03-01-2017, 10:53 PM
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#1
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
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Real Name: Tim
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Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
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Real Name: Tim
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Gentlemen, Check Your Radiator Cap
Hey Dudes,
Today was the 3rd OEM radiator cap I've found that has broken. The spring and another plastic piece that holds the spring in place breaks free of the cap and ends up in your radiator. The parts can't really go anywhere because they're too big to get stuck in the cooling channels but your cap is not going to be working properly.
I not well-versed in radiator cap engineering so I borrowed the following knowledge I found via an internet search:
When the pressure inside the cooling system increases above its psi rating, the pressure cap releases some of the coolant into the overflow tank. It does this by use of a spring loaded valve. Once enough coolant has exited the system to reduce the pressure, the valve closes again.
So Dudes, I suggest you check your radiator cap and see if it's still intact. If you have a decent amount of miles on your rig and your radiator cap is original, I suggest you replace it as preventative maintenance. The obvious time to renew the radiator cap is when you get yourself a new radiator, but if you haven't replaced your radiator yet, replacing the cap soon wouldn't be a bad idea.
In the picture below, the spring and other small plastic piece were inside
@ infamousRNR
old radiator.
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03-01-2017, 10:56 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: CO
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This is normal when they get old. My oem made it 250k miles before it failed.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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03-01-2017, 11:43 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
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They might not show any signs of trouble in normal usage. But work it a little harder than normal, or go up in the mountains, and it can start boiling over.
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'99 Highlander 5-spd manual e-locker no-running-board
SS 3" suspension lift/1" body lift/33" tires/'Snowflake' TRD Taco wheels/231mm Tundra brakes/bumpers/armor/sliders/winch/Sherpa Matterhorn rack
Manual front hubs, NWF Eco-crawler transfer case doubler, second gas tank
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03-01-2017, 11:49 PM
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#4
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: CO
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I'll add I was losing coolant in the over flow. Thought it had a crack. Replaced cap when it failed like above and now my overflow stays full.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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03-02-2017, 12:10 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: The Great PNW
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My experience was the same as
@ JayRolla
- lasted somewhere around 230-240k miles.
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03-02-2017, 12:56 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Nompton Oklahoma
Age: 41
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Real Name: Michael
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Nompton Oklahoma
Age: 41
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I had this exact thing happen to me while on a trip in Colorado this last summer. I had zero issues all trip until we went up Pikes Peak. Towards the top I was boiling over really bad. Once we got back into town I took a look at my radiator cap and realized it was useless, and appears to have been that way for a long time. A quick trip to O'Reilly's had everything going operating as it should again.
It makes sense. When the system is under pressure it can heat up to much higher temps before boiling, but even slightly elevated temps will build enough pressure to start boiling over and bubbling out of the overflow reservoir. The rest of the trip was spent offloading over 6 different Continental Divide passes without a single boiling over incident. I'm actually pretty amazed that I hadn't had that problem sooner considering the condition of my radiator cap.
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03-02-2017, 01:06 AM
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#7
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
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Real Name: Blake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wake_rider
I had this exact thing happen to me while on a trip in Colorado this last summer. I had zero issues all trip until we went up Pikes Peak. Towards the top I was boiling over really bad. Once we got back into town I took a look at my radiator cap and realized it was useless, and appears to have been that way for a long time. A quick trip to O'Reilly's had everything going operating as it should again.
It makes sense. When the system is under pressure it can heat up to much higher temps before boiling, but even slightly elevated temps will build enough pressure to start boiling over and bubbling out of the overflow reservoir. The rest of the trip was spent offloading over 6 different Continental Divide passes without a single boiling over incident. I'm actually pretty amazed that I hadn't had that problem sooner considering the condition of my radiator cap.
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Huh, how ironic. My cap broke on me going through Colorado in January on my move to Arizona. I started seeing white smoke come out of the hood, pulled over and found out the cap had split in two.
