[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Seafoam in fuel tank, check.
Seafoam in the vacuum lines, check.

Always liked doing this one because of the glorious pontiff-like white smoke! There was not a ton, but a fair amount though. The set-up I use on my MINI worked perfectly.


The threaded brass fitting is for an intercooler bung on my MINI, but it slides perfectly into the vacuum line in this application.



Used about 3/4 of the Seafoam bottle. Will put the remainder in the crankcase later today. Looks like it needs to be 1.5 ounces per quart of oil. Seems that we have about 5.5 to 6 quarts. About 1/2 can is needed, so I'll open another bottle. The oil is actually approaching the fill mark, a bit low, so that is a good thing here...

I have a similar setup with a funnel and an adapter for that hose.

SeaFoam wants 2 oz per gallon in the tank, so that’s 1 can per 8 gallons of gas or 2 cans per tankful. A less expensive option in the tank and crankcase is Marvel Mystery Oil. 32oz of that is like $3 at Walmart.

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Air filter seems ok. I have K&N oiled air filters in our other cars, not always for performance gains, but to not have those recurring costs to buy new filters. Looks like our K&N option is a drop-in, as opposed to a cone?

Speaking of air, the air box seems to pull-in outside air from the passenger wheel well area? I didn't have time to go under and explore, but it points that way...

No to K&N, it’s oil will wreak havoc with the MAF sensor over time. Just get plain paper filters, WIX or similar, and change them every second oil change or knock them out, really depends on how dusty they get. I use el cheapo air filter from Amazon via subscription that costs like $11 and doesn't require washing and oiling. I always hated that on my dirtbike.

Yes, the air box draws from the wheel well.

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Ordered some more maintenance-related stuff:





NGK (4302) BKR5EKPB 11 4 Pack x 2 (I know, wish we needed 8!)


First thought I need two of these! Learning curve is still upon me...


Are these hairline cracks?

Most guys opt for Toyota OEM fuel filters, but you are free to do as you like. Toyota’s fuel filters are lifetime so I don’t know why you are changing it. LMAO (inside joke)

8 plugs now means you only need to buy 4 next time

One set of wires, remember, one coil per two plugs LOL

Those do look like hairline cracks… got a closeup?

[theesotericone]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Toyota’s fuel filters are lifetime so I don’t know why you are changing it. LMAO (inside joke)

Mine was still doing it's job just fine when I replaced it at 235,000 miles. I was gonna cut it open and take a look but we all know how lazy I am. lol

[Beaumont67]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

...........Champion rads are chinese made and are generally okay, I really don't mind stock/plastic rads that fit as designed, and if they last 200K how many are you really gonna buy?..........

octanejunkie ^^ I didn't buy the oil filter 51348XP / hope my WIX 51516XP works...might just be a longer one ??

My brother bought an aluminum Champion rad, off E-bay for his 2000 Jeep Wrangler.
- 14 months later, 2 rads had leaked and he got his money refunded

Radiators - Koyo vs The REST
- Koyo HH Series Radiators are built to fit like OEM. They provide improved cooling with OEM size and thickness. The radiator is fully polished to a mirror finish and has a 48mm core. All Koyo aluminum radiators are made from aircraft quality aluminum with heli-arc welded cores that are NOCOLOK-brazed. They are built to handles high revving, high performance motors, and is perfect for turbocharged, supercharged, and nitrous oxide equipped engines.

Fluids, the WIX XP Platinum are extended mileage filters / all I use.
- they contain a synthetic media / also sold to Amsoil & rebranded
- purchased from Filter1.com

I no longer use Amsoil (Group IV & way to expensive), except for Syn. grease / Redline for the Transmission & Gear oil.
And Pennzoil Ultra for engine oil, made from 99.5% clean Natural Gas base stock.
- my engine oil change frequency is 10,000 Km or 6,200 miles
- 2000 4Runner SR5 v6 https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilGarage/...OTA+4-RUNNER+8
- Transmission Synthetic Group V - D6 ATF - gallon - $49.95 @ Summit / 30705
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/red-30705
- Our lowest viscosity, most shear-stable ATF for consistent operation, designed to satisfy Dexron-VI®, Mercon®SP, Mercon®LV, Honda DW-1, Toyota WS, Mercedes Benz NAG-2, ZF-LG 6, 6+ and 8 fluids

Dimple Magnets for pan ($35 each) & oil filter (4pk for $35)...quality products & Made in USA...Phone 1-704-320-0700
Canadian distributor in ON. sells them for $35 Cdn & free shipping if buy 3 products...Phone 1-905-665-7883
Magnetic Drain Plugs - Dimple Products

Originally Posted by Beaumont67

For the Gear Heads...and there are a few here:
- always wanted a vehicle Jump Starter/Battery Pack unit
- a strong capacity HD one, is like $300 in Canada
- did a fair amount of YouTube research, and got a good one for $99.99 US$ each / ordered 2
- also purchased one for our son, from Dad for Xmas ... there are times travelling, his Apple Laptop battery goes dead, so it can be quickly recharged
- unit is getting a 4.5 star review, over 100's of positive comments
Will even work on our JD's...LOL

