[TonyB66]

Just remembered that I need to remove the seat belt receptacles...

They are of course wired. Anyone know exactly what I need to remove with respect to the wiring? I want to avoid any related lights, like one reflecting that the belt is not buckled, when it is...

[theesotericone]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Just remembered that I need to remove the seat belt receptacles...

They are of course wired. Anyone know exactly what I need to remove with respect to the wiring? I want to avoid any related lights, like one reflecting that the belt is not buckled, when it is...]

Just follow the wiring back. There should be a pressure sensor attached to it somewhere. You'll need both the pressure sensor and seat belt wires re-installed to keep the light off. I'm sure there's a way to remove the pressure sensor but you'd have to test it's resistance then get the correct resistor wired into it. I've never looked at the 3rd gen system so I'm curious what you find. Post some pics later.

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by theesotericone

Just follow the wiring back. There should be a pressure sensor attached to it somewhere. You'll need both the pressure sensor and seat belt wires re-installed to keep the light off. I'm sure there's a way to remove the pressure sensor but you'd have to test it's resistance then get the correct resistor wired into it. I've never looked at the 3rd gen system so I'm curious what you find. Post some pics later.

Will get one of the seats out of the garage into the sunlight tomorrow for a good inspection. I'll snap some photos too.

I'll search here for what others have done with aftermkt seats as that I had not done yet...

[octanejunkie]

On my 99 the driver buckle is standalone, just a single wire connection to wire under the seat. The passenger buckle integrates with the in-seat (occupancy) passenger sensor. My driver seat has no occ sensor.

You can migrate the sensor from the/a stock passenger seat to your new seat if you want to, otherwise you need to do something regarding the passenger seat/buckle wiring as it might be tied into the passenger side air bag - I'm not 100% sure but I read there might be a tie-in there.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

After some discussion in this thread (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2867096-post29.html), I decided to go this route and get the Borla ProXS Mufflers 40665 muffler:

https://www.borla.com/products/proxs...rt__40665.html



Summit matched the best price I could find ($102.99 delivered, on Amazon) and I should have it here as soon as tomorrow or Wed.

<<< SNIP >>>

I was going to cut this myself, but given the close cut needed at the rear of the stock muffler I'll get it done at a local shop...

Is there a sound byte of that exact muffler on a 3rd gen 4runner floating around out there?

EDIT: found a few revving but they are Borla 40664 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmf0heg4-cU and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI39tF-0bvU

Regarding install, my local muffler guy will weld a new one in for $75 in about 20 mins. That's almost worth it to me not trying to weld it in lying under the car

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

On my 99 the driver buckle is standalone, just a single wire connection to wire under the seat. The passenger buckle integrates with the in-seat (occupancy) passenger sensor. My driver seat has no occ sensor.

You can migrate the sensor from the/a stock passenger seat to your new seat if you want to, otherwise you need to do something regarding the passenger seat/buckle wiring as it might be tied into the passenger side air bag - I'm not 100% sure but I read there might be a tie-in there.

Thanks Mike.

Bringing back some memories of other rides and various related issues with aftermarket seats.... Those involved airbag, pretensioners, etc. I still have a large bag of resistors and I actually just stumbled across that last week...

Not finding a whole lot here:

Recaro Seat Install

Damn Flashing Seatbelt Light

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Is there a sound byte of that exact muffler on a 3rd gen 4runner floating around out there?

EDIT: found a few revving but they are Borla 40664 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmf0heg4-cU and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI39tF-0bvU

Regarding install, my local muffler guy will weld a new one in for $75 in about 20 mins. That's almost worth it to me not trying to weld it in lying under the car

I seem to recall a one or two more clips. If I find them, I'll share...

I've had a couple Borlas before, including the current one in my SCd MINI. I'm reasonably confident I'll be fine with the loudness. The deeper sound I will like...

Mike, I was going to cut mine out in the driveway, but decided against that too. I have one of those pipe cutter tools that has always worked well for me, almost exactly like this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...A2W86Q8280F2Q3

Much easier on an old system than a jarring reciprocating saw. A very nice cut too...

But, with that rear cut needing to be so close to the backside of the factory muffler, that is not a good tool for such...

Checking to see if a local shop will be open this Friday. If so, I'll likely re-install the factory driver's seat to get down there, unless I got the seat belt wiring figured-out for the Corbeau...

A rep at Borla I spoke with knows the 3rd gens pretty well. He said our factory muffler is a tank, likely well-over 20 pounds. This Borla shipped is 13, and actually a little less than 10 pounds.

And, as I type, an email from Summit Racing... The Borla will be here tomorrow. They ship out of Vegas, and almost always one day to CA. Nice.

Quite a few people believe that the 1st gen Tacomas produced more power off the lot compared to our Runners because of the quieter ride SUV buyers would expect. Apparently Tacomas were freer-flowing, on both the intake and exhaust sides. If so, there might be some marginal upside...

