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Old 09-13-2017, 04:24 PM #1
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Drum Brake Shoe Replacement

Hey Dudes,

@infamousRNR and I have another video for you. If you were looking for a comprehensive tutorial on how to do a rear brake job on your 3rd Gen, we've got it right here.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

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Old 09-13-2017, 05:01 PM #2
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Great, thanks!
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Old 09-13-2017, 05:22 PM #3
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Thumbs up

Awesome, hopefully I'll have time this weekend. I have all parts & tools purchased.
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:02 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
Hey Dudes,
@infamousRNR and I have another video for you. ...
Awesome, detailed video. Thanks, guys!

I would like to add a lesson I learned as a heads-up...
This could happen to rear brake cylinders when brake shoes and/or brake fluid have/has not been replaced for a long time... Rusting of wall of brake cylinder where the rubber cups do not scrape anymore as shoe gets thinner...

Rear Brake System
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:43 PM #5
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I applaud you for your hard work on this video. If you do it "by the book" it's a great step-by-step instructional video.

However, it only takes two hours max to do your rear brakes without any special tools, clamps etc.

The easiest way to install the rear brakes is to pre-assemble them and slide them over the axle. If you have a washer compressor tool, cool, use it, if not you can still get them installed with pliers or even a socket. Add the anchor spring and the short cable and use a screw driver if needed for your adjuster.

Here's a link to my rear brake installation from quite a while back. Rock Rats Rear Brake Installation


Here's a pic of the pre-assembled brakes ready to go. Trust me, this is the best way to do rear brakes. I've done more than one set in my lifetime.

Good video though, just years of experience talking to you.
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Last edited by Rock_Rat; 09-13-2017 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:33 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock_Rat View Post
I applaud you for your hard work on this video. If you do it "by the book" it's a great step-by-step instructional video.

However, it only takes two hours max to do your rear brakes without any special tools, clamps etc.

The easiest way to install the rear brakes is to pre-assemble them and slide them over the axle. If you have a washer compressor tool, cool, use it, if not you can still get them installed with pliers or even a socket. Add the anchor spring and the short cable and use a screw driver if needed for your adjuster.

Here's a link to my rear brake installation from quite a while back. Rock Rats Rear Brake Installation


Here's a pic of the pre-assembled brakes ready to go. Trust me, this is the best way to do rear brakes. I've done more than one set in my lifetime.

Good video though, just years of experience talking to you.
Rock Rat hit the nail on the head with this. I actually accidentally discovered this when I was re installing the shoes and didn't have the bottom spring on and pushed up on the assembly to reseat the shoes in the wheel cylinder and the whole assembly just about came out. Also, makes putting that freaking spring on easier as you put it in place and completely turn in the adjuster and sneak it in place. Furthermore, that tool for the springs is easier but if you don't have it, with a pair of pliers you can put it all in place and reach behind the backing plate and hold the pin in place and push and turn the whole thing on with the pliers.
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:06 PM #7
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Thanks for the in depth walkthrough of adjusting the rears with the parking brake.

After doing the TBU, my brake pedal was squishier than I wanted, and this was the key final piece I missed.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:21 PM #8
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Nice job as always Tim. Those have to be the cleanest set of used drums and shoes I have ever seen.....
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:40 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock_Rat View Post
I applaud you for your hard work on this video. If you do it "by the book" it's a great step-by-step instructional video.

However, it only takes two hours max to do your rear brakes without any special tools, clamps etc.

The easiest way to install the rear brakes is to pre-assemble them and slide them over the axle. If you have a washer compressor tool, cool, use it, if not you can still get them installed with pliers or even a socket. Add the anchor spring and the short cable and use a screw driver if needed for your adjuster.

Here's a link to my rear brake installation from quite a while back. Rock Rats Rear Brake Installation


Here's a pic of the pre-assembled brakes ready to go. Trust me, this is the best way to do rear brakes. I've done more than one set in my lifetime.

