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Old 11-04-2017, 01:22 PM #46
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A follow-up from a few posts earlier... The map lights in my 2000, and the bulb within, not the festoon type, as a popular bulb website indicated:





Seems that it might be a 1142 bulb. I'll need a magnifying glass to read it...
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Old 11-04-2017, 11:26 PM #47
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Are you doing the LED interior conversion?
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Old 11-04-2017, 11:48 PM #48
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Originally Posted by Overlanding99 View Post
Are you doing the LED interior conversion?
I am doing LEDs, both interior and exterior, but not sure what you mean by "the" LED conversion. Seems like something I might not be aware of, which wouldn't surprise me one bit...
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Old 11-05-2017, 07:18 AM #49
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Quote:
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Are you doing the LED interior conversion?
Quote:
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I am doing LEDs, both interior and exterior, but not sure what you mean by "the" LED conversion. Seems like something I might not be aware of, which wouldn't surprise me one bit...
Yes you are, Lol, but there are a few instances where swapping to LEDs alone causes issues due to improper (lower) voltage draws - additional load resistors need to be used to compensate for the lower draw of LEDs

Turns out my map light bulb was the same as yours, BA9/BA9S, but I also ordered Festoon bulbs as per the myriad of sites out there saying that's what we needed. I bought something like this off ebay for the map lights and they are way too bright for my liking. I'll wait to see what you do
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Old 11-05-2017, 12:17 PM #50
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Quote:
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Yes you are, Lol, but there are a few instances where swapping to LEDs alone causes issues due to improper (lower) voltage draws - additional load resistors need to be used to compensate for the lower draw of LEDs

Turns out my map light bulb was the same as yours, BA9/BA9S, but I also ordered Festoon bulbs as per the myriad of sites out there saying that's what we needed. I bought something like this off ebay for the map lights and they are way too bright for my liking. I'll wait to see what you do
Mike, thanks. The way that poster expressed himself, it almost sounded like there was a particular LED How-To here that I missed.

I saw in a couple threads about the possible need for resistors, but only on the turn signals?

Hey, along those lines, I want to upgrade the electrical system, including the alternator and cabling. I will want to run my ham radio direct to the battery. Not sure I'll run a stereo amp or not yet. I will want to run addtional lighting, like front and rear, rack-mounted and a winch. Might there be a good DIY on upgrading the cables?

On those map lights, the output with the current bulbs is not all that bad actually. I like the longevity of LEDs though, once and done. I've had too bright before also, so I understand.

Will install these later today:

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Old 11-05-2017, 01:20 PM #51
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What kind of lift did you get for the rear hatch? Can't really tell from the pic.

I got the StrongArm off amazon. Great reviews and made in the USA (I think they're based in So. Cal). Also comes with a warranty but don't remember what kind.

Don't know if they'll last as long as the OEM ones but I'm hoping at least 100K.
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Old 11-05-2017, 01:55 PM #52
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What kind of lift did you get for the rear hatch? Can't really tell from the pic.

I got the StrongArm off amazon. Great reviews and made in the USA (I think they're based in So. Cal). Also comes with a warranty but don't remember what kind.

Don't know if they'll last as long as the OEM ones but I'm hoping at least 100K.
These are StrongArm alright. I think it was Mike who recommended them earlier in this thread. The kind of "mod" that I can do at this time too, and the price is right also...

How many miles do you have on them now?
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Old 11-05-2017, 03:23 PM #53
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Hmm, looks like a mousetrap...



The 5-gallon bucket was pretty full of rain water, so fairly heavy.

Straight-forward install. Should have had new retaining clips ready though, and whatever hardware is recommended too. Both of the tops had some type of broken sleeve inserts and one of the bottom one had some type of washer (the other bottom did not). I'll figure-out what should be there, and add those later, along with new retaining clips.

Each of the struts I removed was different:



That all said, these open the rear hatch all the way. Takes more force to get it down, but a worthwhile trade-off, IMO.

Before I get busy on the house, I'll play a bit more with the ScanGauge 2. Have the tranny temp working. Will try other things, and also look at mounting...