GOOLOO 1000A Peak 20800mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (Up to 8.0L Gas, 6.0L Diesel Engine)
- 12V Auto Battery Booster Phone Charger Power Pack Built-in LED Light and Smart Protection
https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-20800m...WSFT3VXR3R44T8

[octanejunkie]

Lots of info there @Beaumont67 gonna have to follow those links and read up some

Originally Posted by Beaumont67

octanejunkie ^^ I didn't buy the oil filter 51348XP / hope my WIX 51516XP works...might just be a longer one ??

I linked the specs of the two WIX XP filters mentioned, seems the only palpable difference here is 1.424" in length - "that's what she said"

[TonyB66]

Indeed, plenty of reading. Good stuff.

Beaumont67, thanks for bringing-up the Koyo radiator. Has my interest...

With respect to the "lifetime" fuel filter, I read a few accounts here where they'd recommend replacement at 200k miles. I generally like to replace such stuff after flushing gunk through the system anyway (Seafoam treatment). For the price, and what hopefully is an easy job, seemed like a no-brainer at 191k miles... Maybe should have gotten the Toyota one though.

Ok, no K&N. Just ordered a couple of those Amazon specials that you linked to Mike, thanks. I have on my "list" to inspect and clean the TB and MAF. Hopefully tomorrow during a break in my work schedule...

I'll see if I can get a better image of the brake fluid reservoir. I hope it's not cracks. I'll search here to see if this is a common issue...

Oh, the WeatherTechs arrived today. They fit quite well, and look nice also.

When we took the kids out last night, we used the T4R, and two of three rear seat belt receptacles were not catching all that well, one in particular wouldn't work. Not sure if it's a common issue, but I will either try to fix them or see if there are replacements. I also noted that the rear hatch doesn't raise up to the top all by itself as it needs an extra nudge or two. So, I'm guessing that it might be time for new gas lifters, or whatever they are...

Interior and back-up bulbs coming tomorrow, along with the SC2 cable.

[octanejunkie]

Its common to mix up the center belt and the driver size rear receiver. Note the m/f pair marked "center"

Rear liftgate struts are a common fail. Strong Arm struts are quick and easy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030DIRIG..._0hQ-zbFVC3X40

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Its common to mix up the center belt and the driver size rear receiver. Note the m/f pair marked "center"

Rear liftgate struts are a common fail. Strong Arm struts are quick and easy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030DIRIG..._0hQ-zbFVC3X40

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Ordered (liftgate struts)! Coming Saturday... UPS and FedEx trucks every day.

I will check the seat belts more carefully and hopefully that's all that it is...

Huge help Mike, thanks.

Edit/Add:

Hopefully a larger, more clear image:

[TonyB66]

Back-up lights are nice and bright now. Sort of need to slap the light assemblies outward to get them out, huh? "Talk dirty to me" type of truck I see...

Got the wrong bulbs for the two map lights in the front though. It's the type with the two offset nubs, with a twist to lock. I'll find the right ones. I got the two dome lights done, the ones that activate with the doors, and what a huge difference bright LEDs make! The rear hatch light sometimes doesn't come-on when the door lifts up, so that will need to get sorted-out.

Got the SG2 cable today. I'll get the trany temp set-up tomorrow. Normal for these trucks to have coolant temps in the 200-206 range? It was 204 like 90% of the drive home, on a somewhat cool CA Fall evening, and short drive. I'm accustomed to my other car hanging-out at 181. I'll read-up on our t-stat...

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

...Got the SG2 cable today. I'll get the trany temp set-up tomorrow. Normal for these trucks to have coolant temps in the 200-206 range? It was 204 like 90% of the drive home, on a somewhat cool CA Fall evening, and short drive. I'm accustomed to my other car hanging-out at 181. I'll read-up on our t-stat...

As stated, I did some reading, and it would seem that my t-stat jiggle valve orientation is the culprit (12 o'clock, but should be at 6, per the FSM).

So, that promise to not wrench on the truck until the house is done... Damn. I know, not much. Is there way to do this without losing much coolant? Whatever I lose, just top it off...

If one needs to basically drain the whole system, coupled with my need for a new radiator, that should ideally get addressed at the same time.

Won't go up to Tahoe, experiencing those grades, with the temps I saw last night.

[octanejunkie]

That master cylinder is cracked af, but seeing that it doesn't see any pressure I'd say no hurry to replace

My coolant temp is never that high, average high is maybe 192-195. I would wait to do the radiator so you have better access to the thermostat, but running your coolant that high in the winter won't be an issue for you, I'd think.
Get the upper and lower hoses at the same time as well as a new radiator cap and yes, you will drain the whole system, less the block. If the coolant looks good you can strain (cheese cloth or similar) and reuse, or replace with either Toyota Red or Zyrex Asian formula 50/50. Cost either way will be about the same because the Toyota Red is 100% and you need to cut is with distilled water. I resued mine, strained it, and topped off with Zyrex. Purists and pundits will disagree but I'm indifferent to that rhetoric.

