[thezentree]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

I'm learning/using a free ham radio software called CHIRP to program the radio with various frequencies. These will include simplex communications (radio to radio), repeaters, and receive only (local fire, police/sheriff, NOA and the like) frequencies. The first bank of 100 will be for the Bay Area. There are 1,000 memory slots or 10 banks of 100. Each bank will be dedicated to a geographical region. I envision one for Tahoe and one for LA, with the rest to be decided...

I'll finish-up the transmission cooler fan install soon, maybe next weekend. Committed to work on taxes starting this week...

I like CHIRP a lot. I've only used it for my baofengs but it has made programming those things super easy. I love that it links to regularly updated repeater databases.

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by thezentree

I like CHIRP a lot. I've only used it for my baofengs but it has made programming those things super easy. I love that it links to regularly updated repeater databases.

Cool, another CHIRP fan. I first found CHIRP in 2017, back when I became a ham again. I was a Tech+ in high school, but let it lapse, I think while in grad school...

When I went to re-open CHIRP a couple weeks back if failed to do so. I later learned that there are issues with Mac OS Catalina. Probably because of it's 64 bit requirement, but not sure. There is now a non-legacy Mac OS version of CHIRP that so far seems to be working well.

I have four Kenwood HTs (TH-F6A), hoping each in the family will get licensed at some point (wishful thinking), and it's really neat that one can mirror all of the programming performed on one to the others! I will mirror the same to this mobile unit (Kenwood TM-V71A), but since the TH-F6A is a tri-band, I'll strip-out those frequencies, with everything else identical. I found the programming cable, and need to try soon...

Did a ten minute mod today - small convex blindspot mirrors. A good 3-5 minutes for proper cleaning...

Being that I have the side mirrors adjusted very well already, for blind spot elimination, I really want these to help me see the roof rack, ham antenna (up or down), sides and rear corners of the 4Runner. These spots seem to do the trick.





Along with the back-up camera, the additional front and rear lighting, I find myself very satisfied with the increased visibility, and that includes me being seen too.

[TonyB66]

The tranny cooler fan install is done. Completed the wiring today. I was able to tuck the hot lead under the stainless steel zip ties.



Ground is about a foot way.



I sheathed the switched power up to where it enters the interior. The rust on the brake booster is an eyesore...



The wire labeled D from the switch box was under the carpet on the driver side.





I flipped the D switch.



And the fan did its thing (tissue paper test).



I'm going to meet-up with Tim this Saturday to perform some testing of the fan...

With that done, wanting to program the ham radio with CHIRP, I need to connect it to my computer. Really happy where I installed the unit under the driver seat. Access to the back of the radio from behind the seat.



I was able to get my hand in there to make the connection.



There is sufficient cable length to sit on the front or rear seat during programming.



I'll likely just keep it connected, roll it up under the seat...

A decently productive day.

[TonyB66]

Not sure how it happened, but I began looking at locations to secure the Hi-Lift jack. I've seen some lock them down in this area.



I'm not so keen on the studs used though, those sticking up. I would likely use a 10mm rivnuts instead. Then I revisited this spot.



It wedges-in quite nicely behind the rear seats. I'm visualizing using the tie-downs, maybe something like a turnbuckle (tie-down to a jack hole)...



Thoughts? Might be something better than a turnbuckle...

[TonyB66]

While I found a way to secure the jack with hardware, namely a U-bolt through a couple jack holes, then to a turnbuckle to a tie-down, I decided to use the Nite Ize CamJam XT's again (showed them earlier).





Althuogh rated for up to 3/8", I find that doesn't work so well. I went with 5/16" again.



With the figure 8 loop knot I decided to ultimately use, I cut those too short at 2'. 3 feet is better, but I'd recommend 4...







It's held in place very well. I just ordered more 5/16" paracord and I'll make the pieces longer next time. The stuff has a tensile strength of 3,000 lbs...

Not wanting for the ends of the jack to ruin the carpets on the wheel wells, I made use of some thick foam pads I saved from some packaging.







