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Old 11-07-2017, 12:32 PM #16
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Nice job on the files and if you plan to sell a set I'm interested pending affordability of course!
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Old 11-07-2017, 02:52 PM #17
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you're awesome man! Makes me want to get into 3D printing - but have no clue where to even start
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Old 11-07-2017, 08:23 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus clarkus View Post
Hmmm I'm not sure, those are looking really close. I'll get some measurements for you in the next couple of days.
Cool, thanks.. As a basic reference point, the slider ends just shy of the rear(out of two) fender mounting bolt... Does this come that far back?
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Old 11-07-2017, 10:55 PM #19
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Awesome! My dfarms set never fit very well and the passenger side is going to break off any day. I hope somebody starts printing these for a reasonable price.
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Old 11-07-2017, 11:18 PM #20
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There may be another way to obtain these items if someone is willing to loan genuine copies of the desired flaps to a manufacturer. (They'll be returned!) In exchange, the lender will receive a set of the flaps. I first proposed this in a thread a few years ago. I'm trying again, and this time I've exchanged emails with that manufacturer and he's agreed to look into it.

Here's a link to that company.

Featured Products

In particular, note the mud flaps he makes for the Honda CB77 and CB92.

This is an edited version of the email I sent to Clauss Studios. The owner's name is Greg.

The 96-02 4Runner came with 3 different moldings around the wheel wells, depending on the trim level (Base, SR5, or Limited)

1. No trim at all. (Base models, maybe a few SR5s)

2. Thin. Click here for a photo. Many, but not all, SR5 models had this. It was likely an option on Base models.

3. The full monty. These came in two styles. Black, click here for a photo. Or body color, click here. All Limited models have these. Many SR5 models do as well.

Let's call these type 1, type 2, and type 3.

The front mudguards to fit Type 1 or Type 2 are readily available. ... These mudguards don't have to blend in to the fender molding.

The issue comes when you remove the running boards on a Type 3. You need a mudguard to blend into the wheel well molding. At one time these were available from Toyota. They no longer are, and are the Holy Grail for Gen3 owners. ...There's always some guy looking, and claiming to have found them at a Toyota dealer, and then he's crushed when somebody tells him he's found the front mudguards to fit a Type 1 or 2.

By my crude estimation, over half of those 750,000 Gen3s sold in the US (and about 10% that many sold in Canada) have Type 3 moldings.


And here is Greg's reply:

,,,,,, so do you have a set of type 3 i can copy ? i need a good example to make a mold

thx Greg clauss


Sadly I don't have them: all the Gen3s I've owned have used what I call the type 1 or type 2 mudguards. Greg sent another reply:

ok thanks i would be happy to give out a free set or two for the loan

And there it is. Somebody could run with this. Look at Greg's products. It's quality stuff.

If I have made a mistake in my description of the vehicles needing these NLA mud guards, I apologize and invite correction.
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Old 11-08-2017, 12:03 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
I would be quite happy to do all the finishing to take a rough printed part to a finished (painted) part on the truck. I would assume many guys would rather do the work than pay the extra cost it would take to pay somebody to do the finishing (filling, sanding, painting, etc.).

I'd love to just have a place to go order a rough set. I'll be watching this closely...

Otherwise, I'll keep the front running board caps and hand modify them, as I have an idea for that too.

-Charlie
Ditto. I'm in for a rough set and will gladly finish them myself.

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Old 11-08-2017, 12:10 AM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidch View Post
There may be another way to obtain these items if someone is willing to loan genuine copies of the desired flaps to a manufacturer. (They'll be returned!) In exchange, the lender will receive a set of the flaps. I first proposed this in a thread a few years ago. I'm trying again, and this time I've exchanged emails with that manufacturer and he's agreed to look into it.

Here's a link to that company.

Featured Products

In particular, note the mud flaps he makes for the Honda CB77 and CB92.

This is an edited version of the email I sent to Clauss Studios. The owner's name is Greg.

