All good, I already have them haha. They look like the right ones. Thanks though!

Hello!
I have my brackets and crossmember welded in and paint drying. I was weeding through the thread and never came across a simple filler neck solution. Just wondering if I'm going to be cutting and welding the filler tube as well or if there is a rubber option that just works off a shortened fill tube?

I just dropped my tank out so I might be able to take some pictures once I get home. I had a FN724 Filler Neck and a Gates 24712 2" Fuel hose into the wheel well, the fuel hose needed to be trimmed quite a bit. I'm not sure if this is the best solution, gas leaks out of the cap when the 4runner is at a 45 deg angle... Maybe plumbing the vent correctly will solve that though.

I just finished roughing everything in. I franken-fillered it with the stock rubber and steel fill tubes cut up and hose clamped together. It doesn't look to crazy lol. I was planning on plumbing the fill vent into the Ford breather on top of the tank. How did you run your vent that you think it is causing a leak out the cap?

Random thought....

Long Range America has an aux fuel tank for the rear of our 4Runners. I wonder what they are doing for the hose routing and fuel filler? I wonder if you could purchase their fuel filler and if it would work in conjunction with the F150 tank?

I may just inquire and try to get a photo of their parts list.

There are a bunch of different problems with the way that I plumbed in the tank, I dropped it out to do it right.

• The Ford vent doesn't vent the tank fast enough to fill the tank with gas, gas keeps building up in the filler and runs back out onto the ground.
• Plumbing the Ford vent to the filler vent doesn't vent the tank when it gets hot, I have had gas sprayed on my hand when I opened the cap because it was pressurized.
• When the vehicle is at a 45 or more angle, gas will run up to the filler cap and eventually go through. This is a non-issue if you're not going rock climbing or steep hills.

Now I have to drop the tank out, make sure there's no gas/vapors left in it, and find someone to weld on the thin sheet metal

Fill with water, then dump out the water, then dry it out.

-Charlie

I don't have the part number off hand but the breather I have on my tank is wide open until the breather goes upside down or fuel hits it and it floats up and closes. Could you have a bad breather (stuck closed)?

I welded on the Toyota fill tube adapter which has a little spring loaded door on it. I noticed before I added it that the Ford tank was just a hose adapter, no gate valve. Ford must have one on their trucks somewhere.

I see now that I was about to do what you had maybe already done. I was planning on using the evap vent on top of the tank as the fill vent. I can see that won't work as hardly any air moves through the valve. There must be a 1/2" barbed fitting that has threads on one end to attach to the tank...without welding. Something like thisRaceFlux 1/2" Hose Barb to O-Ring Adapter Fitting I just finished hanging my tank so I will have to take it down and add the 1/2" line. I ditched the evap so maybe I'll run the vent on top into the fill vent through a t?

That's exactly my problem. The gas cap doesn't vent nicely like I thought it would either. Now I'm going to plumb it into the same vent as my front tank and hope it doesn't trip any CELs. If I wasn't worried about passing CA smog I might buy one of these
Amazon.com: Dorman 924-284 Front Axle Vent for Select Lexus / Toyota Models: Automotive
and plumb it somewhere high and dry similar to the rear diff breather extension.

No welding is definitely better... how would you secure that Hose Barb on the inside of the tank so that it seals though?

There would have to be a matching female threaded piece on the inside of the tank.
I found some 90 degree threaded fittings that may work better. That AN fitting I linked to had o-rings but may not be available to me locally. I'm headed to Lowes to see if there is a similar brass fitting that can be slathered in fuel tank repair sealant. As I write this I remembered Car-Quest makes hydraulic hoses, they may have the AN fittings...

Oddly enough Ford uses a small vent hose inside of the fill tube to vent their tanks, at least on the Bronco. I read some threads of people complaining about miserably slow fill times so apparently even they didn't get it right.

Spoke with Chris at Tanks, Inc. They have a rollover check valve that can be added to the end of the evap line. He suggested gutting the evap diaphragm for max flow and it should fill fine.
Roll over tank vent

I saw they also have this...
Bulkhead barb fitting

To solve the filler vent or vapor recovery problem I used this.

8AN Fuel Cell Bulkhead Fitting Adapter Aluminum AN8 Locking Nut 8 AN Male Flare Thread with Teflon Washer Amazon.com: 8AN Fuel Cell Bulkhead Fitting Adapter Aluminum AN8 Locking Nut 8 AN Male Flare Thread with Teflon Washer: Automotive

-8 an is 1/2 inch and I grabbed a 90° thread to barb to put on it. Simply drilled a hole in the tank on the highest point closest to the filler neck. Caught everything I could with a magnet and fished a strong one around in there after that. It’s higher than the top strap for the tank and significantly higher than the filler opening. Fed it back into the fillerneck up near the cap by teeing it into the factory vapor recovery line as high as possible. I also maintained and teed into the evap system because this is California.

My filler neck for both tanks is shown over in my build thread but if merging them isn’t an option a second factory one can be used in the fender well and the filler vent line thing still works. Did it on a friends.

If I suck the tank dry it fills right up to 20 gal and shuts off with the trigger just like it should.
Only tank over pressure issue I’ve had has been heat buildup related due to return line temperatures (I think) and the addition of a skid plate retaining heat under there. Happened once when I was forced to sit with the automatic in 2nd climbing the mountain by tourists not understanding the reason for turnouts.

Finally ordered this kit, now looking to match it with a tank and wonder if I should pick up one with a pump and a sending unit for $249 versus a bear tank for 120

I'm not 100% sure, but I think a few people who did the whole f150 tank (pump) found out it doesn't put out enough psi at higher rpm's for the 4runner. IIRC it's in this thread somewhere. Simple fix will be install an upgraded pump.

There is another member who males a gauge adapter to fit the oem toyota sending unit to the f150 pump housing if you go that route.

Just remember the stock f150 pump doesn't have a "sump" so you will have fuelling issues at steep angles.

I know it increases the difficulty quite a bit, but I highly suggest grafting the 4runners tank stuff into the f150 tank. That is what I did, and I have zero fill up issues or gauge issues. Heck I have had zero issues since I installed the f150 tank.

My pics of what I did are in this thread.