Today was a great repair day thanks to the help and company of two Toyota nut friends including @fourfive . I am so grateful for the great community we enjoy in the Toyota world and the way this forum brings folks together.

We replaced my oil pump, front crank seal, harmonic balancer, radiator hoses, and accessory belts. This is not a detailed writeup but just an overview with a few interesting learnings thrown in for future reference. If you're looking for a writeup here are a couple to check out:

Write-Up: 3rz Oil Pump Replacement

2/3RZ Oil System Photo Reference | Tacoma World

Front of the engine looking kind of seepy. This developed over the last 2 years.



Pulled the radiator to make some room to work. While the rad was out I sprayed the fins with coil cleaner and hosed it out thoroughly. The radiator is a Denso I bought in 2017 and it seems to still be in fine shape.



Accessory belts pulled along with the fan and fan clutch. Two accessory pulleys taken off of the harmonic balancer (four 12mm bolts).



Crank bolt came off with some work by the impact gun courtesy of @fourfive again. Gotta stop living in the stone age and get me some impact tools someday.



I soaked the crappy OEM JIS headed screws with some Kroil and they came out without much trouble with a good JIS P3 bit on a ratchet. Thank goodness -- lots of folks report these getting stuck and being a major PITA to drill out.

Pump cover pulled and original rotors shown still in place.



Rotors pulled, closeup of the cavity behind.





New OEM oil pump cover shown vs the original. Interesting that the new one has a second set of timing marks on the left side. The new OEM harmonic balancer also has a second 0* mark on the inner wall that also matches up with this lefthand one. I guess Toyota added this at some point, not sure why. When the balancer is at 0* both marks line up with both 0* indicators.



I missed a few photo opportunities here. New OEM seal pressed into the cover. New OEM oil pump rotors installed and packed with vaseline to help prime the pump for faster oil pressure upon startup. I also upgraded the JIS bolts to some flathead screws that are zinc plated 12.9 -- much easier to torque with an allen bit and easier to remove if I ever need to in the future. I got these from Bolt Depot.

The FSM does not provide a torque spec but I found that the 5VZ also uses these fasteners for its oil pump and 8 ft-lb is mentioned so I went with that. The limiting factor is the soft die casting that the screws thread into. These 12.9 fasteners could easily go to about 15 ft-lb. While torquing them up in steps I found that one fastener started to yield a bit going up to 8 ft-lb so I dropped it to 7 ft-lb and it held there, so I did all the fasteners to this spec.





Old vs new harmonic balancer. These have a rubber component inside that can go bad over time which is why I replaced it.



The balancer keys into the oil pump rotor and then into the woodruff key on the shaft that also holds the timing sprocket.



New OEM crank bolt on the right vs. old on the left. Apparently Toyota updated the design at some point. The new one has less thread engagement but is slightly longer with an elongated reduced shank. I expect that this adds a little more elastic energy into the joint helping it hold better with the same torque. I added medium strength threadlocker to the threads for more security.



Finally, I used a CTA 2237 crank holder tool for torquing the crank bolt. The holder bolts into two of the holes for the accessory pulleys. A pipe is slipped over the little arm to hold the crank still. FSM specifies 193 ft-lb.



Afterward we put all the belts back on, radiator, etc. The oil level dropped by about 1/2 qt from what poured out of the oil pump when it was removed.

Upon startup I was pleased to see that the oil pressure light went off immediately after cranking it up, meaning that packing vaseline into the oil pump rotors allowed it to get suction on the oil immediately.

After running the engine for 30 min I then changed the oil to get rid of the vaseline and whatever initial break-in metals may have come off the new rotors and oil pump cover.

Three cheers for a job well done and a repair without any hangups!!

One of the most organized & hang-up free projects I’ve been a part of. Down to drink beer & wrench with you anytime my friend. Will have to remember 7ft/lbs for my 5vz oil pump.

Gotta give credit to @LittleCaesar for turning me onto the metabo impact which has ko’d every crank bolt I’ve come across so far.

A lot of cool stuff on your 4runner that I'm going to have to revisit. Especially got me considering @Spiker Engineering hood struts & phone mount.

Fun fact - @JZiggy was the first "customer vehicle installation" (i.e. guinea pig) for both our hood strut kit and the phone mount. Why? Simply because @JZiggy is about as meticulous and thorough as they come, an engineer after my own heart, and thus a great resource for feedback and comments on our products . If something we make is good enough for him, it's good enough for the world at large .

Speaking of, I finally got my phone mount wrapped up. I painted the mag mount bracket and installed the two push-in fasteners that are part of the Spiker kit.

Holes drilled. Funny that the dash material is gray with brown paint



Clippiddy doo dahs



Installed with a decent amount of force to push the center part in. As a dad I'm obligated at this point to observe "well this bracket ain't going anywhere."







Best phone mount option on the market, folks!!

I love it when you post something new you have done. You are one meticulous, crafty guy.

Well Leon designed this awesome bracket. So he’s the crafty guy here. I just bolted my own nonsense onto it.

Nice truck. Love the colour

Another day and another oil analysis report. Best I can tell this 3RZ has decided it will simply never wear out.

AC water drain tube and holder mod. Handy to have random unused bosses in the frame sometimes.

That is very handy. I have lived in the southwest desert my whole life, so I don't know the rust struggles that other people do. The only really rusty nut I've had to tackle on my truck was where the ac evaporator had constantly dripped onto my sway bar end link. I also extended the drain to prevent that, but as usual your solution is much more elegant.

I was thinking too that it would be cool to capture the condensate water for offroad trips. Maybe wouldn't drink it but you could certainly rinse dishes.

Nifty!

That report looks great. Still running the 5w40 Mobil? One of the national chains had it on sale the other month, forgot to link it to you ($15 for five quarts I think).

As @fourfive can attest to, having a battery powered impact is a game changer

Yeah I've been bouncing between a pile of Rotella Gas Truck 5W-30 I got on sale and some Mobil or Rotella 5W-40 diesel full synth. The diesel seems to give slightly lower wear numbers, though the statistical significance is questionable, so I'll probably lean toward 5W-40 diesel for the future.

Would be interesting to see how much water could be collected after a full day's drive. Liking your bracket & bolt set up for your ac drain tube. Looks more refined than my zip tie.