Good video though, just years of experience talking to you.
Thanks for the tips Mike. I appreciate it!
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:50 PM #10
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I've actually watched a few of the 'Tim the toolman' vids right after I got my 2001 4runner. One of the runners that I was considering buying had a leaky steering rack. Your vid of R&Ring a rack reassured my guess as to what was involved in replacing one. The owner wouldn't budge on the price even though it needed an expensive part replaced so I kept looking and eventually found the one that I purchased.

If I could make a request for a vid- could you show how to identify which one of the stock front brake pads is the outboard pad? I literally spent hours trying to find out that one bit of important information, never found it. I used the process of elimination to get them orientated correctly. The last person that touched them didn't put too much effort into doing anything correctly. Each side had the pads in a different order...
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:21 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock_Rat View Post
I applaud you for your hard work on this video. If you do it "by the book" it's a great step-by-step instructional video.

However, it only takes two hours max to do your rear brakes without any special tools, clamps etc.

The easiest way to install the rear brakes is to pre-assemble them and slide them over the axle. If you have a washer compressor tool, cool, use it, if not you can still get them installed with pliers or even a socket. Add the anchor spring and the short cable and use a screw driver if needed for your adjuster.

Here's a link to my rear brake installation from quite a while back. Rock Rats Rear Brake Installation


Here's a pic of the pre-assembled brakes ready to go. Trust me, this is the best way to do rear brakes. I've done more than one set in my lifetime.

Good video though, just years of experience talking to you.
Cool idea!! Never thought of that before.
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Old 09-21-2017, 12:50 PM #12
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One of the questions that arose during our brake job was, "why is all the wear on the bottom of the leading shoe?" Some folks have responded to the video stating that they see the same wear patterns.

One of my textbooks has a treatment on drum brakes and it turned out to be a helpful resource. It models the drum brake system as shown below assuming that the bottom of the shoes is a pinned hinged.



There are two important things we can learn from the model:
1) There is an ideal pressure distribution along the length of the shoe. It is zero at the ends and highest in the center.
2) The leading shoe does more than 2x the braking work as the trailing shoe (the leading shoe is the front one)



This tells us why the front shoe gets the brunt of the wear, but why the *bottom* of the front shoe? My suggestion is that this is because the brake shows are actually not pinned but instead just have a sliding surface. Because the bottom support can't provide any upward resisting force (Rx) the downward motion of the drum on the shoe drags it downward and shifts the pressure distribution downward as well. Here's my sketch of the situation:





Enjoy
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Old 09-21-2017, 01:04 PM #13
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And people ask why we need math. Some people.

That is why it is imperative to make sure when doing a brake job, whether using pads or shoes, always moves freely and is clean ( a la no diff fluid on shoes here). Don't forget the lube too.
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Old 09-21-2017, 02:23 PM #14
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Wow, cool jazz intro, guest appearances and slick editing .
Your how too vids are really well thought out, produced and
informative .
Thanks for all the effort .

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Old 09-21-2017, 08:09 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZiggy View Post
One of the questions that arose during our brake job was, "why is all the wear on the bottom of the leading shoe?" Some folks have responded to the video stating that they see the same wear patterns.

One of my textbooks has a treatment on drum brakes and it turned out to be a helpful resource. It models the drum brake system as shown below assuming that the bottom of the shoes is a pinned hinged.

There are two important things we can learn from the model:
1) There is an ideal pressure distribution along the length of the shoe. It is zero at the ends and highest in the center.
2) The leading shoe does more than 2x the braking work as the trailing shoe (the leading shoe is the front one)

This tells us why the front shoe gets the brunt of the wear, but why the *bottom* of the front shoe? My suggestion is that this is because the brake shows are actually not pinned but instead just have a sliding surface. Because the bottom support can't provide any upward resisting force (Rx) the downward motion of the drum on the shoe drags it downward and shifts the pressure distribution downward as well. Here's my sketch of the situation:

Enjoy
Jordan, Thank you for taking the time to reference your textbooks and draw up diagrams to explain what is happening with our rear brake system. I'm not in the least bit an engineering genius but it does make sense to me. Awesome Tech Brother Jordan!
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