10-31-2017, 12:48 AM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calnhob
Is it just me or are the pics not showing up?
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Same here, no photos showing up except for the charger/voltmeter one up top
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10-31-2017, 12:54 AM
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#17
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Congrats on the purchase! A clean, rust-free truck like that is a pleasure to wrench on. There's a lot of 3rd gen 4Runner activity in the SFO bay area.
@ mtbtim
hosted a get together for just such a purpose on precisely the same day you bought your truck
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10-31-2017, 01:32 AM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZiggy
Congrats on the purchase! A clean, rust-free truck like that is a pleasure to wrench on. There's a lot of 3rd gen 4Runner activity in the SFO bay area.
@ mtbtim
hosted a get together for just such a purpose on precisely the same day you bought your truck
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Thanks much JZ. Was aware of the gathering at Tim's place alright. From the accounts, quite a good time! If there's another one in the future, I'd very much like to be there.
Just ordered a pair of 7440 LED backup bulbs. Should be much brighter than stock...
Maybe it's my old eyes, but the interior dome lights seem to be lacking output-wise. If anyone knows what bulbs those are, please share. Reading threads now, so hopefully I'll find it myself...
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Maintenance/Build Thread
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10-31-2017, 01:49 AM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KojiKP
Same here, no photos showing up except for the charger/voltmeter one up top
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Strange. I logged-out, then opened a different browser, and was able to see all images. They were uploaded here, to a forum folder.
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Maintenance/Build Thread
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10-31-2017, 08:32 AM
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#20
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Join Date: May 2013
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Congrats Tony, I just found this thread; that's a sweet looking truck! Regardless of the color, you did great. Pics work for me on my phone.
Let's see some pics of the engine bay and a size view on level ground, not sure if it's just my old eyes or if the rear end is sagging. Might just have to *spring* for some suspension mods to keep the truck safe *wink*
Aside from the goodies you've got on order, start building your maintenance list, starting with the usual suspects:
-LBJs
-timing belt and water pump (200K if not sooner)
-radiator
-plugs and wires
-front end bushings
-etc
2000 was a good year for not too many electronics if you want to keep it simple, and yes cup holders. My insurance company didn't care how I was gonna use the truck, only the VIN, year and mileage - I'm surprised you had to explain yourself to them.
Looking forward to your build, I mean "4runner ownership journey" thread. Welcome to the family
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
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10-31-2017, 12:14 PM
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#21
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Congrats, looks really clean! I have the same color combo. It hides dirt amazingly well!
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10-31-2017, 01:11 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
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Brown radiator, gotta go
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
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10-31-2017, 01:33 PM
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#23
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Thanks all. Apparently I left the rear window down last night. Thankfully no rain. A few leaves, not cats, squirrels, etc...
Seems like the pictures work here again. Not sure how others do it, but it seems that one needs to upload them to the forum, into an album, then provide the link in the post. At least that's how I did it.
New FOB case arrived yesterday and replaced it with the broken one. All seems to work well. Except, one of the rear passenger doors didn't open. Then it worked. A little odd...
In addition to what I shared previously, ordered later last night:
DE3175 LED bulbs (qty 4, think I need 4), 300 lumens, for dome and map lighting...
Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
Congrats Tony, I just found this thread; that's a sweet looking truck! Regardless of the color, you did great. Pics work for me on my phone.
Let's see some pics of the engine bay and a size view on level ground, not sure if it's just my old eyes or if the rear end is sagging. Might just have to *spring* for some suspension mods to keep the truck safe *wink*
Aside from the goodies you've got on order, start building your maintenance list, starting with the usual suspects:
-LBJs
-timing belt and water pump (200K if not sooner)
-radiator
-plugs and wires
-front end bushings
-etc
2000 was a good year for not too many electronics if you want to keep it simple, and yes cup holders. My insurance company didn't care how I was gonna use the truck, only the VIN, year and mileage - I'm surprised you had to explain yourself to them.
Looking forward to your build, I mean "4runner ownership journey" thread. Welcome to the family
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
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Thanks again Mike. You were most helpful and supportive in other threads and via PMs too.
