Tony, looks like UG has a mount that's directly compatible with our M6 handle screws, so it seems like it'd be easier to implement than adapting an M8 mount:
Damn. Nice find Leon. The threads look sufficiently long, but not too long, which would be bad.
The only possible negative... would be tightening it. The nut portion on it would be recessed, but maybe only partially into the grab handle. I likely would have gone that route if i would have known of it.
The M6 Allen head bolt with washers within the one that had an M8 is super solid, and I don't imagine will loosen-up.
Thanks for sharing Leon.
With the thread kicked-up, I'll simply report that I got the brackets done for the Baja Designs wide cornering lights that will reside within the bumper.
Had these braces that were caked with paint which were used on some small shelf in the garage that I had demo'd. Perfect size for this application. Enlarged and added holes, cleaned them up and painted. Used that same scrap steel cut to length as meaty "washers"....
The passenger side is the tighter fit due to the winch control box. That bracket temporarily situated.
With the light in place, I can still easily access the control box switch and port for the remote. Should come-out pretty well. I'll report back later...
4Runner-related, I've been wanting to have documentation on all of my devices, as opposed to needing the web to access such. Finally made the time. Thus far I have the owner's manual for:
2000 Toyota 4Runner
Pioneer AVH-4100NEX (head unit)
UltraGauge Blue (OBD2 scanner, code reader & aux gauges)
Smittybilt X20 (winch)
Kenwood TM-V71A (mobile Ham radio)
Kenwood TH-F6A (handheld Ham radio)
I next want to get the 2000 FSM on there, but the only version I found (and have already) is with it broken into folders and sub-folders (many separate docs) - not one searchable document/file. If anyone is aware of it in one file, please do share...
Otherwise.... on the 4Runner itself, I got all forward-facing off road lights physically mounted now.
Used a square to get them consistently set in the brackets, here the wide cornering ambers, slightly upward (coupled with rake, hoping that will be fine).
The install was easy of those brackets. With two bolts securing the brackets, there is adjustability there too, should that be desired.
With that, lighting on the bumper is done, minus the electrical connections, hopefully coming next week...
For higher up, I decided upon those CBI ditch light brackets shown earlier. There I installed the Baja Designs spot lights. I needed to trim the cowl a bit on the passenger side only to feed the wires through. The closing of the hood is a bit of a concern though, at least for the driver's side. I temporarily secured that connector with some tape so it won't be impacted by the hood's hinge system.
I have these level, pointing slightly outward.
Next up, getting these all wired-up, finishing the winch electrical too, logical routing, protecting those wires, etc. Driver seat will come-out for that switch box to operate those...
I got the 4Runner for them, so they better help! Seriously though, I make almost everything for them hands-on learning moments, and this was just that...
A couple winch-related items arrived earlier in the week.
The Smittybilt hook doesn't want to lie up and flat or flush to the fairlead.
I imagine there's a way to secure it, but for now...
It would otherwise be flopping around, likely damaging the license plate in front of it. I realize I can spool-out a couple feet and secure the hook to the bumper, but I prefer not to expose the rope to the elements in that fashion. Obviously one the reasons for the cover...
I chose this winch license plate holder as it seems to have the most space behind the plate, possibly allowing for more hook or shackle options. It was in another thread where I learned of these flip license plate holders. Thanks Matt.
As for the cover, I ran-out of time. What should be an easy "install" is not exactly. When remote mounting the winch control box, the cabling is no longer self-contained as when the control box is secured on the winch itself. So... I'll need to slit the cover in the right place for some cabling to pass through. I knew I needed to do so when I ordered it, no big deal.
Our oldest turned 10 on Thursday, also the first day of the school year, and we have her party on Sunday, in the yard as usual. Got the yard about 90% ready. Put these out for pick-up yesterday.
Will do a bit more today...
Between biz travel in Sep and the aforementioned family health stuff, this should be my last post for about six weeks. See you in the fall.
Tony, great progress, your truck is looking awesome! I don't know where you find the time for the truck, the family, and the yardwork . Please keep in touch during your "off-forum" time!