[octanejunkie]

The thing I worry about with an aftermarket muffler is droning at certain RPM on the freeway - I drive loooong stretches at the same RPM and wouldn't want to end up finding out I hate my new muffler in the middle of an 8-hour trip. I really need more than a parking lot rev-video to make an informed decision, but that's rare with $100 mufflers

Self install? With the amount of crud that will fall when cutting that exhaust, not to mention a 20+ pound rusty muffler, I'll let Scotty at Magic Muffler do mine Lol

Also, Summit ships out of Sparks/Reno - I pass by it sometimes when I'm out there one day to us is sweet tho

[TonyB66]

Droning? Enter the new sound system

Seriously, I understand, and I'm prepared for it. I've been lucky the past couple times that the drone was not in a cruise sweet spot.

Hold-off a week or two and I'll report my findings.

A new muffler, and rubber hanger insulators for 125 bucks, total with install, probably close to $200.

Speaking of which, those insulators are set to arrive on Thursday. I'll swap those in Thu or Fri morning, hopefully in time for an install appt on Fri. I think that shop might be closed for the holidays already though...

I stand corrected - Sparks, NV. Not sure why I thought Vegas...

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Droning? Enter the new sound system

Seriously, I understand, and I'm prepared for it. I've been lucky the past couple times that the drone was not in a cruise sweet spot.

Hold-off a week or two and I'll report my findings.

A new muffler, and rubber hanger insulators for 125 bucks, total with install, probably close to $200.

Cool, thanks

I saw a mention of a "walker bolt-on" muffler here

Originally Posted by IsaiahC

I replaced my flowmaster muffler with a walker bolt-on. What a night and day difference! It feels like I'm driving a luxury suv again

So I searched the forum and found this

Originally Posted by BrianK14

Walker Quiet flow is $125 shipped on Amazon. Order the gasket and bolts along with it. You will likely have to cut off the old bolts. You may* also need the tail piece. If so, that's another $75 or so. Should take an hour or two to install, not difficult. No welding is necessary with the correct parts.

So I searched amazon for "Walker Quiet flow" and found this Walker 54681 Quiet-Flow Stainless Steel Muffler Assembly and gasket. Some reviews mentioned using two different gaskets, the first one and this one. One guy said to use the Toyota gaskets, but I'll have to search those out.



It was also suggested in several threads and reviews I read the that fastening hardware (bolts, nuts, etc) will most likely need to be replaced, if they come off at all - otherwise they'll need to be cut off. Start soaking them now, I guess. Lol

Also found CARB compliant Cats on Amazon, the front is a bolt on for $320 and the rear a weld in for $100

I'll wait to see what yours comes out looking like and sounding like. Lol

[TonyB66]

Looks promising Mike.

Nice that there is no cutting involved or shop time and money.

Exhaust bolts can be the most wicked for sure. Penetrating oil galore, and start early. I'd have cardboard or something underneath to protect the driveway or garage floor from what would be permanent staining...

I want that Borla sound. The SCd MINI sounds really good. If the Borla cat-back for the 3rd gen would have maintained the factory side exit, I might have gone that route.

Also, with a cat-back in CA or with a dual cat Runner, there looks to be about 2 1/2 feet of the system that would be discarded (flange behind first cat to a point after 2nd cat's O2 sensor). That's about 1/2 the piping in the cat-back system... Just started to make more sense, to me at least, to address the muffler.

At some point later if / when there are cat issues, I'll get replacements, and the plumbing also. Even a header at that time, and just do whole dang thing...

Just got a call from FedEx making sure I'll be home tomorrow for a delivery for which I need to sign. Must be the seats.

[octanejunkie]

Found this Walker bolt on tail pipe:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C93E7K..._2VuoAbD9KVQC5

It says it's 3rd gen 4runner CA compatible, but is it rear exit?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Found this Walker bolt on tail pipe:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C93E7K..._2VuoAbD9KVQC5


It says it's 3rd gen 4runner CA compatible, but is it rear exit?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Nice find.

From the reviews, side exit alright.

EDIT/ADD: Other reviews, like the picture, rear exit....

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Nice find.

From the reviews, side exit alright.

Buy the Borla cat back system, chuck the rear-exit tailpipe that comes with it or sell it, install the walker tail pipe

However that still may not solve the front cat issue... Fed Emissions only require the rear cat, IIRC

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Buy the Borla cat back system, chuck the rear-exit tailpipe that comes with it or sell it, install the walker tail pipe

However that still may not solve the front cat issue... Fed Emissions only require the rear cat, IIRC

Or, for those similarly inclined... The Gibson cat-back. That's SS all the way, with the appropriate side exit, and less expensive. For those who already have the muffler they want, then sub that in place of the Gibson. Nothing wrong with the Gibson muffler though...

Note - on the Borla cat-back system, it's 2.5" pre muffler, and 2.25" post. In case that matters to some. The Gibson is 2.5 pre and post. The Borla is 304, in entirety. The plumbing on the Gibson if 409L. In CA, I'd be plenty content with 409L SS.

That all said, the factory tubing on mine is solid, and mandrel bent. Not seeing the appeal of the Walker tailpipe, unless in a pinch for replacement. Heck some have the exhaust expel under the Runner, I imagine cutting the pipe where it bends downward, so having no visible exit or tip. Not sure if fumes enter the inside, like when not moving, stuck in traffic...