Strange you mention it. Just yesterday I put my weight (not a heavy guy) on the rear bumper and it dropped more than I would have expected. And, it felt very "springy". I have no reference point with 3rd gens though. Suspension is very much on the list. From reading here, a couple coil-over options will be discussed later, at some point. In that one thread I learned of Sonoran Steel, I think the 1.2 system. Look forward to such talk, but this will be after the remodel...
Oh, the timing belt and water pump were done at 185k miles! I'm at 191+ now. That said, I want to address this commingling of fluids. Something like has been in my Amazon cart (Saved for later):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
If there is anything more desirable, please do inform.
Are there any radiator options that are 100% non-plastic? Whenever I replaced these in the past, it was with all aluminum ones. I realize factory will likely get me another 200k though... Again, post house remodel.
On the LBJs, a forum member or two used the beefier Tacoma ones. I've been in sponge-mode for several months, but I believe I read that here. Thoughts? If I recall correctly, they might have needed some slight modification, but I think not much.
Tranny or differential fluids is something I can tackle in the short term. Recommendations on fluids is welcome. I did bookmark a thread or two on that topic though...
The brake system was flushed about a year ago.
I will do plugs and wires when I do my first oil change. Most of you guys go full synthetic? What oil filters? I'd like to start purchasing those items in quantity.
Minus a SC, header, exhaust, head work, not much to be gained powerwise, right? Something called the deckplate mod and some other one, I forgot...
This truck will be getting heavier, so I'd like to increase the output, or get more torque to help compensate. After reading a couple threads, I now have the ECT permanently on.
Odd for me to have a vehicle that will be getting heavier. In the MINI Cooper community I'm somewhat known for the opposite. I lightened her a few hundred pounds. We're talking excess wiring removed, seats, sound-deadening material inside and out, hidden roof rack mounts (pain to remove), you get the idea. Doesn't look gutted, but finished though. It's currently at 230 whp (around 270 crank), with plans to get it at or near 300. It's a hoot to drive now already. Laguna Seca is not far from me, so I hope to have some track days, some day...
Different animal here of course. Weight will get added, but even then I'll consider weight in my decision process when considering bumpers, a rack, brakes, etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cblock406
Congrats, looks really clean! I have the same color combo. It hides dirt amazingly well!
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Thanks. Desert Dune does look nice, I agree. Honestly, I would have purchased it with any factory color. The roof and part of the hood has some oxidation though. I'm not so keen on the silver cladding though. As I said in another thread, I'd prefer no cladding at all. But... the options I wanted, like the e-locker, were always on the Limiteds that I saw. Thinking seriously about bedliner on all of the cladding. Eventually maybe even the entire truck...
Checking-out your build thread today!
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Last edited by TonyB66; 10-31-2017 at 01:39 PM.
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10-31-2017, 02:11 PM
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#24
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Expurgated for efficiency
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
Strange you mention it. Just yesterday I put my weight (not a heavy guy) on the rear bumper and it dropped more than I would have expected. And, it felt very "springy". I have no reference point with 3rd gens though. Suspension is very much on the list. From reading here, a couple coil-over options will be discussed later, at some point. In that one thread I learned of Sonoran Steel, I think the 1.2 system.
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For $1500 delivered it's a serious solution to consider
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
Oh, the timing belt and water pump were done at 185k miles! I'm at 191+ now. That said, I want to address this commingling of fluids. Something like has been in my Amazon cart (Saved for later):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
If there is anything more desirable, please do inform.
Are there any radiator options that are 100% non-plastic? Whenever I replaced these in the past, it was with all aluminum ones. I realize factory will likely get me another 200k though... Again, post house remodel.
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Good thing on the belt. Put a sticker on the airbox saying "TB @ 285K"
I would get the Japanese Denso from a Toyota dealer for $120 delivered. To go Camelback Toyota, enter your vehicle info and search for radiator. Done.
Champion makes an all alu for about $300+ but I wouldn't bother. There may be others, but for $120 an OEM delivered to your door, Denso is GTG
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
On the LBJs, a forum member or two used the beefier Tacoma ones. I've been in sponge-mode for several months, but I believe I read that here. Thoughts? If I recall correctly, they might have needed some slight modification, but I think not much.
