If you are still running the stock rims I highly suggest you get rid of them. It was a known issue back in the early 2000's that the stock Toyota rims were a pain in the arse to balance properly.

Is there someone you can swap front rims and tires with to check this out??

I went through this vibration/control issue with my 2002 Runner. I tried different tires which helped a bit but as soon as I replaced the stock rims
I had no more vibration..

hub centric or lug centric

Yeah it can if they are completely shot.
Jack up your front end and move your tire left to right by hand like your checking tie rods.
You should be able to see them move if the bushings are that bad.

Wouldn't that have shown up before the lift though? This vibration wasn't present at all before I lifted it.

First time I'm hearing of this. The only time I had problems with stock wheels was with the crappy Goodyear RTS's that came from the dealer. It's usually problems with balancing the tires. Toyota wheels are quality.

The wheel issue was just a simple fix for the 3rd Gens with the 5 star wheels.

Here's something else I copied for trouble shooting vibration -

This guide is created for diagnosing and solving front end vibration issues. A decision tree will be established to aid in a root cause analysis.

IDENTIFYING THE GENERAL SOURCE OF THE VIBRATION
Vibrations can be caused by suspension, steering components, drivetrain, or the wheels and tires amongst other things. This section will aide in determining individual components to investigate.

PROBLEM
Is the vibration dependent on vehicle speed?
PROBABLE CAUSE
Non-drivetrain components
TEST
When vibration starts, slow down or speed up and observe the results.

PROBLEM
Is the vibration dependent on engine speed?
PROBABLE CAUSE
Drivetrain component
TEST
When vibration starts while moving, put the vehicle in neutral and observe effects. Additionally, when vibration starts, place vehicle in neutral and then shut off the engine and observe effects.

PROBLEM
Does the vibration occur when turning as well as going straight?
PROBABLE CAUSE
Steering components
TEST
When vibration occurs, turn the wheels and observe effects.

PROBLEM
Does the vibration occur when braking?
PROBABLE CAUSE
Brakes
TEST
Let the vehicle roll at low speeds and feel and listen for any brake grab while the wheels turn. Also, at speed, brake hard and feel for any vibrations.

Once you have determined the probable cause, refer to the appropriate section for further diagnosis.

DRIVETRAIN COMPONENTS

I have little experience in this realm, so this is not as detailed as it should be.
Referring back to the results of the tests in the previous section,
Did the vibration stop when you put the vehicle in neutral while moving?
If so, the problem likely lies between the flywheel and the drive wheels. Drive shafts and axle shafts are the two rotating members in this region, and will be susceptible to oscillations more than anything else. Visually inspect the driveshaft and axles for physical damage. Then you may need to test their rotational balance.
Did the vibration stop not in neutral, but when you cut off the engine?
Something from the flywheel forward must be out of balance. There are lots of moving parts in an engine, but an extra vibration can be nothing but bad.
While the vibration is occurring, try putting the vehicle in four-wheel drive (if you have it). Does the nature of the vibration change?
If so, you may have a problem with your front CV joints or half shafts.


NON-DRIVETRAIN COMPONENTS (INCLUDING STEERING)

This type of issue can be the hardest to nail down, as there can be multiple sources of vibration.

INITIAL TEST
The first step should be a simple test to know whether you should pursue wheels and tires as your cause of issue, or suspension components:
1. Lift one side of the vehicle until the front wheel is no longer touching the ground.
2. Grab the tire on the horizontal axis (hands at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock) and try to apply torque to the wheel (pull from the left, push to the right, and vice versa). If there is significant play, you may have a steering issue. Please look down the page for another steering test.
3. Grab the tire on the vertical axis (hands at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock) and apply torque to the wheel (pull from the bottom, push the top, and vice versa). If there is significant play, you may have worn upper or lower ball joints. You may wish to have these inspected by a mechanic because worn ball joints can become a safety issue if allowed to fail.
4. If you fail to find any play for either Step 2 or 3, then you most likely have a problem with the wheels and tires.

