Hey all:

Been having some issues with the trusty truck lately. After installing an oiled K&N filter a year or so back, I started having some issues with the truck dying while stopped or slowing driving, and then issues starting and dying immediately. I cleaned the MAF ('98 style) with some cleaner, and it's been running and regulating a lot better. I did run it for a few miles to limp it home with the MAF unplugged...

But it's been running great for about a week.

Now, the rear window drops as soon as I start the car. Even with the window lock button on. The idle is getting rougher, and the voltage (according to my Ultragauge) is about 12.4 volts instead of 13.8-14.1. Having difficulty starting as well. Starting to get a loud whistle upon starting, but attributed it to the rear glass track squealing...

I've tried to search around a bit, but I've not found much help. Some have suggested bad wiring wearing out between the body and the rear hatch, but I had the rear cover off a few months ago, and everything looked good. I haven't opened it much since then. Battery and alternator are new as of a year ago.

What could be causing this? Thanks for any direction - not used to worrying about the reliability of this. :/

Years ago on a camping trip I found the rear window down and refusing to go up with any switches. I managed a bush-fix to get the window up and disconnected the motor once it was up.
At home I diagnosed the issue to do with the little wire harness slip ring that the key operates inside the hatch. I removed the little harness and the window has been fine ever since (although I can't roll it down with the key anymore, still operates fine with the dash switch).
Open up the hatch panel and disconnect this harness at the grey connector to see if your problems are solved.

@sportscarfan :

I would be very curious to hear how you got the window up in the bush - as I've often wondered about how to get that up. Sounds like you found a way to power the motor and unplugged it to kill it, as you said.

As soon as the rig starts, the window drops. But each time I do it, the idle and the difficulty starting is getting worse.

I'll look for this in the daylight tomorrow, thanks for the suggestion!

EDIT: IT WORKED.

Wow, I'm impressed. Thank you, @sportscarfan ! Everything is back to normal! I was wanting to fix this so I got out there tonight and took it all apart. Took some finangaling to get at the connector and get it apart, but now it is working better, just by taking the grey plug apart.

Do you think this is a bad wire or such? I would like to keep the tailgate functionality if possible - perhaps I can look into replacing it.

#7 on the parts diagram - associated with the lock cylinder...
https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/pa...iagram=8414555

~$95. #6905535070 for the rear door lock cylinder and sensor wire. Not sure if the issue is with the wire itself, or the lock cylinder messed up...

Wow, glad to hear that it worked!!
I think the issue is inside the green slip ring portion of that mini harness where it connects to the lock cylinder. I made a weak effort to clean/repair mine, but it didn't work out and opening the rear window with the key wasn't worth the replacement cost to me. In fact, the mini harness still sits on my desk today...

As far as my bush fix, whenever venturing away from civilization, I have a dedicated tool bag that I take along. Inside, basic tools, and I happened to throw in my roll of tie wire (16ga bare steel wire) on that trip. So, with the rear hatch panel off, motor disconnected, key off...I ran a length of the bare wire from the (+) terminal on the battery taking the obvious precautions all the way back to the open hatch. Sketchy, I know. I used gloves and whatever else I had to insulate the bare wire along its way out of the engine bay. I cut another short length and ran to a convenient ground back there somewhere. Direct power to the motor in the correct direction, and up went the window!

My advice here.. ditch the oiled K&N filter. I've read that the 3rd gens' intake tract (MAF, IAC, TB, Manifold) are prone to having adverse or unwanted effects from an oiled air filter. Sh!t gets gummed up and clogged up.

If it was a consequence of power gained, that would be one thing, but using an oil type air filter gives negligible power gains, so it's best to just stick with OEM air filters IMO.