[19963.4lsr5]

My 70a alt I rebuilt on this thread was putting out 41a at idle in gear at 600rpm with headlights on and fan on speed 3. Voltage at the battery was 12.7v and with that condition 2.5a was being supplied by the battery

It needed brushes and a new diode block. Before I replaced the diode block (bridge rectifier) I thought the voltage regulator was the problem. I questioned how well the regulator was preforming.

My spare 80a Alt under the same conditions was at 13.1v. I did not get to check the amp output yet. Hopefully this weekend.


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[19963.4lsr5]

This morning was 40 degrees outside. Same load test as before was 13.3 to 13.5v. So the temp compensated voltage regulator has something to do with it I’m sure. It had plenty of time to get to operating temp on my 31 mile drive home this morning.

Also I herd detonation on my way to work at 50mph. Not good.


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[19963.4lsr5]

I purchased a ScanGauge for permanent mounting in my 4Runner.

I hopped on their website to see what was available for PID’s and picked various Air Fuel Ratios to play with.

Of coarse none of them worked, so I started walking through the memory locations starting at I think 10100 and I’m pretty sure I found it. I’ll post up the actual numbers when I wake up.

One of my observations is that the target AF ratio ramps up from around 7:1 like I expected but the target is really tied to the ECT rather than to time and temp. My engine runs between 188 and 191 degrees. At 191 my gauge will show 14.7, at 188 I show 14.5. That difference is not ever going to be noticed in fuel milage but it’s interesting.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Target AF Ratio for B1S1 for my 97 with the 3.4. It works.

TXD 686AF10105
RXF 044145050000
RXD 2808
MTH 05B900800000
Name A/F

Edit: this is not target AF ratio.


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[19963.4lsr5]

I walked through every memory location from 00 to FF and nothing appeared that looked like a valid trans temp. if i thought it had a chance i put it in gear and power braked to see if the temp went up.

only thing left to do is change the 2808 to something else.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Previous owner couldn’t even replace both shocks at the same time. The blue one is older and leaking.

The sawzaw made quick work of the job. While I was in there I cleaned all the rust and mud out of the upper shock mounts. They were full to the top. I’ll spray a rust proofing oil in the cups and the rear frame area and change the rear axle oil while the back is up in the air.


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[19963.4lsr5]

The interstate battery I bought 3 years ago was suppose to be 800cca and my Midtronics tester had it at 550cca one year after purchase.

It sat in my unheated garage since Monday and this afternoon I figured I’d test the battery. It read good at 427cca and said charge and retry. Battery voltage was 12.04v after sitting 3 days.

I guess it’s time for me to do the amp draw test and see what I find. I also have an excuse to buy a 500a carbon pile load tester.

This battery has been in since I put this rig on the road. It’s never impressed me like other interstate megatron’s have.


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[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

The interstate battery I bought 3 years ago was suppose to be 800cca and my Midtronics tester had it at 550cca one year after purchase.

It sat in my unheated garage since Monday and this afternoon I figured I’d test the battery. It read good at 427cca and said charge and retry. Battery voltage was 12.04v after sitting 3 days.

I guess it’s time for me to do the amp draw test and see what I find. I also have an excuse to buy a 500a carbon pile load tester.

This battery has been in since I put this rig on the road. It’s never impressed me like other interstate megatron’s have.


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My one buddy that owns a mom and pop garage said the quality of interstate has gone down in recent years.


You know how to do the circuit tests that I am sure of.

Should we explain to the other readers how it's done incase they do not know.


By the way, very detailed build thread you have here. Excellent job.

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[19963.4lsr5]

So today I did the parasitic amp draw test because things just were not making sense.

The left meter showing 25ma is the 4Runner. Which is what it should be after the ECU goes to sleep.

The Right meter is the amp draw just from the relay for the factory hella fog lights. That relay is constantly energized. It does not turn off with the fog light switch in the dash. So I’m eliminating the relay. The rocker switch does not operate the relay. I’ll create a new thread on this subject tonight sometime after work settles out.


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[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

So today I did the parasitic amp draw test because things just were not making sense.

The left meter showing 25ma is the 4Runner. Which is what it should be after the ECU goes to sleep.

The Right meter is the amp draw just from the relay for the factory hella fog lights. That relay is constantly energized. It does not turn off with the fog light switch in the dash. So I’m eliminating the relay. The rocker switch does not operate the relay. I’ll create a new thread on this subject tonight sometime after work settles out.


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We have a few circuits constantly energized. So you have the 97 fog lights too with the switch on the dash. My 5 speed has them as well.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Originally Posted by brillo_76

We have a few circuits constantly energized. So you have the 97 fog lights too with the switch on the dash. My 5 speed has them as well.

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The only circuit constantly energized should be the ECU. That’s why you look to make sure your parasitic amp draw is 40ma or less. It’s typical to see 23-25ma on vehicles after their ECU/PCM goes to sleep.

Between the two it’s almost .2a of constant drain on the battery. That adds up over a few days in cold 30 degree weather.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Since people generally don’t follow Build threads I created a thread just for the 96-98 fogs.

Mr Durk confirmed what I was seeing and saved me time in resolving it. I swapped the two hots as per his observation and that fixed it. Hella had the lighting feed and the fog feed swapped backwards in their Fog Light kit, now all is well.

I really hope the Collective can benefit from this. My Ex’s 97 Puppy Hauler still does this. Hee Hee. I’m not saying crap to her about it.

I’m happy I got to use the de-pinning tools I bought. Saved a lot of time.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Today and yesterday I replaced the two front brake hoses. I left the bleeder open on the caliper to let gravity push the air out of the new hose while assembling everything.

The hose on the passenger side was real bad cracks wise. It know longer pulls to the left braking really hard.

I also pulled the passenger side ABS sensor to see if the tip was full of rust. If I am going slow and turn sharp right while on the brakes my ABS activates. There was minor metal on the sensor tip.


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[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

Today and yesterday I replaced the two front brake hoses. I left the bleeder open on the caliper to let gravity push the air out of the new hose while assembling everything.

The hose on the passenger side was real bad cracks wise. It know longer pulls to the left braking really hard.

I also pulled the passenger side ABS sensor to see if the tip was full of rust. If I am going slow and turn sharp right while on the brakes my ABS activates. There was minor metal on the sensor tip.


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I saw some cracks on my 97 flex hoses too. I change them before it's on the road again. It's the one in my frame rebuild bay at the moment.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Driving to work Monday (drove my Saturn Friday through Sunday) I had hard firm pedal feel. So, since it was raining I used them hard. The ABS kicked on easier than I thought and my pedal went soft. Darn air in the ABS module.

Yesterday before work I bled the front brakes again. Got more air out and had good pedal feel even after two ABS activations in the rain. This morning the pedal feel was still very good.


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