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Just get an OEM set off eBay or Amazon, they are like $98 each. Done
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
Tranny or differential fluids is something I can tackle in the short term. Recommendations on fluids is welcome. I did bookmark a thread or two on that topic though...
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You can do all this yourself. Trans can be staged over several fluid changes or all at once. A flush isn't easy but it's not impossible. Google it and choose which you want to do.
Draining the rear diff is cake. Do the rear diff breather mod at the same time just because. Most guys will use Toyota rear diff fluid, if you use aftermarket it's usually 80/90W but some will argue for 75W. If you have a drive through lube shop nearby they can do both for you, with a flush; see if they have a package deal and be prepared to spend over $200.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
I will do plugs and wires when I do my first oil change. Most of you guys go full synthetic? What oil filters? I'd like to start purchasing those items in quantity.
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Do the seafoam treatment and see what your oil looks like. The vacuum line off the PCV is a good one to use for the entire intake manifold if you want to do the top end too.
I am going full synthetic 5W30 with a WIX XP filter, PN 51348XP. If using conventional oil it's just PN 51348. If you need to do 3-4K oil changes (lots of city driving with prolonged idling) then don't bother with synthetic.
I went with NGK plugs and wires. Done. If you want "OEM" wires you can get them off Amazon or Camelback for about $50
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
Minus a SC, header, exhaust, head work, not much to be gained powerwise, right? Something called the deckplate mod and some other one, I forgot...
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I wouldn't bother with any of that just yet. If you go SC in the future then worry about mods to support it. I decided to skip the deckplate mod for my own reasons, mostly the negatives outweighed the positives.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
This truck will be getting heavier, so I'd like to increase the output, or get more torque to help compensate. After reading a couple threads, I now have the ECT permanently on.
Odd for me to have a vehicle that will be getting heavier. In the MINI Cooper community I'm somewhat known for the opposite. I lightened her a few hundred pounds. We're talking excess wiring removed, seats, sound-deadening material inside and out, hidden roof rack mounts (pain to remove), you get the idea. Doesn't look gutted, but finished though. It's currently at 230 whp (around 270 crank), with plans to get it at or near 300. It's a hoot to drive now already. Laguna Seca is not far from me, so I hope to have some track days, some day...
Different animal here of course. Weight will get added, but even then I'll consider weight in my decision process when considering bumpers, a rack, brakes, etc.
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ECT effects on MPG are debatable, but knowing when to use or turn off OD has been instrumental in my driving style and MPG/transmission life journey. Watch trans temp on your SGII and use your gears (even in an automatic) to your advantage - also helps save gas and prolong brake life. What is your gear ratio in that truck, 4.3:1?
Short of forced induction, re-gearing or a manual trans, you can't do much tuning to increase power in these trucks (no afternoon stroker mod) but you can pay for power at the pump by using 91 octane - other than that, REDUCING weight and accepting the fact that the vehicle profile DRAGS at freeway speed like a brick in a breeze - it's not a knife-edged design that cuts the wind, it's a truck. Sorry for that awful RO sentence.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
I'm not so keen on the silver cladding though. As I said in another thread, I'd prefer no cladding at all. But... the options I wanted, like the e-locker, were always on the Limiteds that I saw. Thinking seriously about bedliner on all of the cladding. Eventually maybe even the entire truck
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You can get bedliner mixed to match almost any color, so you can go real close to Desert Dune all around and color match your bumpers while you are at it. Or, if you are going to bed liner the entire truck, pull the cladding, fill the holes and shoot the truck. Done.
Now all you need is a sport hood
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto -> 2WD 4runner Journal Thread
1959 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup EVERYTHING done 'cept paint and body
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Last edited by octanejunkie; 10-31-2017 at 02:15 PM.
Reason: gooder grammar
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10-31-2017, 03:14 PM
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#25
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Mike, as always, good stuff from you. Thanks!
