uh, hydros.

but for real, I'm also glad to see some options out there!
I'm eager to find a more progressive option than my Daystars

I've read about this but never looked into it. Do you know if there are any negatives associated with putting antiseize on poly bushings?

I don't honestly know if it effects the lifespan on poly bushings. But I have had no degradation on my energy suspension poly bushings in my miata. 7 or so years ago and no squeak. I did the same when I put in the poly bushing on the lower control arms on the 4runner, steering rack and sway bars.

I think Perry is still a higher performing product, so that's what I would choose.

Hey T4R team,

We all know the forum has been getting wonky lately. Who knows if it will disappear one day and then we all will be forced to find sicmods on BookFace... I sure hope not.

I have downloaded the pages of my build thread to have as a backup, using the GoFullPage Chrome extension to just capture them as pictures. There's probably a more elegant way but I'm not tech savvy enough to figure it out LOL. I realized this thread is most valuable for me as a diary and a reference for details.

In the meantime, I'll keep on posting (and backing up) and remain hopeful that the issues will get straightened out.

It was finally time to retire the old Sumitomo Encounter ATs and get something new. Those tires really did great and we less than $700 out the door. Put probably 50k on them without a single issue, but they were down to 4/32" tread and getting a bit of dry rot cracks and I was ready for something more capable. Splurged and got a set of Wildpeak AT4s! These have 15/32" tread new, nice and chonky





Shoutout to the great folks at Gran Turismo East who sold me the tires and did the alignment. I've never experienced such a professional alignment job. After installing the tires they put the truck up on the alignment rack with me in the driver's seat! Reason being that the driver's (not inconsiderable) weight needs to be accounted for when aligning. They also had me put the wheel to exactly where I felt was centered and locked it in there. The tech shared that the rear axle is a tiny bit out of alignment, but not enough to need to be addressed -- adjustable links would be necessary of course. He also noticed that I had marked my adjustment points (LCA bolts and outer tie rods) and placed fresh marks with a pen that even matched the purple color I typically use. Outstanding service!





I also decided to finally do something about my funny rear end links. After installing the Sonoran Steel bracket lift (after doing the suspension lift) it kicks the front eye of the bar forward 1/2" causing the links to sit at an angle. Not a big problem but not ideal.



These cheapo links (basically Moog knockoffs) already have some wear in the socket so I figured I could experiment with them. Fortunately this link design has a really beefy center rod so I was able to heat & bend them without worrying about them breaking or bending more during use (I hope). Made a little template to figure out what bend I needed, hit the center with a torch for a minute, and bent to shape on my arbor press



Now the top of the link is happily vertical and mates properly with the upper mount.



In the future I may get a fresh pair, bend them again, and paint them for longevity.

Very interesting idea, it's cool to see what you come up with.

I do like this better than my idea of cutting/relocating the frame mounts...
Just want make sure I still clear the locker and don't make the sway bar move in some weird arc.

If the “banana links” work out I can make more if people need them. Let me know!

What do you think about making a set of tapered blocks that would fix the angle and provide a nice flat surface for the bushings to bear against?

It would probably be worth seeing what the link angles look like at full droop and full flex. You might be exacerbating the link angle issues when the suspension is extended - though shock length and bump stop size play a role there too.

-Charlie

Good idea. I just used some 5/8” bolts and put it in simple 3 point bend. I could just put a stop underneath to set the total amount of bend.

Testing!

Would 4-1/4" clearance between the tire and the ladder frame be enough to install the outboard shock relocation kit using the same shocks that you're using?