__________________
1997 4Runner Limited 4WD E-Locker ~200k | Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/75/16 | Pro Comp 69 16x8 | OME 2906 | B&M 70264
Addicted Offroad Front Bumper | Spiker Engineering High-Lift Hood Struts and Ultragauge Mount
The Smittybilt hook doesn't want to lie up and flat or flush to the fairlead.
I installed that same winch a while back. The smittybilt hook is indeed terrible. I immediately took it off and installed one of these: Factor 55 Flat Splicer
The factory splice for the smittybilt hook was also terribly unsafe. A good long bury splice length should be at least 72 rope diameters. For 3/8” rope that’s a 27” tail.
When I took mine apart, the factory splice was less than 10” in length. It very well might have failed during the first use.
The Factor 55 splicer solves all those issues. Fits snug and secure on the fairlead, protects the end of the rope, and is easier to use.
A proper splice length and a better taper also vastly increase strength and safety compared to the smittybilt hook.
I installed that same winch a while back. The smittybilt hook is indeed terrible. I immediately took it off and installed one of these: Factor 55 Flat Splicer
The factory splice for the smittybilt hook was also terribly unsafe. A good long bury splice length should be at least 72 rope diameters. For 3/8” rope that’s a 27” tail.
When I took mine apart, the factory splice was less than 10” in length. It very well might have failed during the first use.
The Factor 55 splicer solves all those issues. Fits snug and secure on the fairlead, protects the end of the rope, and is easier to use.
A proper splice length and a better taper also vastly increase strength and safety compared to the smittybilt hook.
Thanks for making the time to share. Sorry for the delayed response...
I feel very ignorant regarding much of what you provided, namely the "splice". Makes sense, but I clearly need to read-up on these ropes.
So, did you buy a new synthetic rope? As I recall, to remove the Smittybilt hook, it has to be cut-off? Nevermind... Spent some time watching YouTube videos. Learned a fair amount in about 15 minutes. Started with this one, then watched another...
A good skillset to have. I'll likely seek some local help to learn in-person. Thanks again.
Sure thing. The youtube videos are quite helpful for learning about rope splicing.
Factor 55 has some videos on their website too, which are helpful.
As you may have already guessed, instead of cutting off the smittybilt hook I just took apart the original eye splice at the end of the rope. That's when I discovered the insufficient length of tail buried.
I used a locked brummel eye splice to install the new Factor 55 link. This type of splice does required access to both ends of the winch rope, because you have to feed the entire length of rope back through to complete the locking part of the splice. Luckily it is fairly easy to remove and install the rope from the winch drum.
There are other types of eye splices that don't require completely removing the rope from the winch, but I've been happy with the locked brummel. And I know for certain it will never work itself loose.
Sure thing. The youtube videos are quite helpful for learning about rope splicing.
Factor 55 has some videos on their website too, which are helpful.
As you may have already guessed, instead of cutting off the smittybilt hook I just took apart the original eye splice at the end of the rope. That's when I discovered the insufficient length of tail buried.
I used a locked brummel eye splice to install the new Factor 55 link. This type of splice does required access to both ends of the winch rope, because you have to feed the entire length of rope back through to complete the locking part of the splice. Luckily it is fairly easy to remove and install the rope from the winch drum.
There are other types of eye splices that don't require completely removing the rope from the winch, but I've been happy with the locked brummel. And I know for certain it will never work itself loose.
Very helpful. I'll make it point to watch those videos you referenced, plus others and tackle this later, likely this winter. I can already see myself sitting in front of the fireplace for this project ... Thanks again.
For reasons stated earlier, not much work being done these days. I'm gradually working on a more affordable and ideally better door check solution for us. For those interested, that adventure can be found here:
Hey Tony, looks great! You do good work.
I've not been following much, but whose tire rear carrier is that?
I might make a hitch mounted one and leave my stock rear bumper as is for now.
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Thanks Mike. Some of the projects have been fun...
The tire carrier is from Savage, as are both bumpers. A few months back he discontinued making the 3rd gen rear bumper, and I believe modular stuff for it, like the swing-out. If interested, you might want to check with Roy.
Along those lines, my sliders are also discontinued. Stubbs is no longer making them...
. Please keep in touch during your "off-forum" time!
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