The rest of the jack, like the foot, will be kept in the recovery bag which goes in the rear storage space I created. Speaking of which, I've been wanting to remove the rubber "tits" on the bottom of the mat where it covers sheet metal. These things...



Took like 20 minutes. All removed.





Before there was a big hump there. Much better now...







And I finally shortened those thumb screws that secure the sheet metal. They were over 1/2" too long. I can now remove and fasten all four much faster...

Nice little wins today on things that I had been wanting to do. Tim came by today to do some testing on the tranny cooler fan. He noticed this.



Drat. I'll likely tackle this install after the Tahoe trip....



Those are the four Cadillac horns in that photo. I'm now thinking of selling those. Never installed. Not seeing much space for those now with this bumper, the winch and various lights added...

[TonyB66]

Well, I'm not quite giving-up on the Cadillac horns (4 - A,C,D & F) just yet... I see an opportunity in this location, two on each side.





With the driver side wheel/tire at full articulation to the right (photos), it has 2+ inches of clearance. While not protected by the skid, the bottom of the horns are above the skid. I think that spot will work well. The passenger side might be more difficult due to the wiper reservoir, but it looks doable...

This low, I'm wondering about damage from water crossings too.

I'm not going to put the grille back until I install these or other horns.

Note, the factory disc horns (DENSO and Maruko) are rated at 105 decibels. Contemplating these at 113 dBs.

https://smile.amazon.com/HELLA-01122...NrPXRydWU&th=1



Those are at a somewhat lower frequency (averaged at 385 Hz) compared to most offerings too, so should be deeper-sounding. Since a 10 dB delta is supposed to equate to a double or be 100% louder, these should be 80% louder. Between that, and likely with a deeper tone, mounted up high in the factory location well off the ground, these are being strongly considered. Also, disc horns are, or at least were the most reliable/dependable types too... Heck, for less than 20 bucks delivered, just ordered!

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Since a 10 dB delta is supposed to equate to a double or be 100% louder, these should be 80% louder.

6dB is a doubling in volume. The 8dB difference equates to ~2.5 times as loud...

-Charlie

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

6dB is a doubling in volume. The 8dB difference equates to ~2.5 times as loud...

-Charlie

Appreciate you chiming-in Charlie. Ok, you just had me check, which is a good thing at 50+, lol.

If I'm reading correctly, +3 dB makes a doubling in sound intensity or energy and +10 dB is a doubling of loudness/volume.

I just read that you are an electrical engineer, so I welcome your thoughts. Safe to say it should be somewhat louder. I'm not expecting a deep base, but with it being well under 400 Hz, it should not sound like the higher pitched meep-meep...

It comes later today. Think it's worth experimenting with a relay?

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Appreciate you chiming-in Charlie. Ok, you just had me check, which is a good thing at 50+, lol.

If I'm reading correctly, +3 dB makes a doubling in sound intensity or energy and +10 dB is a doubling of loudness/volume.

I just read that you are an electrical engineer, so I welcome your thoughts. Safe to say it should be somewhat louder. I'm not expecting a deep base, but with it being well under 400 Hz, it should not sound like the higher pitched meep-meep...

It comes later today. Think it's worth experimenting with a relay?

Mathematically, 6dB is doubling when you are talking about voltage, and 3dB is doubling when you are talking about power (voltage into a resistive load)...

It is weird, but a 10dB increase in audio levels will (generally) be perceived by the ears as twice as loud. It isn't always a simple thing converting instrument readings to human perception. 1dB is often sited as the smallest 'easily discernible' difference in volume to the human ear.

So, I made a mistake up there... 8dB would only be around 80% louder (which is still a LOT!)

-Charlie

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

Mathematically, 6dB is doubling when you are talking about voltage, and 3dB is doubling when you are talking about power (voltage into a resistive load)...

It is weird, but a 10dB increase in audio levels will (generally) be perceived by the ears as twice as loud. It isn't always a simple thing converting instrument readings to human perception. 1dB is often sited as the smallest 'easily discernible' difference in volume to the human ear.

So, I made a mistake up there... 8dB would only be around 80% louder (which is still a LOT!)