That Sonoran Steel 1.2 has my interest alright. Hoping to find folks here on the forum who went that route...
There is a sticker on the timing belt cover that says 185k. I'd do both at the same time. Either way, one more sticker can't hurt of course.
That Champion radiator is sometimes 220 bucks delivered. About 100 more than an OEM replacement. That might be worth it, for me at least...
I'd like to do the tranny and differential fluid changes myself, so that will be on my list before we hit snow country.
Since this will be a trip truck, as opposed to local stop/go traffic, I'll go full synthetic.
Do you go with Iridium NGKs, maybe like these?
https://www.amazon.com/NGK-BKR5EIX-1.../dp/B000A8JLIY
Seafoam has been doing its thing in the fuel since I bought it. I'll try to locate that vacuum line you mentioned off the PCV. I am still quite unfamiliar with the engine bay at this time... I'll add some to the oil in a few weeks, drive it a few miles, then do an oil change. Thanks for the WIX oil filter part number. Will purchase later today...
Yes, 4.3 gear ratio.
You like that hood as you mentioned it a few times to me. I do too. But, it's just for aesthetic reasons, right? Don't get me wrong... I have a blown car and the scoop serves a vital purpose (fresh air for inter-cooling). A scoop actually creates more drag. Hot engine bay air can vacate though, but then I'd rather have more appropriate vents for that purpose.
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Last edited by TonyB66; 10-31-2017 at 03:16 PM.
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11-01-2017, 12:02 AM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
Mike, as always, good stuff from you. Thanks!
That Sonoran Steel 1.2 has my interest alright. Hoping to find folks here on the forum who went that route...
There is a sticker on the timing belt cover that says 185k. I'd do both at the same time. Either way, one more sticker can't hurt of course.
That Champion radiator is sometimes 220 bucks delivered. About 100 more than an OEM replacement. That might be worth it, for me at least...
I'd like to do the tranny and differential fluid changes myself, so that will be on my list before we hit snow country.
Since this will be a trip truck, as opposed to local stop/go traffic, I'll go full synthetic.
Do you go with Iridium NGKs, maybe like these?
https://www.amazon.com/NGK-BKR5EIX-1.../dp/B000A8JLIY
Seafoam has been doing its thing in the fuel since I bought it. I'll try to locate that vacuum line you mentioned off the PCV. I am still quite unfamiliar with the engine bay at this time... I'll add some to the oil in a few weeks, drive it a few miles, then do an oil change. Thanks for the WIX oil filter part number. Will purchase later today...
Yes, 4.3 gear ratio.
You like that hood as you mentioned it a few times to me. I do too. But, it's just for aesthetic reasons, right? Don't get me wrong... I have a blown car and the scoop serves a vital purpose (fresh air for inter-cooling). A scoop actually creates more drag. Hot engine bay air can vacate though, but then I'd rather have more appropriate vents for that purpose.
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I've heard from a few that the SS1.2 is a worthy contender. If I had to do it over again I'd likely go that way as mine would be light wheeling/snow driven as opposed to a crawler.
Champion rads are chinese made and are generally okay, I really don't mind stock/plastic rads that fit as designed, and if they last 200K how many are you really gonna buy?
I went with the standard, non-irridium NGK plug.
Sport hoods are cool. Idgaf about drag, it looks boss. Go get you one, the house can wait. Lol
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
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11-01-2017, 02:36 AM
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#27
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I did comment earlier that the OEM radiator is approaching 200k miles, so that is a consideration to go that route, again...
Well, I just ordered this, probably to arrive after the holidays.
I'll start looking for ScanGauge 2 mount locations tomorrow. The cable arrives on Thu...
On display, I'll likely choose:
1. Intake air temp
2. Coolant temp
3. Trany temp
4. Average fuel economy
The voltage display seems to work well from that cigarette lighter/USB charger. Reads generally from 14 to 14.2 volts while driving. No need to use the SG2 for volts...
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11-01-2017, 09:18 AM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
I'll start looking for ScanGauge 2 mount locations tomorrow. The cable arrives on Thu...
