[19963.4lsr5]

Oil change and spark plug change out. I’ll do plugs tomorrow while my honey is sleeping. I’ll post plug pictures hoping all plugs have an even signature from my injector rebuild.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Spark plug time. First change on new engine.
The really long extension.










It looks like all plugs are burning even. Which means all cylinders seem balanced wise with injector flow rate. Which is good since I cleaned and rebuilt the injectors myself.

Gap erosion is just over .050 thou.


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[19963.4lsr5]

I’ll also add I went 1 heat range colder using Denso plugs equal to an NGK in heat range 6.

With the block and heads decked for the rebuild I figure my compression went up whatever .012-.015 worth of head shaving.


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[19963.4lsr5]

So I’m replacing my Rear Lower Control arms with SPC performance units and ran across this.

Thoughts? The micrometer shows the shouldered bolt at 12.93mm on both ends and middle of the shoulder part.
The bolt that looks like it was threaded the entire length shows the same specs.



My helper


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[Skulking]

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

So I’m replacing my Rear Lower Control arms with SPC performance units and ran across this.

Thoughts? The micrometer shows the shouldered bolt at 12.93mm on both ends and middle of the shoulder part.
The bolt that looks like it was threaded the entire length shows the same specs.



My helper


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Can you confirm that the measurements you gave are on the non threaded portion only? Assuming yes, what are the dimensions of the threaded portion? Looking at that I'm guessing it is a 19mm head and an M14-1.5 bolt. If that is the case, how loose were your old lower control arms when you pulled them? To me that looks like the threads have been worn down by a loose bushing/ sleeve.

[19963.4lsr5]

Well I figured out why I thought I needed lower control arm bushings…..

The frame is shot just above the lower control arm mount.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Originally Posted by Skulking

Can you confirm that the measurements you gave are on the non threaded portion only? Assuming yes, what are the dimensions of the threaded portion? Looking at that I'm guessing it is a 19mm head and an M14-1.5 bolt. If that is the case, how loose were your old lower control arms when you pulled them? To me that looks like the threads have been worn down by a loose bushing/ sleeve.

Yes the measurements I posted are the non threaded portion of the bolt. Paint is still intact which to means no worn metal portion.

I found why I thought the bushings were bad. The frame above the passenger side lower control arm mount is Swiss Cheese. It’s time for the repair sleeve like I did to the drivers side a few years ago.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Well I’m going to Norfolk for my ships (USS SanJacinto CG-56) 35 anniversary. By the time I get back the repair sleeve from safety cap should be here and I’ll start working on it. I took vacation next week so I’ll have a solid week to work on it before I go back to work two Wednesdays from now.


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[19963.4lsr5]

So work has kept me from putting the running board back on. But I’ll admit I like the clean lines without it.

Does the running board help protect the rocker panel?


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[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

So work has kept me from putting the running board back on. But I’ll admit I like the clean lines without it.

Does the running board help protect the rocker panel?


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Yes big time. The running boards protect the rockers. They also protect the doors too. Glad to see your rolling again. Does it track well?

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[19963.4lsr5]

My wheel is to the right with tire noise.

My front inner tread is cupping which I think means it’s toe out or the top of my wheels are tipped in. It has nothing to do with the work on the rear lower control arm. I had new bushings put in the front lowers and an alignment two or three years ago.

Next Tuesday it goes on the rack…..


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[19963.4lsr5]

Until July my off time will be limited. A coworker is getting both his shoulders replaced. My rear axle seal has been on again off again leaking for the last two years and I can’t get away with not fixing it for inspection any longer.

I found a good used left rear complete axle from a Toyota scrapper in Arizona. I’ll install this with a new seal in the housing with a new wheel cylinder, brake shoes, and brake hose.

I’ll then rebuild it at my leisure.



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[brillo_76]

Good deal. At least you will stop the leak..

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[Zhehan]

You mentioned "cupping" on your tires in the front. Cupping usually means bad shocks. Even wear on the edges of the tires, either inner or outer, usually means improper Camber adjustment. But, tread edges that are individual cups of wear is usually bad shocks. How old are the front struts?

EDIT: Tread "Feathering" is poor Toe adjustment or worn Tie Rods.

[19963.4lsr5]

Looking at it in the daylight they look like normal tread blocks. Not ramped etc….



Edit: just checked tire pressure. It was 25psi on all four corners. I thought I put them up to 32 for the winter. Guess not. It may have contributed to my tire noise.



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