Have some electric horns arriving today. Won't install those until later, likely when I do the radiator and t-stat, or after....
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Old 11-05-2017, 04:53 PM #54
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How many miles do you have on them now?
I have maybe 250 miles on them. Only installed it a few weeks ago similar to you with the board supporting the hatch.

My plastic sleeves were damaged too so didn't bother using them but both bottom ones had metal washers. I also reused the retaining rings.
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Old 11-06-2017, 05:56 AM #55
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Lol
I made a stand for the lift gate out of a scrap board that I propped the lift gate up against the rear bumper - safer than something on the ground that could slip.

The upper factory mounts use a delrin bushing that cracks and crumbles over time. This bushing is not sold by itself, it only comes on the shock assembly from Toyota for $285 per side. I harvest them from the junkyard, but most are just as bad - I'm looking for an alternative source for replacement bushings.

The lower mount has no bushing, just spring washers to quiet the pin from rattling.

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Old 11-06-2017, 10:52 AM #56
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Yes, would be nice to find some bushing-like sleeve for the tops. If I had an extra top pin, I'd carry it with me and check at various places for options. If you do find something Mike, please do share...

Yes, I could have supported it better, but my 2x4's are needed for part of a house project (constructing walls). Didn't have anything else that was scrap, so there you go. I was going to back the Runner near some dirt and simply dig a little ditch for the wood, but this did the trick. Actually, even without but bucket, it was wedged pretty damn tight.

At some point soon I'll be cleaning the: MAF, TB and IAC. I found the IAC gasket for like 4 bucks. The TB, if I want to go round (O), not the limiting factory D-shape, $35? Damn. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places, but that's even the Camelback price. Not adverse to spending money, but that's pretty dang expensive...

Maybe just get a new D-shape TB gasket, which is metal I believe, and Dremel it?
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:25 AM #57
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At some point soon I'll be cleaning the: MAF, TB and IAC. I found the IAC gasket for like 4 bucks. The TB, if I want to go round (O), not the limiting factory D-shape, $35? Damn. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places, but that's even the Camelback price. Not adverse to spending money, but that's pretty dang expensive...

Maybe just get a new D-shape TB gasket, which is metal I believe, and Dremel it?
I got an aftermarket Throttle Body gasket that was more like traditional cardboard gasket material without the D shape. Mine was from some Toyota parts house/performance site, I forget the name, I think it was $20 shipped.

You'll need an IAC housing gasket too, Federal Mogul PN 61087, those deform after so many years and won't fit back into the channel once exhumed. I replaced my IAC with an eBay special, and it came with a new gasket, that was like $35 shipped and was well worth it. It's been over 14 months since I installed it and so far so good.
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:51 AM #58
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I got an aftermarket Throttle Body gasket that was more like traditional cardboard gasket material without the D shape. Mine was from some Toyota parts house/performance site, I forget the name, I think it was $20 shipped.

You'll need an IAC housing gasket too, Federal Mogul PN 61087, those deform after so many years and won't fit back into the channel once exhumed. I replaced my IAC with an eBay special, and it came with a new gasket, that was like $35 shipped and was well worth it. It's been over 14 months since I installed it and so far so good.
That IAC housing gasket seems to be the one I referenced for about 4 bucks, at least from Cambelback, part number 22215-62180:

https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota...ket-2221562180

A new IAC is a thought, considering the price, but $4 for the gasket is likely what I'll do. Calling Camelback in a bit to see if they can add it to my order (radiator, cap, hoses, t-stat...).

On the TB gasket, I'll try to find a paper one like you referenced...

Thanks much and I hope the thrust washer gets the clearance you need for your Aussie Locker install.
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Old 11-06-2017, 01:50 PM #59
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After some reading, ordered these two gaskets. Decided to get the stock TB gasket, in metal. I'll Dremel it, and also the old one too...

I was not able to piggyback these onto my larger Camelback order (free shipping) as it's enroute already, and will be here tomorrow...
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Old 11-06-2017, 03:33 PM #60
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Congrats on the new 4Runner! I'm on the hunt for a DD replacement, but I'm hoping it doesn't take quite as long as your search did. But it looks like it was worth the wait.
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