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Old 04-15-2017, 10:29 AM #46
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I also started prepping the center caps for paint.


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Old 04-16-2017, 07:21 PM #47
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Started painting the center caps.


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Old 04-16-2017, 07:22 PM #48
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Those turned out great. What are your plans for the toyota logo?
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97 SR5 4runner: 2" OME Lift, rear E-Locker, 231mm Tundra Brakes, 203K, B&M 70264 Tranny Cooler, Duratracs

Build
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:25 PM #49
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Red or something. That's a good question........


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Old 04-16-2017, 07:27 PM #50
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This was done a few years ago to the 97 puppy hauler. Finished and I didn't do anything with the logo on them.


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Old 04-26-2017, 06:26 PM #51
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

And so it begins.

The kiddy pool stays.


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Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 04-26-2017 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 04-27-2017, 08:37 PM #52
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My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Started doing the stuff necessary to pull engine this afternoon.

This is what I know needs done yet:

Remove stupid skid plate
Remove exhaust from crossover.
Remove starter and harness from block
Unbolt drivers side motor mount
Unbolt torque converter
Unbolt bell housing bolts
Unbolt fuel lines.

I searched for engine wiring harness plastic covers that bolt to the valve covers. Figuring while the main harness is lying over the drivers fender I could replace the broken plastic.

Nope, it appears the main engine harness is no longer available. Let alone it's protective covers.


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Old 04-28-2017, 04:46 PM #53
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All that's left is left rear motor mount bolt and the torque converter bolts.

I must regroup. I have no clue how to get to the drivers side dust cover bolts shy of dropping the front diff and or steering rack.

Going to Google my brains out finding a answer.


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Old 04-28-2017, 09:17 PM #54
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So regrouping I've discovered those inspection bolts are going to suck the big one. It may take a few hours and some tool trips to get my last 9 bolts out.

2 inspection cover bolts
6 TQ converter bolts
1 drivers rear motor mount bolt.


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Old 05-04-2017, 04:25 PM #55
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Required bell housing bolt removal tools.

Those 6 bolts were one of the easier jobs


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Old 05-05-2017, 01:22 PM #56
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Omg doing last minute stuff before the engine extraction team shows up. And I seen this!


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Old 05-05-2017, 01:49 PM #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
All that's left is left rear motor mount bolt and the torque converter bolts.

I must regroup. I have no clue how to get to the drivers side dust cover bolts shy of dropping the front diff and or steering rack.

Going to Google my brains out finding a answer.


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I dropped the 2 long bolts out the front of the diff and rolled the the diff down and was a lot easier that way.
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Old 05-05-2017, 09:17 PM #58
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Originally Posted by JackedYota View Post
I dropped the 2 long bolts out the front of the diff and rolled the the diff down and was a lot easier that way.


I thought about doing something with the Diff. May still do it.


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Old 05-05-2017, 09:31 PM #59
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So by the picture there are two engines on stands.
After pulling the engine and putting it on the stand I started swapping over things to the 96 engine.

1) The crossover pipe was first. And all the nuts came off without braking or ripping threads off the studs.

2) swap over the engine mounts from the engine I pulled to the engine I'm installing.

**************Incase anyone here is curious the AC compressor and mount must come off to remove the passenger side engine mount bracket.

Tomorrow I'll put the 96 engine on the cherry picker and do the rear main seal.

Since I forgot to remove the harness bolt from the drivers side motor mount I ended up pulling the pins out of the connector for the front diff 4wd indicator. Darn it!!!!

Other than forgetting the harness bolt on motor mount for Trans portion of the wire harness. And the starter harness giving me grief trying to unclip it from the harness bracket there was/were no supprise's.


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Old 05-06-2017, 03:11 PM #60
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I dropped the 2 long bolts out the front of the diff and rolled the the diff down and was a lot easier that way.


Removing the two bolts in the front frame for the diff I see. Which way did you rotate it. It looks like a bolt goes through the top of the housing at the front yoke. How did you rotate it? It's busy in there and don't see moving it much either way.


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