On display, I'll likely choose:
1. Intake air temp
2. Coolant temp
3. Trany temp
4. Average fuel economy
The voltage display seems to work well from that cigarette lighter/USB charger. Reads generally from 14 to 14.2 volts while driving. No need to use the SG2 for volts...
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The best place for the SGII I've seen is right on top of the steering column in front of the gauge cluster - you're not missing much there except a few idiot lights. Anything else will have you looking away from the road, unless you go dashtop.
Your choices of monitors are reasonable, I use TorquePro and have those temps plus MAF, Fuel Trims, Load and Timing on display as well as RPM so I can get a single-screen view of how hard my engine is working in a glance.
Average fuel economy is a balancing act I've not yet learned to accurately tune, so I ditched it. I've done enough driving to have an idea of my overall fuel economy which is 14-17 in the city/daily driving and 18-22 HWY driving out to NV. YMMV
My vanity plate took 15 weeks. You should have yours by Easter. Thanks Gov Brown.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
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11-01-2017, 01:50 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
The best place for the SGII I've seen is right on top of the steering column in front of the gauge cluster - you're not missing much there except a few idiot lights. Anything else will have you looking away from the road, unless you go dashtop.
Your choices of monitors are reasonable, I use TorquePro and have those temps plus MAF, Fuel Trims, Load and Timing on display as well as RPM so I can get a single-screen view of how hard my engine is working in a glance.
Average fuel economy is a balancing act I've not yet learned to accurately tune, so I ditched it. I've done enough driving to have an idea of my overall fuel economy which is 14-17 in the city/daily driving and 18-22 HWY driving out to NV. YMMV
My vanity plate took 15 weeks. You should have yours by Easter. Thanks Gov Brown.
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I imagine once I understand what the fuel efficiency is in various scenarios I'll opt for a different metric. Yanking it out of my MINI after my next meeting (work from home)...
I'll try it on top of the column first, as you described Mike. I did indeed see a few different mounting locations in various threads... That one seems to make the most sense.
I'll be wanting to mount a mobile ham radio (Kenwood TMV71A) at some point, and I'm thinking of removing the factory radio, going single DIN to free-up a space for that unit. It has a detachable face, so there might be some creative options:
https://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=H0-008951
Hey, is there a brightness adjust on the automatic climate control? The dash knob that adjusts such display lighting doesn't impact that unit. Does the stereo though, so I would think that it should do the automatic climate control, so maybe a loose connection...
Oh, I found a thread on the PCV location to use Seafoam (first post, photos):
You've been doing it wrong. Seafoam injection port
Toward the end, some apparently are using a Seafoam spray at the TB though...
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Last edited by TonyB66; 11-01-2017 at 01:52 PM.
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11-01-2017, 07:23 PM
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#30
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Seafoam in fuel tank, check.
Seafoam in the vacuum lines, check.
Always liked doing this one because of the glorious pontiff-like white smoke! There was not a ton, but a fair amount though. The set-up I use on my MINI worked perfectly.
The threaded brass fitting is for an intercooler bung on my MINI, but it slides perfectly into the vacuum line in this application.
Used about 3/4 of the Seafoam bottle. Will put the remainder in the crankcase later today. Looks like it needs to be 1.5 ounces per quart of oil. Seems that we have about 5.5 to 6 quarts. About 1/2 can is needed, so I'll open another bottle. The oil is actually approaching the fill mark, a bit low, so that is a good thing here...
Air filter seems ok. I have K&N oiled air filters in our other cars, not always for performance gains, but to not have those recurring costs to buy new filters. Looks like our K&N option is a drop-in, as opposed to a cone?
Speaking of air, the air box seems to pull-in outside air from the passenger wheel well area? I didn't have time to go under and explore, but it points that way...
Ordered some more maintenance-related stuff:
NGK (4302) BKR5EKPB 11 4 Pack x 2 (I know, wish we needed 8!)
First thought I need two of these! Learning curve is still upon me...
Are these hairline cracks?
__________________
2000 Limited, E-locker
Maintenance/Build Thread
Last edited by TonyB66; 11-01-2017 at 07:25 PM.
Reason: spelling and grammar
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