Hi all, and thanks in advance for any help.

I have a 99 $runner 4wd that has a death wobble.

I'm told by a mechanic "the rear track bar and both lateral bars/lower control arms have play requiring replacement" (that's exactly how it's written in the inspection notes).

I also have a 2" OME suspension lift.

So, my plan is to get an adjustable track bar due to the lift.

Questions

Is the track bar the one that attaches the axle to the frame, in the rear? Is that the only 'track bar' on the vehicle (it's the only one I can find)?

Is the track

The lateral bars - is that another name for the control arms in the back?

In the rear, the control arms are straight bars that run perpendicular to the rear axle, correct?

In the front, the control arms are C shaped, at the top and bottom, in side the wheel, correct?

I have more questions about the front, but I'll hold off until we are past these.

For starters, you have a mechanic who is probably a Jeep guy...

But to answer your questions-
Front end has two sets of control arms, upper and lower on each side. Yes they are "C" shaped, looking from top down (or underneath up). The lowers have the shocks mounted to them, if that helps. Uppers have replaceable bushings.

The rear control arms are in fact the straight bars you refer to.

The "track bar" your mechanic mentions I can only assume is usually called a panhard bar by toyota folk. It runs parallel to the axle from a frame mount on passenger side to an axle mount on drivers side. In a perfect world it would sit perfectly flat when at ride height, but usually ends up slanting down towards the axle mount.

I'd encourage you to look into lower ball joint failures in this forum, they can be catastrophic. Also, seriously consider taking it to someone who works on 'yota's enough to use terminology common to them-things like the LBJ deal may be a mystery to a jeep specialist.

Also, most "death wobble" type problems are front end issues.

You mentioned that uppers have replaceable bushings, which also means the lowers do not.

Energy suspension sells front control arm bushings for both the upper and lower -

http://imagesrv.catalograck.com/imgVD/ENE/17P17661.pdf


You also mentioned that death wobbles are caused by front end issues. It was also mentioned in the inspection that one of the outer tie rod ends needed to be replaced. However, that was the only thing they mentioned in the front. What else would I be looking at? I'm the type of person who, if I have to replace something on the front that then requires an alignment, why not do most if not all.

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As far as the panhard bar on the rear, now that I think about it I can understand needing an adjustable (or one for a specific lift size) after putting a lift on. I'm looking at a Sonoran Steel panhard bar.

However, what about the control arms themselves - I'm seeing places list control arms, front and rear, for specific lift amounts (2", 4", etc).

Are different control arms needed for lifts as well?

I would like to freshen up the suspension on my 1999 4runner. It is 2wd and was wondering if the OME96024R from ToyTech would be a good option. With front/ rear springs and shocks/ struts for $980. I was thinking of Bilstein 4600's, but this looks like a complete kit. I don't want to add much, if any lift. Just want it to be a bit more firm and sure footed.

1 - You can replace all but the rear UCA bushings (those are captured. You could technically try, I guess, but eh...)

2 - You can replace OTRE w/out getting an alignment if you mark and count the turns as you remove the old one. That being said, if you haven't had an alignment done after a lift, might as well knock it out. As for the shimmy shimmy, there's quite a few things it could be, from wheels and bushings to just 4Runners being 4Runners. Mine has a shake that I cannot... shake.

3 - I have the SS panhard, it's legit. Few people have adjustable/longer rear UCA because (I believe) tight spaces/flex/gas tank issues. Some folks run adjustable rear LCA, but not necessary.

Im also in the process of replacing tires or worn out suspension components. I don't want to take away from your thread but will add to also replace your sway bar bushings and im also considering on getting this panhard extender from a member that makes them on here, it has to be welded on though. not sure if youd want to go that route. SS are great either way.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-s...its-%2486.html

It's been a couple of years since I put on my OME 2" lift, so I don't recall the kit number. I thought mine came with shocks. Check out this page - the complete kit (unassembled) is $829.

The 4x4 shop I bought it from said it was considered an option to people who wanted more of a better ride, vs lift.

I measured before and after the lift, and I gained 2 3/8", so 3/8" from sagging original suspension.

If you do it, some pointers -
Go to your local Autozone or such place that rents out loan a tools, and get TWO sets of spring compressors (each set has 2 compressors). If one place doesn't have two, go to two places. That way you can compress the old ones to disassemble, and compress the new ones at the same time to assemble.

I don't recall whether my old shocks were stuck on or spinning when I tried to unbolt the top, but I think it was the latter, so I drove a screwdriver into one of them to be able to stop it from doing that while I got it off.

Whole process took 6 hours, and it had been 10 years since I did any suspension work last. The first one takes the longest, goes considerably faster after that.

However, unless you go with stock ride height, you will most likely have to invest in an adjustable rear panhard bar. In the above posts I have a link to one that I've only seen good reviews on. They are $200 at that place, but that seems to be a low price online. If you know and trust a local welding shop they might build you one that is slightly cheaper.

I'm told that once you get that panhard bar, you first measure (I assume with the old one on) the inside of the rear tire to the inside of the fender, on both sides. Whichever is off is the side you need to adjust it for. Once I get mine installed, I plan on measuring again and then adjusting accordingly with the adjustment nut.


Also, just wanted to point out, it wasn't my OME 2" lift that caused my death wobble, that was there before I installed the OME lift. I thought it was going to fix it, but I should have done more research.

I was also able to go up 1 tire size after the lift, but I rub just a bit on the upper control arm when doing a tight turn, so I will be looking to add a small spacer. I'm unsure how that's going to work since my studs are barely long enough now with my wheels. I know some rear drums can have the studs replaced, but don't recall if these rotors I have will allow for it.

Good catch Rediranch on the front lower control arm bushings. I was thinking if he rear uppers as NMFL mentioned aren't readily replaceable.
For front end stuff, have a buddy turn steering back and forth while you look for any slop/play in steering/suspension components. Then jack the front end up of the ground and have him try to wiggle the wheel, again while looking for any sloppy bushings, ball joints etc. a pry bar can help ya look for loose components as well, just be careful not to damage nearby stuff (wiring, brake lines etc)
As for the LBJ's, there's a million threads on here and YouTube videos on how take a look at them. They aren't all that expensive for some piece of mind.
As NWFL said, OTRE can be carefully replaced without an alignment. But any bushing/ball joint work really should be realigned after.

Panhard lengths are varied because of how the panhard functions. It laterally locates the rear end in relation to the vehicle. Because it moves in an arc, as the suspension cycles through travel it does move the axle side to side slightly. That effect is minimized if at ride height the panhard is parallel with flat ground. The "correct" way is the mount extended that nchacon posted the link to, as it moves the link into a more flat orientation on lifted T4r's. Many just get an extended or adjustable panhard or completely ignore that issue. I've had 3-4" or rear lift for 3-4 years with stock panhard and mount, no issues. But I do plan to sled on the mount extended over the winter, just for the sake of things being "right".

Try and find an alignment shop that has "lifetime alignments" or similar where you can bring it back. I've gotten quite a few alignment "tune ups" out of mine that way. Fewer shops willing to do that these days though.


Sent from my iPhone, so probably some stupid typos and autocorrects

Thank you for this information. I can't do the work myself, but I do want to make it easier for the installer by making sure it is literally a 'bolt in' operation with components that are well matched. I think I will go with a kit and have the LBJ's replaced at the same time.

Thanks, that's the 2nd thing I did, replacing the swar bar bushings and links (this was after redoing the suspension).