-Charlie

Good stuff Charlie. I follow you and I wouldn't call it a mistake. Literally, electrically, it was not... As we learned in Physics and other classes, the real world as we experience and perceive it is not in a vacuum. Think it might be at max loudness (+80%) with the stock wiring? Looks to be pretty thin gauge wire...

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Good stuff Charlie. I follow you and I wouldn't call it a mistake. Literally, electrically, it was not... As we learned in Physics and other classes, the real world as we experience and perceive it is not in a vacuum. Think it might be at max loudness (+80%) with the stock wiring? Looks to be pretty thin gauge wire...

Had to do a bit of searching... If you are using the Caddy horns, they draw something close to 5A each - so all 4 together would overpower the stock 15A HORN fuse.

Testing for voltage drop in the stock wiring would NOT be fun...

If whatever option you choose draws over 10A or so, I'd add an appropriate extra fuse/relay to power them.

-Charlie

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

Had to do a bit of searching... If you are using the Caddy horns, they draw something close to 5A each - so all 4 together would overpower the stock 15A HORN fuse.

Testing for voltage drop in the stock wiring would NOT be fun...

If whatever option you choose draws over 10A or so, I'd add an appropriate extra fuse/relay to power them.

-Charlie

Charlie, sorry, I should have clarified... I'll likely install the Caddy horns on the MINI, or sell them. The kit comes with a relay. Would be fun on the MINI though, but since I've had it on a diet (about 2,200 lbs), that wouldn't exactly make sense...

So, I was wondering about those Hella disc horns. And, they just arrived while typing...



They are somewhat larger, thicker too. On the box...





120 watts total, 12 volts, 10 amps... Right on the cusp of what you stated above. Thinking of going with a relay, but I might experiment first to see if there is a difference, a notable one.

[thezentree]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

I just read that you are an electrical engineer,

no fkn wonder he's a wiring diagram wizard - he's a sparky!

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by thezentree

no fkn wonder he's a wiring diagram wizard - he's a sparky!

Charlie is also a fantastic resource for seemingly all things 3rd gen, heck Toyotas in general...

I just remembered that I ordered a box of these last year.

Amazon.com: ONLINE LED STORE 5 Pack 5-Pin 12V Bosch Style Waterproof Relay Kit [Harness Socket] [12 AWG Hot Wires] [SPDT] [30/40 Amp] 12 Volt Automotive Marine Relays for Boats Auto Fan Cars: Automotive



So, I will likely go with a relay...

A couple months back I replaced the delta-checking O2 sensor out of need to pass smog. At the time I purchased the front A/F ratio sensor as well, but never installed it, until today. While there were no codes or readiness issues, I figured it best to swap it so both are essentially done at the same time. I put maybe just 100-200 miles on my 4Runner since passing smog...

The old one out.



Cleaned-up the 12mm nuts, painted.



and installed...



I'll put back the skids tomorrow, time permitting.

Since the one I removed was not causing any issues, I'm keeping it in case it's needed in a pinch...



I reset my average mileage on the UG, hoping to see an improvement.

EDIT/ADD:

Breather for front diff.



I'm going to extend this up to the firewall. Best to replace the factory hose, or just add an extension? Not sure if these hoses are known failure points...

Hey, do our e-lockers have a breather? I thought I read that it does, but I didn't see one. I didn't look more than a minute though...

[thezentree]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Charlie is also a fantastic resource for seemingly all things 3rd gen, heck Toyotas in general...

facts.

Originally Posted by TonyB66

EDIT/ADD:

Breather for front diff.



I'm going to extend this up to the firewall. Best to replace the factory hose, or just add an extension? Not sure if these hoses are known failure points...

Hey, do our e-lockers have a breather? I thought I read that it does, but I didn't see one. I didn't look more than a minute though...

That pic is the factory breather? I was thinking yesterday about how I need to find the breather on my front diff and make sure it's at least as high as my rear breather extension.

And yes, the elocker actuator has a separate breather. I don't know how high it goes from the factory (the junkyard cut the harness off when they pulled the axle) but it's wrapped up in the elocker harness.