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Old 01-24-2017, 07:36 PM #16
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I need to do trans and XFR case linkage the PCM connector above the glove box and figure out how to get to the drivers side rear motor mount bolt. And it's ready for extraction and to see what I forgot.


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Old 01-27-2017, 01:49 AM #17
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Well the 2002 FSM I have makes it seem so simple to remove the "engine mounting insulator bolts".

And I must come up with something for the attachment point on the passenger side for the hoist chain.


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Old 01-27-2017, 02:18 AM #18
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Vey cool. It's always nice to see Frankenrunners. Good luck and keep us posted
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97 SR5 4runner: 2" OME Lift, rear E-Locker, 231mm Tundra Brakes, 203K, B&M 70264 Tranny Cooler, Duratracs

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Old 02-01-2017, 06:20 PM #19
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I got the drivers side rear bolt off. It took 20min through the wheel well like Durk mentioned. The bolt head and nut were rusted enough they were in between the 14mm and 13mm. The 14mm and 9/16 were a loose fit but held well enough to get it done.

The shock tower was defiantly pushed in towards the exhaust manifold.


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Old 02-03-2017, 01:55 PM #20
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I wanted to have the engine and trans pulled before I started my work stretch tonight. But rusting through a rear brake line (again) on my Cummins directed my garage time elsewhere. And I had to do all the brake line work out in the cold. My garage is full.


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Old 02-08-2017, 06:00 PM #21
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

This is the Rad I pulled out of the wrecked 96. It looks like a keeper if the 97's looks like the original.


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Old 02-10-2017, 05:26 PM #22
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It's time to assemble the cherry picker and remove trans crossmember and see if I forgot anything.

Hopefully tomorrow my brother can help pull engine.


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Old 02-12-2017, 05:04 PM #23
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

It's out.

I know this. I won't be pulling everything together on the 97. Way too long.

My Twin (identical) with the beard and a friend Tom.


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Old 02-20-2017, 06:47 PM #24
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

I tried removing the rear crossover exhaust pipe. Those stainless nuts on the studs electroplated themselves to the studs. Heat (cherry red) did nothing. I'm going to drill out and re-tap the 10mm holes. I need to find a 11/32 drill bit in my collection. Sadly I'm not holding too much hope. Those studs twisted off too easily.

It will be disappointing if new manifolds plus the crossover pipe will need purchased. Umm headers?

I get the parts are old and rusty............


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Old 02-22-2017, 03:05 PM #25
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Starting the exhaust stud replacement. They are not perfect.....but within 1/32" of the original hole.

Edit: reading some other posts on those stainless nuts etc it looks like I should have cut them off. Some (like me) broke them or ripped threads off studs. I'm tapping to the same 10mm thread. But read that the studs may be left hand threads where they go to the manifold.

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Old 02-28-2017, 04:53 PM #26
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Finished with the exhaust manifold studs.

I'll need 1 nut and bolt. Next are the 3 broken studs on the crossover pipe for the CAT.

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Old 03-16-2017, 06:26 PM #27
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Today I finally got time to split the engine and trans and get it on the engine stand.

For those reading this looking for the correct bolts for the engine stand I purchased 12mm 1.25 pitch and 90mm long bolts at my local ace hardware. They were 5 dollars each. I'm impressed they had them. (They ((bolts for engine stand))happen to be the same size and length as the bolts for the upper control arms on my Cummins. I already had 1).

The odd ball location of the bell housing bolt holes prevented me from centering the pivot of the engine stand on the crank. It's about 2" above it.



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Old 03-18-2017, 03:36 PM #28
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Furthering this thing along I labeled engine harness connectors and started removing the harness. The only plug that gave me problems and broke was the oil pressure switch. So now two need replaced. The oil pressure switch and the 4WD indicator plug I forgot to unplug removing the engine.

Was pleasantly surprised to see how clean the intake plenum was after I removed the throttle body in preparation for removing the intake halves......I expected the black buildup from condensed PCV gasses in there since there is no fuel spray to keep it washed clean.


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Old 03-19-2017, 05:22 PM #29
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Today I finished removing the wiring harness, pulled valve covers, and measured valve clearance. All my intake valves are ok there are a few exhaust valves that are loose. One at .021 two at .016 and two at .015. I may leave the .015's alone. So next step is to remove the exhaust cams and measure the shims and get replacements.

I also had the thumb wheel nut on my feeler gauge set come off and fall into one of the oil return ports between cylinder 4 & 6. Removing the exhaust cam will let me get it with a long magnet.

With 230,000 miles on this engine it looks real clean.


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Old 03-20-2017, 05:19 PM #30
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Today I removed the exhaust cams and did the final math for the 3 valves that were loose. I also got the little thumb wheel nut that fell off the feeler gauge set.

According to the micrometer readings I had 1 puck at 2.95mm and 2 that were tweaners at 2.975mm.

The exhaust valve with the 2.95 shim had 020 thou clearance. To make it .014 clearance would take a 3.07 and to make it .012 clearance would make it 3.15mm. I'm splitting the difference and getting a 3.10mm shim for that valve since they only come in .05mm increments.

The exhaust valves with the 2.975 shims both measure .016 clearance. So to get .014 it would take a 3.02mm shim and to get .012 clearance would take a 3.07mm shim. So I'll get two 3.05mm shims.


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