12-16-2016, 03:18 AM
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#1
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Am I too picky?
Been having a variety of problems with my '96 lately. They're all pretty small things but have added up and really pissed me off overall.
First of which is the key getting stuck on "ACC". Have probably posted this about 4 times now lol. Found threads about 3 months ago about changing out the shifter bushings. So I ordered bushings, replaced all 4 and the problem went away for about 2 months. But a month or so ago it came back and has been sporadic since then. I really am just tempted to snip the wire that connects to the park sensor, but then I would be able to remove the key in any gear, which isnt ideal.
Second problem is my transmission clunk. Whenever I go from reverse to drive and vice versa, my transmissions makes a fairly loud "clunk". As soon as it clunks and shifts, my RPMs drop way down to around 500ish (lower than it should be) for 1-2 seconds, then when i let off the brake and let it roll it goes back up to normal (around 650). I have a voltage indicator, and whenever i am going slow or stopped in drive/reverse it gets down to around 12ish volts. Normally is about 13.7 (pretty good). Would this be a kickdown cable problem?
Finally is my shakiness, if you wanna call it that. Basically whenever it's warmed up and sitting in drive or reverse, it is idling steady around 650ish rpms. But there is a horrible shake that shakes the whole car, its actually really annoying. Makes all sorts of things vibrate and make noise. But as soon as I go or put it in park (idles at like 750 rpms in park) the shake goes away. Probably need to clean my IAC and throttle body?
Any input on any of this stuff would be greatly appreciated. This 4runner is my DD and these little things just really tick me off. Im sure lots of you can relate.
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12-16-2016, 03:31 AM
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#2
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I currently have a 96 with just over 250. I have had a 93 with 200 and a 95 with 260. Both ran great...except after rolling them over....well they were parts rigs then.
#1....25 bucks and a new tumbler set....problem solved. I have the same issue and I had the same issue. My 95 with 200 did the same thing...put in a new tumbler set...problem solved....other then two keys instead of one. (Door and ignition)
#2...not super mechanical but search and ask specific here. You will find the solution. Sounds like probably a U joint or other is worn. Mine drops RPM after putting in gear....just not the loud clunk. Dropping RPM is normal as now you have the tranny engaged (automatic) and pumping fluid without moving.
#3 From what you describe you have a serious miss. Again specify and ask that topic and people will help.
Good luck and hope she runs another 100k!
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He who Shi% fast does not Shi% for long!!
BILSTEIN CUSTOMER SERVICE SUCKS MUNG COVERED BALLS!!!
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12-16-2016, 03:46 AM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reelamin
I currently have a 96 with just over 250. I have had a 93 with 200 and a 95 with 260. Both ran great...except after rolling them over....well they were parts rigs then.
#1....25 bucks and a new tumbler set....problem solved. I have the same issue and I had the same issue. My 95 with 200 did the same thing...put in a new tumbler set...problem solved....other then two keys instead of one. (Door and ignition)
#2...not super mechanical but search and ask specific here. You will find the solution. Sounds like probably a U joint or other is worn. Mine drops RPM after putting in gear....just not the loud clunk. Dropping RPM is normal as now you have the tranny engaged (automatic) and pumping fluid without moving.
#3 From what you describe you have a serious miss. Again specify and ask that topic and people will help.
Good luck and hope she runs another 100k!
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Thanks so much for the input! Yeah i'm at 190k and definitely seeing the age show.
Just to clarify for the key stuck problem, it only happens when turning the car off. AKA i wont turn past ACC so i can remove it. If i cycle the shifter from park to drive and back a few times with the engine off (key still in) the sometimes something will click and it will come right out. And if i disconnect the battery it comes right out.
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12-16-2016, 03:53 AM
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#4
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Tumblers are worn....its all in the key tumbler set. Promise!! Hit your local wrecking yard...negotiate the price...as they always start at 50% of new. That is one problem solved. LOL....what else can we expect....just drug home a 14 with 24k....yes im and idiot...but I love me some 4 runner!
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12-16-2016, 09:31 AM
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#5
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Elite Member
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Your rig is 20 years old. Expect issues till the day you sell it. Just be glad it's less issues than most other 20 year old vehicles.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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12-16-2016, 09:39 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
Your rig is 20 years old. Expect issues till the day you sell it. Just be glad it's less issues than most other 20 year old vehicles.
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Agreed. I have a 1973 Honda motorcycle and it definitely has its problems. But in the end its still pretty damn reliable for a daily and still more fun than my modern bikes. Much like my 2000 4R in comparison to my 2014 Mazda.
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12-16-2016, 10:44 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoombyu86
Agreed. I have a 1973 Honda motorcycle and it definitely has its problems. But in the end its still pretty damn reliable for a daily and still more fun than my modern bikes. Much like my 2000 4R in comparison to my 2014 Mazda.
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My first motorcycle was a 1973 Honda CB350. Paid $500 for it in 1978. I was 16. I still have a 78 CB125! But I hate Hondas these days.
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2001 2WD SR5 3.4 <-- My daughter's...see preceding line.
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12-16-2016, 10:47 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IBallEngineer
My first motorcycle was a 1973 Honda CB350. Paid $500 for it in 1978. I was 16. I still have a 78 CB125! But I hate Hondas these days.
