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Old 11-30-2016, 06:58 PM #1
twa318 twa318 is offline
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Starter rapidly clicks on crank

So we had the first "cold" morning of the year last week (40 degrees) and the 4runner wouldn't start. The interior lights came on, but when I turned the key the starter would just make a rapid clicking sound and wouldn't turn over. I couldn't get the truck to jump either.

I looked at the sticker on the battery and it was 9 years old! So I went to autozone, swapped out the battery and the truck fired right up HOWEVER now when I start it up there is a rapid "clicking" sound. The 4runner starts right up but the clicking sound is terrible.

My question is, this never happened before the battery died, is it possible that I damaged the starter when I was trying to crank it without enough battery power?
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:00 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twa318 View Post
So we had the first "cold" morning of the year last week (40 degrees) and the 4runner wouldn't start. The interior lights came on, but when I turned the key the starter would just make a rapid clicking sound and wouldn't turn over. I couldn't get the truck to jump either.

I looked at the sticker on the battery and it was 9 years old! So I went to autozone, swapped out the battery and the truck fired right up HOWEVER now when I start it up there is a rapid "clicking" sound. The 4runner starts right up but the clicking sound is terrible.

My question is, this never happened before the battery died, is it possible that I damaged the starter when I was trying to crank it without enough battery power?
No, you shouldn't have damaged anything. I would recommend making a video of it and posting. The starter may not be releasing like it should.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:25 PM #3
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You're getting marginal amperage even from the new battery. Sounds like you had a bad connection that got a bit better when the new battery was installed. Check your cables for corrosion.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:59 PM #4
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Well, it could be any of these. Try having a buddy knock the starter for you and see if it cranks if it doesnt crank the first time (explain a little more detail).

but it could be any of these things:

bad neutral safety switch (automatic tranny)
bad clutch safety switch (manual tranny)
bad starter relay
bad starter solenoid
corroded electrical connections in the starting circuit
worn-out part in the starter motor or some other system component
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:06 AM #5
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It is still the battery. A-Zone batteries are well-proven to be defective. May be 1 out of 10 works.
Cold weather and clicks is the battery.
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:20 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissanh View Post
It is still the battery. A-Zone batteries are well-proven to be defective. May be 1 out of 10 works.
Cold weather and clicks is the battery.


That's why I go to Walmart for batteries. Quality counts......
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:41 AM #7
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Corrosion on the clamping surfaces of the battery connectors can be thin and invisible. Clean the part the touches the battery post with wire brush, emery cloth, etc.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:35 AM #8
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I have a rolling cart that my battery tester sits on. Also on that cart are the battery tools I need including, charger, battery connector expansion pliers, terminal/connector brush-cleaner, battery lifting tool, baking soda with brush and dipping container and a can of battery terminal spray coating

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Old 12-01-2016, 10:45 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fblainen11 View Post
That's why I go to Walmart for batteries. Quality counts......
quality counts.....so you go to wal mart?



OP, you can have your auto shop test the new battery to make sure its working properly. they usually do it for free.
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:43 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnT4R View Post
quality counts.....so you go to wal mart?



OP, you can have your auto shop test the new battery to make sure its working properly. they usually do it for free.


I take testing with a grain of salt. I've had two motorcycle batteries go bad and upon testing, they actually tested good! apparently one cell went bad in them and when testing, it shows full charge, tests correct when under load but would not start the bike. Had it happen with a car battery before too.

I'd grab a known good battery from a different vehicle just for the sake of testing and seeing if it does the same thing.
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:55 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnT4R View Post
quality counts.....so you go to wal mart?



OP, you can have your auto shop test the new battery to make sure its working properly. they usually do it for free.
There's no basis to these findings. I think it varies based on where you live. They are all produced by Johnson Controls. My findings in the NYC area? Duralast Gold batteries are very good, as are the Walmart Everstart Max, which is also much cheaper. You can get what I've been running in various cars in various sizes. The Costco red label batteries used to be my top pick, but ever since they switched to the Interstate branding, they've turned to shit. They all leak from the terminals within a month after installation. Not just basing off of my experience, but what a few mechanics have told me as well.
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:49 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoombyu86 View Post
I take testing with a grain of salt. I've had two motorcycle batteries go bad and upon testing, they actually tested good! apparently one cell went bad in them and when testing, it shows full charge, tests correct when under load but would not start the bike. Had it happen with a car battery before too.

I'd grab a known good battery from a different vehicle just for the sake of testing and seeing if it does the same thing.
That's interesting, I've never had that happen. Usually when I have trouble cold starting I swing by Parts City(owned by family friends) and they test, if they say its questionable I just replace it. Not worth pinching pennies and getting stranded somewhere in the winter...


Quote:
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There's no basis to these findings. I think it varies based on where you live. They are all produced by Johnson Controls. My findings in the NYC area? Duralast Gold batteries are very good, as are the Walmart Everstart Max, which is also much cheaper. You can get what I've been running in various cars in various sizes. The Costco red label batteries used to be my top pick, but ever since they switched to the Interstate branding, they've turned to shit. They all leak from the terminals within a month after installation. Not just basing off of my experience, but what a few mechanics have told me as well.
This is definitely news to me. Had no idea they make batteries? our wal mart is dogsh*t and I wouldn't buy anything auto related from them.

Also just my .02, but I'd much rather support locally owned business than feed the conglomerate.
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:54 PM #13
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[QUOTE=MtnT4R;2539404]That's interesting, I've never had that happen. Usually when I have trouble cold starting I swing by Parts City(owned by family friends) and they test, if they say its questionable I just replace it. Not worth pinching pennies and getting stranded somewhere in the winter...


Yea it was weird. My bike broke down a few blocks from an interstate shop. So i walked my happy-self and bought a battery that was sitting on their shelf a while and borrowed some tools and it didn't work. Mine you, I watched the guy test the battery when i bought it. took it back and tested it again, tested fine. By this time someone picked me up and I tried it again. Nope, didnt work. Then it dawned on me that it didn't spark when connecting the ground.

Took it back and told him the battery is bad, he tested again. Looked good. I then stuck a screwdriver across the terminals with no spark. He still said it was good because it tested good...I then realized hes an idiot, got my refund and left.
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:36 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twa318 View Post
So we had the first "cold" morning of the year last week (40 degrees) and the 4runner wouldn't start. The interior lights came on, but when I turned the key the starter would just make a rapid clicking sound and wouldn't turn over. I couldn't get the truck to jump either.

I looked at the sticker on the battery and it was 9 years old! So I went to autozone, swapped out the battery and the truck fired right up HOWEVER now when I start it up there is a rapid "clicking" sound. The 4runner starts right up but the clicking sound is terrible.

My question is, this never happened before the battery died, is it possible that I damaged the starter when I was trying to crank it without enough battery power?
Doubt there was damage to the starter. I had something similar happen and just had to get a new battery. Could also be just coincidence that your starter is failing at the same time. Starters and 4runners dont get along.
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:50 PM #15
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Walmart Batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnT4R View Post
quality counts.....so you go to wal mart?

OP, you can have your auto shop test the new battery to make sure its working properly. they usually do it for free.
Walmart batteries have never given me any sort of issues. Also comes with 5-year warranty (3- years full and 2- prorated)

Right now a 24F battery is $93.... hard to beat the price too!
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