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Old 03-20-2017, 06:23 PM #31
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

I don't know what the double dots on the cam gears mean but that's where I put them to remove the exhaust cams. One nice thing is that only one cylinder on the drivers side was depressing a exhaust valve and none on the passenger side were depressed.


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Old 03-21-2017, 11:50 AM #32
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I just ordered the shims from the dealer. 7.95 each. Not bad and they will be here tomorrow morning.


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Old 03-29-2017, 11:14 AM #33
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So I finally got around to torquing the right exhaust cam in and this happened.......
The tightest is ever got was snug. These cams were out before.


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Old 03-29-2017, 03:05 PM #34
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As luck would have it the exact same bolt on other exhaust cam won't tighten either. It's the end cap with the thrust bearing. Both holes are sleeved for alignment so I don't think taping out to 8mm will work. I doubt the 8mm will pass through the alignment sleeve.

So now I'm scouring (spelled wrong) Lebanon PA looking for longer 7mm X 1.00 pitch bolts or all thread. I'd like to stud the holes with 7mm if possible. Even if that means ordering it.


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Old 03-29-2017, 07:22 PM #35
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

I found 50mm long bolts that are threaded all the way to the head. I think I can cut the head off and it will be long enough to be a stud. Tomorrow I will know the deal. If they are not long enough then it's the local MSC or Fastenall for some all thread or bolts threaded to 75mm.

There looks to be at least 3/8" of thread the bolt never reached in the bottom of the hole. I paid around a 2.50 for the 4 Bolts.


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Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 03-29-2017 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 03-29-2017, 10:06 PM #36
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

So to have a way out if the 50mm long bolts are too short......I found all thread 1 meter long and a heli-coil kit. They are both around the same price. 26 ish for the all thread I can cut to length. Or around 29 for the heli-coil kit.

Edit: I have 2 more 3.4l's to do valve adjustments too so the all thread may be the best choice. And if I pull the rest of the threads out of the head then it's heli-coil time.


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Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 03-29-2017 at 10:38 PM.
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Old 03-30-2017, 06:02 PM #37
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19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Today I made studs and installed both exhaust cams. For those in the need to know......the two dots and 1 dot on the cams help you install them without depressing any valves during instal and torquing. One side it two dots (right) and other is 1 dot (left)It was butt pucker time torquing the studs and hoping they would hold.

Checked the clearance on the 3 exhaust valves after replacing shims with larger ones. (All 3 are .011 to .012).

Also cleaned valve cover gasket surfaces to prep for putting on the valve covers. I start my 5 day work stretch tomorrow. So that's it till after next Wednesday.


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Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 03-30-2017 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 03-31-2017, 12:54 PM #38
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Half of me wants to take my ratty corroded and black from oil stains valve covers to work and bead blast them. Then flush them in the parts washer real good


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Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 03-31-2017 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 04-01-2017, 02:43 PM #39
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Last night I bead blasted the nasty corrosion and black oil stains off the valve covers. I'll put the new spark plug tube seals in them figure out what color I'm going to paint them.


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Old 04-01-2017, 09:49 PM #40
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I also used my pull weight scale to test my brothers torque wrenches. His inch pound wrench I set to 144 and the scale shown 12.03 lbs or force to make it klick.

His foot pound wrench I set to 20 and it took 19.30 lbs of pull to make it klick. When I looked at the dial I wasn't quite on 20 when I tested it so the 19.3 was pretty close.

I shot videos of the two tests but haven't figured out how to imbed a video into the thread.


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Old 04-05-2017, 07:57 PM #41
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So it's off stretch time. Hammered the spark plug tube seals into the valve covers and sprayed them with simple clear lacquer.

Used a spare nut for the front CV shafts as the seal installation tool and my auto body hammer.


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Old 04-05-2017, 09:43 PM #42
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This is a thought provoking question should I even think about replacing the rear main seal?


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Old 04-07-2017, 04:19 PM #43
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Today I installed Valve Covers new spark plugs and tried to get the broken studs out of the crossover pipe where the CAT bolts to it.

Big fail using heat. So it's drill and tap like the exhaust manifolds.

Edit. I did put the rubber washers on the VC bolts. Couldn't find them at the time I put blue rtv on the half moons so I just ran the bolts and made them snug to keep them on position.


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Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 04-07-2017 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 04-09-2017, 10:34 PM #44
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Well today I drilled out the twisted off crossover studs and installed the spark plug wires. My favorite Bosch Premium wire set isn't sold at autozone anymore so I got their Duralast Gold set. they came preassembled with anchors etc. they are Mag Core so they should be the same low resistance steel core wire set I got with the Bosch set. I really mean pre-assembled. What is shown in the pictures is how they came out of the box. I did nothing but plug them into their respective coil.

Anyone ever watch Electric Company.....the game of which one doesn't belong? I think I'll order a Denso coil and keep the China coil as a get home spare.


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Old 04-15-2017, 09:44 AM #45
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I went to tap the crossover stud holes and it looks like I'll be using through bolts in them. At least two anyway. One hole drifted off center too much and one the hole is too big for the threads.

It's time to pull (push) the red runner in the garage and start yanking the engine.


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