WHEELS AND TIRES

Here are some easy things to try for starters:
-Adjust tire pressure: many truck tires are sensitive to excessive pressures than can cause them to bounce along the road
-Rotate the tires: sometimes the tread may wear in an uneven pattern, causing vibrations on the more sensitive front end. Simply moving the position of the tires may allow the fronts to wear in to a smoother pattern on the rear.
-Balance wheels: over time, the tread and structure wear of tires may change their rotational characteristics. Also, wheel weights may fall off or the wheels themselves may slightly deform. Getting a proper balance (on a Tacoma, this is a lug-centric road force balance) can smooth out any wheel rotational tendencies.
If any of those solved your problem, superb! Otherwise, you should look into suspension or the additional steering system test described below.

STEERING SYSTEM

SECONDARY TEST
If you suspect any play in the steering system, you should test for worn bushings. Typically, a rack gear will last over 150,000 miles, but the rubber bushings used to hold as well as isolate the rack/crossmember interface can wear out well before this milestone. For this test, you will need a partner.
Have your partner sit in the vehicle with the key in to keep the wheel unlocked, but with the engine off. Instruct your partner to rotate the steering wheel back and forth. Do you notice any of the rubber bushings deforming or moving in their mounts? Is the steering rack moving significantly in any direction? If so, the bushings may need replacing.
Note: this is also a good opportunity to inspect the state of the steering system. If the tie rods seem loose, they may need replacement. Also, check the steering rack outer seals by unclamping the outer clamp of the bellows covering the inner tie rods and check for fluid leakage. If there is leakage, the rack will be to be rebuilt (or replaced ).
SOLUTION
I recommend the Energy Suspension bushing kit because the bushings are made from high quality polyurethane and will not only last longer but yield a more firm performance from your steering system.
DiscountSteering.com is where I purchased my steering rack, their prices are competitive and they allow a return shipping label (for the core) to be added to your purchase for just $12. I have seen no issues with their quality.

SUSPENSION

Occasionally, a vibration may develop because a suspension strut is unable to dampen any oscillations the wheels may be undergoing. This will develop after years of use, and there are simple test you can perform if you suspect your struts may be worn. The following is taken from the ehow.com strut testing guide:
1. Perform a "bounce" test. Put your foot or knee on your front bumper and push down with all of your weight as low as you can push it toward the ground. Take your foot or knee off. A car with good struts should rebound quickly. Perform the same test on the back bumper. If your vehicle bounces up and down more than twice, your struts could be worn.
2. Perform a driving test. Drive through an intersection or dip in the road. If your car makes strange noises or thumps or bounces three or more times, your struts might be worn.
3. Visually inspect the struts. Touch the towers of the struts, and look for signs of damage including the presence of a leaking oily liquid and caked-on dirt from the road. If your struts are leaking, they are damaged. The only remedy is replacement.
4. Take your vehicle to a mechanic if you still have doubts. Ask the mechanic to perform a visual inspection and drop test. A drop tester drops the vehicle one axle at a time from about 10 inches up in the air. It then plots a graph of the vehicle's suspension reaction. This should determine whether your struts are worn.
If any of the test procedures yields a result that is suspicious, especially if you have not replaced your struts in a long time, then you should consider strut replacement.

BALL JOINTS

Ball joints attach the wheel assembly to the A-arms and upper suspension. They allow the wheel to move up and down while still remaining attached. Both lower and upper ball joints can wear out and fail. However, prior to failure, if they have worn and do not fit firmly then they can vibrate in their mountings. When inspecting the ball joints, on first generation Tacomas, also take the time to inspect the bolts attaching the ball joint to the A-arm. These have been known to fail, and losing a wheel while driving is a genuine safety concern.
Ball joint replacement is not a beginner level task, and a Haynes or Chilton’s guide would be a very helpful resource (as always).

BRAKES

Warped brake rotors can cause vibrations for two reasons:
1. A warped rotor presents an off-balance rotating mass
2. A warped rotor may contact the brake pad during rotation and momentarily slow the wheel down. This contact may cause a vibration at high speeds.

