerPRO 2in1 200 mil (5mm) 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening & Heat Insulation Closed Cell Foam - PE Foam Sound Deadener? https://a.co/d/dVYJOha

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No I did not, and I wasn't aware of it. Looks like it would be a great option as well!

Love how clean and meticulous this build is!! I bet that sound deadening has made a dramatic improvement in interior noise nwo that you’ve done so many of the panels. Was there any one area that you’ve noticed the most improvement in road noise - for us who would like to attack the primary culprit first and foremost?

Also love the CRV table - great idea and integration of it under your rack to utilize space.

Thank you!!! I think doing the ceiling was the most impactful. In the future I’d like to put some stuff in the floors under the seats - eventually.

The floor is my first priority, exhaust heat on the passenger side makes the floor hot.

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Been a while since any updates. Lots of time spent helping other with their cars instead which is good too I guess.

Swapped out the belt trim on the hatch window. It required pulling the panel so it was more involved than the doors. The inner felt was in pretty rough shape though the exterior wasn't too bad.

Before & after





(In case you're wondering why I have tire cables in the back... if you lived in Atlanta during the 2013 Snowpocalypse you'd understand)

Finally got around to replacing the lock actuator motors on both the rear doors.
Kudos to @habanero for the writeup I followed.

My key fob randomly forgot its programming so I had to figure out how to make it relearn. I was only successful when using the key to actuate the lock from the driver door. After a few attempts I got it (and the crappy replacement fobs on Amazon I got for spares did NOT work). But after cycling the locks a few dozen times the motors warmed up and the rear doors got really sluggish or non-responsive so I knew I had to do them.

Passenger side:











Driver side:









Put some sound deadening and acoustic foam inside the doors and some foam on the inside of the door panels. Fun craft projects.

Interesting that my passenger side didn't have the little white plastic guide piece. I think that door got repaired or replaced a long time ago so they must've left it out. I might get one and put it in there just 'cuz.

I also replaced the little plastic clips that hold the rod to the door handle. In one door it had cracked.

Very nice!! My 'new' motors are still working great 70,000 miles later.