Makes sense now why 2 months later my radiator needs replacing.
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2002 Ford Focus ZTS - Toy (Vortech Supercharger, Ksport Coilovers, Team Dynamics Wheels etc etc etc)
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03-02-2017, 01:11 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntsville, AL
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Mine was broke just like the pictures above around 178k when I did my waterpump, timing belt, radiator, etc. Cap broke once I took it off to drain the coolant before swapping radiators. I'm gonna pick up a spare to keep in the truck just incase. Not sure how much OEM vs stant or so is, but I might just get a cheap one that will get me home where I can replace it with an OEM.
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2008 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Salsa Red, DD, Mostly Stock
2001 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4x4 - Not Stock, Lifted, Armored, 300k+ Miles
1987 Toyota Supra N/A - Stock, 2nd Owner
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03-02-2017, 01:18 AM
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#9
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
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Real Name: Jerod
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Some Toyota dealerships offered a "premium" mileage service that included replacing the radiator cap. Seems like they just have a normal lifespan.
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03-02-2017, 10:23 AM
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#10
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
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Real Name: Tim
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Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
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Real Name: Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unner
Mine was broke just like the pictures above around 178k when I did my waterpump, timing belt, radiator, etc. Cap broke once I took it off to drain the coolant before swapping radiators. I'm gonna pick up a spare to keep in the truck just incase. Not sure how much OEM vs stant or so is, but I might just get a cheap one that will get me home where I can replace it with an OEM.
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Good idea to keep one as a spare. The first time I noticed this cap failure on a guy's truck I was working on, I went out and bought myself a new one and kept the old one as a backup.
Some have said this is a normal thing for a radiator cap to fail like this but I've never experienced this before. I've taken two other vehicles to high mileage, 240,000 on a Honda Accord and 325,000 on a Subaru Outback and neither had a radiator cap failure.
@ infamousRNR
rig only has 160,000 miles on it and his failed so it's definitely not just an issue for people with 200k or more miles.
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03-02-2017, 10:46 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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New radiator, cap, LBJs, and TB/WP every 100k miles? Seems perfectly reasonable to me, if you love your 4Runner Maybe throw VC gaskets and PCV/grommet on the 100k mile maintenance interval list too.
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03-02-2017, 12:47 PM
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#12
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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Gentlemen, Check Your Radiator Cap
When I purchased the 97 puppy hauler I noticed the top hose sucked flat when the engine cooled off and found pieces missing. It was a low mileage rig 120,000 miles) but cap was still old.
And I also never had this happen on any other vehicle.
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03-02-2017, 01:36 PM
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#13
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Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2011
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My rule of thumb is OEM, 10 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Like the PCV valve the radiator cap is vital to the health of an engine yet rarely is ever replaced for optimum engine performance.
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03-02-2017, 02:19 PM
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#14
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Florida Panhandle
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Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler James Inc
New radiator, cap, LBJs, and TB/WP every 100k miles? Seems perfectly reasonable to me, if you love your 4Runner Maybe throw VC gaskets and PCV/grommet on the 100k mile maintenance interval list too.
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This is my plan!
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03-02-2017, 02:26 PM
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#15
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unner
Mine was broke just like the pictures above around 178k when I did my waterpump, timing belt, radiator, etc. Cap broke once I took it off to drain the coolant before swapping radiators. I'm gonna pick up a spare to keep in the truck just incase. Not sure how much OEM vs stant or so is, but I might just get a cheap one that will get me home where I can replace it with an OEM.
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Mine broke same way. Drove to parts store for cheap one till I could buy an OEM. That same day I go test drive it, come back and pop hood to find fluid everywhere. I forgot to put that cap back on. Could not find it anywhere, bought a second cheap one.
Few weeks back was doing my belts and found the cap wedged behind the water pump pulley. Now I have a spare. Bet two cheapos wont outlast an OEM thats for sure.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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