There are several quick ways to test if the rotors might be warped:
1. While rolling at slow speeds, listen and feel for any contact during each rotation. There may be a metal on metal sound or you may feel the vehicle pull slightly while rolling.
2. While at higher speeds, press the brakes hard and feel the pedal and steering for any vibrations. Uneven braking may indicate warped brakes.
3. Jack up the vehicle in your garage, and remove the wheel. Take a straightedge to the surface of the brake rotor and look for any gap underneath the straightedge. NOTE: Resurfacing brake rotors will not repair warping.

@MarkamisPrime
@ALBPM

I had my girlfriend turn the steering wheel while I watched the steering rack and I did see some movement at the passenger side bushing. It looked like maybe 3/16", both axially and radially. I think they certainly need to be replaced, but I'm not convinced this would cause it. We'll see though, I'll order new ones and replace them.

Driveshaft doesn't spin at all in 2WD as long as you haven't put a locker in it, something I struggled with is my diff being bent in the front... lifting it made it more apparent and I was going through CVs like mad. Hopefully this gives you something else to check out if you haven't fixed it yet.

It's the tires man.
Your just throwing parts at it
You gotta get them balanced the correct way.
Someone else just posted they had a vibration like yours for two years until they got new tires and balancing from discount tires.
He also said he had firestone lifetime alignments and balancing and he still somehow let them get away with leaving his steering wheel crooked and living with the vibrations. For two years.
Idk how or why but if it was me I literally wouldn't stop bugging these guys until my truck was perfect. No if's ands or buts
You have to make sure they are lug centric balancing your wheels not hub centric.
It's not the same at all or even close.

Since you've been grasping at straws I figure I will share a recent vibration related experience I had on my 3rd gen, stock with 2000 limited wheels.

I recently bought the vehicle which had a pretty strong steering wheel vibration right around 70mph. I assumed it was the tires and didn't care too much as I plan on replacing them when the snow falls.

Unrelated to the vibration I have done the following:
Tundra brake upgrade (old brakes looked good and provided pretty smooth stopping power)
New OEM lower ball joints (no noticeable play in old ones)
Added grease to outer tie rod ends

To my surprise the vibration was gone. Was the rotor out of round? Not seated properly on a clean surface? Were the grossly over torqued lug nuts the culprit, either directly or caused rotor issues? Did the grease in the OTRE provide some damping? Were the LBJs worse than I thought? I really don't know but I hope my experience helps you in some way. That diagnostic tree that ALBPM posted looks excellent btw. GL

Maybe, but I'm starting to suspect something in the front end. I dropped the rear driveshaft and drove around in front wheel drive to once and for all rule out any issues with the rear end. The vibrations were significantly worse and started at a lower speed. Toytec is telling me that I have too much lift in the front (~3.5" from the kit they assembled and sold me) so could it be a CV angle issue? Edited to add that in front wheel drive the vibrations will smooth out when I'm not on the gas - this makes me think it's driveline related.

I'm not going to entirely rule out balance issues but I don't know what else to do on that front. I've been to three different shops and specifically asked for all of that and even had the tires replaced. Can I trust a Toyota dealership to do it right?

Have you checked the LCA and UCA bushings for play? Pry test on LBJ's? I would think loading on those joints would be different accelerating in front wheel drive vs. coasting.

No, but all of the above save the LCA bushings were replaced within the last 6 months.

Sorry I missed the new LBJs. I would definitely check the LCA bushings next. Then on to swapping the worn rack bushings (or the whole rack since it's leaking anyways) I guess? Best of luck.

No worries, I replaced the LBJs a couple of months before I lifted it so I've not said much about it in this thread. That and the timing belt were the first things I did when I got it.

I wouldn’t trust the dealer honestly
It’s just a overpriced shop.
If it stopped after you let off the gas in fwd then I’m inclined to say it’s driveline related. But you said you took the front driveline off and nothing changed. ?
Maybe you do have too much lift up front but that’s what I got out of the lift that I got from them too so idk.
It’s hard to say without being there man but I just know that people suck at balancing Toyota wheels and it’s a very common issue around these parts