The map bulbs are "festoon" type - same as dome and rear cargo area. I used these from superbrightleds.com in those areas and upgraded my map bulbs to LED panels from eBay - turns out those are too bright for my liking.

[TonyB66]

Agree on the master. I'll add it to the list of things to address next year, or sooner, if needed...

Those temps are bothersome as it was during normal driving at speed, just me in the car, a pretty cool CA night. 204, up to 206. That means my trany temps are likely to get higher than what they should too. Load-up the family of four and our stuff for snow country... I need to check that t-stat.

I'll order a factory t-stat. I guess I need a gasket too? A new radiator will have a new cap, I would think. Might as well since I need a new radiator anyways (brown top, as you noticed). Upper and lower hoses, good idea. We actually "make" distilled water at home. It's literally on tap. I'll buy some coolant...

If the map lights are the ones up by the rear view mirror, by the moonroof controls, those are not the festoon type in my truck. The dome lights are though...

Looks like I can get the factory rad for 110 bucks here:

https://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth....YT10b3lvdGE%3D

Edit / Add: Checked a couple local Toyota dealerships and they want like 220 bucks for a radiator; and will not price match.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Agree on the master. I'll add it to the list of things to address next year, or sooner, if needed...

Those temps are bothersome as it was during normal driving at speed, just me in the car, a pretty cool CA night. 204, up to 206. That means my trany temps are likely to get higher than what they should too. Load-up the family of four and our stuff for snow country... I need to check that t-stat.

I'll order a factory t-stat. I guess I need a gasket too? A new radiator will have a new cap, I would think. Might as well since I need a new radiator anyways (brown top, as you noticed). Upper and lower hoses, good idea. We actually "make" distilled water at home. It's literally on tap. I'll buy some coolant...

Your radiator will not overheat your trans, rest assured of that. LOL
I just drove up Topanga Canyon from the PCH and with OD on my trans temp shot to 222 degrees. Took OD off and it dropped down to 195.

If you make actual distilled water I'd be impressed, since distilled water is actually boiled and collected - just like a distillery does when making hard liquor. Most homeowners have either a water softener or a reverse osmosis system. For $1 a bottle, I buy distilled at the market when mixing coolant.

Originally Posted by TonyB66

If the map lights are the ones up by the rear view mirror, by the moonroof controls, those are not the festoon type in my truck. The dome lights are though...

Might need to go out to the car to check my map light bulbs...

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Looks like I can get the factory rad for 110 bucks here:

https://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth....YT10b3lvdGE%3D

Edit / Add: Checked a couple local Toyota dealerships and they want like 220 bucks for a radiator; and will not price match.

Here is the camelback link, note free shipping

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Your radiator will not overheat your trans, rest assured of that. LOL
I just drove up Topanga Canyon from the PCH and with OD on my trans temp shot to 222 degrees. Took OD off and it dropped down to 195.

If you make actual distilled water I'd be impressed, since distilled water is actually boiled and collected - just like a distillery does when making hard liquor. Most homeowners have either a water softener or a reverse osmosis system. For $1 a bottle, I buy distilled at the market when mixing coolant.



Might need to go out to the car to check my map light bulbs...



Here is the camelback link, note free shipping

Damn, shipping with that one I found was an addtional 144 bucks!!!

Ok, thanks for the Camelback link.

Yes, we have a boil chamber where we make distilled water (collects the condensation). We use about 1-2 gallons a day. Cheaper to make (I did the math), and less hassle. I actually had a solar water still at our old home in the mountains that I sold...

Might just order everything from Camelback, hoses, t-stat, and gasket if needed or not included....

[octanejunkie]

Well, color me impressed, and like my dad always said, don't piss off a guy that owns a boiling chamber.

Check pricing on amazon too for everything except the rad, sometimes amazon is cheaper, and faster. The next best place for OEM parts is Amayama, but shipping ain't 2 days.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[TonyB66]

Spoke with Lisa, Christina and then Georgo at Camelback. Nice folks.

I'm all set. For the items ordered, I don't even think Amazon beat them on price. If so, it was quite negligible...

Before I forget, the Cambelback website (https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com) does not take credit card, only PayPal. They confirmed that is true (was trying to no avail). But, in speaking with George, he told me about a newer website he set-up that is easier for him, same pricing, and also takes credit card:

https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/

Shipping was not free as the radiator is going to be in an oversize box. Drat. Only 10 bucks though. Was going to be 13, but since I'm a new customer...

A screenshot of what I ordered, but captured from their main website. The same login won't work, so need to register at that site too...



Radiator, upper & lower hoses, rad cap, t-stat and t-stat gasket...