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Agreed! Honda was really good up to early 2000s. Fun reliable cars and bikes. Not so much anymore.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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12-16-2016, 10:50 AM
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#9
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Do you have another key to try? One of my keys is so worn I can pull it out when the truck is on, so it's def not sticky.
For the clunk, check your rear trans mount on the cross member, kind of looks like a wide U and has a big rubber bushing. Those will tear eventually. You can try greasing your u-joints and slip yoke and see if that offers any improvement.
Do you have a 4 cyl or 6cyl? I've noticed a lot of 4cyl are a little less smooth.
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-2005 4Runner Limited V8 AWD - Toytec Boss Suspension, SPC UCAs, 285/70/17 Level 8 MK Wheels (17x8, -10), Tandem Rock Sliders
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12-16-2016, 10:52 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
Agreed! Honda was really good up to early 2000s. Fun reliable cars and bikes. Not so much anymore.
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I thought it was just me. I had a 93 and a 98 loaded accord. The accord was awesome, smooth, lots of power, quiet interior. I drive my buddies newer accord now, and it just seems like a loud pile. The last Honda sport bike I had (2004) was awesome though.
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-2005 4Runner Limited V8 AWD - Toytec Boss Suspension, SPC UCAs, 285/70/17 Level 8 MK Wheels (17x8, -10), Tandem Rock Sliders
-1998 LX470 (Stock)
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12-16-2016, 11:37 AM
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#11
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Am I too picky?
I disagree that it's a tumbler issue, myself.
Have you checked both ends of the park safety cable? Is there any kind of adjustment? Maybe you'll see something not right once you get eyes on both ends.
As far as your shakiness, have you done a tune up with new plugs/OEM wires recently? Maybe your spark is having a hard time jumping the gap at the lower RPM with the load of the torque converter. My 3.4 idles at the same RPM as yours, and is at the same RPM while in gear- so that's normal RPM.
The clunk has to be annoying. Mine makes a slight clunk when I let off the brakes sometimes, but that sounds different than your clunk. Have you changed the trans filter and put fresh fluid in? I wouldn't expect that to be the problem, but I think thats where I would start. Does it do it sitting still? Maybe you could risk your life, and have someone operate the trans while you're underneath. See if you could tell where it's coming from(trans, diff, driveline, mounts, etc).
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12-16-2016, 02:07 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reelamin
Tumblers are worn....its all in the key tumbler set. Promise!! Hit your local wrecking yard...negotiate the price...as they always start at 50% of new. That is one problem solved. LOL....what else can we expect....just drug home a 14 with 24k....yes im and idiot...but I love me some 4 runner!
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Right on!! Will be hitting up the junkyard this weekend then. Or maybe i could get my current tumbler "rebuilt" by a locksmith?
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12-16-2016, 02:09 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXLX1
Do you have another key to try? One of my keys is so worn I can pull it out when the truck is on, so it's def not sticky.
For the clunk, check your rear trans mount on the cross member, kind of looks like a wide U and has a big rubber bushing. Those will tear eventually. You can try greasing your u-joints and slip yoke and see if that offers any improvement.
Do you have a 4 cyl or 6cyl? I've noticed a lot of 4cyl are a little less smooth.
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Ive got a 4 cyl. And yeah these keys are almost brand new, got them made when i first got the car. I checked the trans mount and theres lots of grease all over it. Looks a bit cracked and torn. That might be the issue. And i'll try greasing my u joints as well.
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12-16-2016, 02:12 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler James Inc
I disagree that it's a tumbler issue, myself.
Have you checked both ends of the park safety cable? Is there any kind of adjustment? Maybe you'll see something not right once you get eyes on both ends.
As far as your shakiness, have you done a tune up with new plugs/OEM wires recently? Maybe your spark is having a hard time jumping the gap at the lower RPM with the load of the torque converter. My 3.4 idles at the same RPM as yours, and is at the same RPM while in gear- so that's normal RPM.
The clunk has to be annoying. Mine makes a slight clunk when I let off the brakes sometimes, but that sounds different than your clunk. Have you changed the trans filter and put fresh fluid in? I wouldn't expect that to be the problem, but I think thats where I would start. Does it do it sitting still? Maybe you could risk your life, and have someone operate the trans while you're underneath. See if you could tell where it's coming from(trans, diff, driveline, mounts, etc).
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Thanks for the response! Where is this "park safety cable" you speak of? I feel like its more of a shift interlock problem, since the key will sometimes come out if i shake the shifter around in park.
As for the clunk, i havent changed the fluid or filter. Might do a pan drop and a full flush pretty soon. And yeah i know the clunk you're talking about when you let off the brakes, mine does that sometimes too when i brake hard.
I have a 2.7L, i put in new plugs when i first got it. Not wires though. I have a new PCV valve ready to go in as well, will probably get to it this weekend.
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12-16-2016, 02:18 PM
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#15
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The shift interlock is what I called the "park safety cable". I believe my shift interlock is a cable that runs from my shifter to the ignition lock. I may be remembering a different vehicle, but I thought it was the 4Runner.
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