The 96-02 4Runner came with 3 different moldings around the wheel wells, depending on the trim level (Base, SR5, or Limited)

1. No trim at all. (Base models, maybe a few SR5s)

2. Thin. Click here for a photo. Many, but not all, SR5 models had this. It was likely an option on Base models.

3. The full monty. These came in two styles. Black, click here for a photo. Or body color, click here. All Limited models have these. Many SR5 models do as well.

Let's call these type 1, type 2, and type 3.

The front mudguards to fit Type 1 or Type 2 are readily available. ... These mudguards don't have to blend in to the fender molding.

The issue comes when you remove the running boards on a Type 3. You need a mudguard to blend into the wheel well molding. At one time these were available from Toyota. They no longer are, and are the Holy Grail for Gen3 owners. ...There's always some guy looking, and claiming to have found them at a Toyota dealer, and then he's crushed when somebody tells him he's found the front mudguards to fit a Type 1 or 2.

By my crude estimation, over half of those 750,000 Gen3s sold in the US (and about 10% that many sold in Canada) have Type 3 moldings.


And here is Greg's reply:

,,,,,, so do you have a set of type 3 i can copy ? i need a good example to make a mold

thx Greg clauss


Sadly I don't have them: all the Gen3s I've owned have used what I call the type 1 or type 2 mudguards. Greg sent another reply:

ok thanks i would be happy to give out a free set or two for the loan

And there it is. Somebody could run with this. Look at Greg's products. It's quality stuff.

If I have made a mistake in my description of the vehicles needing these NLA mud guards, I apologize and invite correction.
I think you have #2 and #3 muddled up a bit, but I might be wrong

The SR5 Sport has the thinner, flexible, rough-finished flares and the rear of the front wheel flare sweeps into the running board acting as the "cap". When removing the running boards on this model, taking the flare cap with it, you are left with an unsightly, gapped flare that doesn't reach the bottom body line. If you leave the flare/running board cap on, it looks silly. If I understand your classification system correctly, this would be your #2

#3, the Limited flare, is larger and smooth-finished, made of hard plastic on all model years and includes body cladding and is painted in a complementary color; often silver. The 2001 and 2002 SR5 Sport have this same style flare, sans the body cladding of the Limited, but is usually body color matched. This flare actually stops short of the running board on all model years, so removal of the running boards on Limited and and 2001-2002 SR5s does NOT leave the same gap as the #2 flare does.

Please correct me if I am grossly wrong or just ban me already. Okay thanks.
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Last edited by octanejunkie; 11-08-2017 at 12:17 AM. Reason: gooder grammar
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:21 PM #23
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Subscribed, will see if i can get these made locally so i can pull my running boards off with confidence!
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:38 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidch View Post
There may be another way to obtain these items if someone is willing to loan genuine copies of the desired flaps to a manufacturer. (They'll be returned!) In exchange, the lender will receive a set of the flaps. I first proposed this in a thread a few years ago. I'm trying again, and this time I've exchanged emails with that manufacturer and he's agreed to look into it.

Here's a link to that company.

Featured Products
Hi David,

I have an additional pair of the elusive Front Mud Flaps - new and still in the original bags (like the ones seen in the pic below). How can I get a guarantee that they would be returned?

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Last edited by TRD 4RNR; 11-08-2017 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:47 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus clarkus View Post
Cool thanks for the tips! I thought of doing a urethane cast of these but didn't want to invest the time/effort/money haha. Also, the geometry isn't open-shut so I think I would need some sort of external slide or a one-use mold...not exactly sure how that would work for urethane casting, I come from the plastic injection molding world. What do you think? And do you have any interest in making a mold?

Also, have you ever tried brushing on an epoxy to finish parts?
Think "cavity core" mold. It would be a LOT of smooth-on to make a production mold but judging by the 3D printed part, it looks like it could be made with a 2 part mold.

I haven't used urethane to smooth over a printed part, but I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as the resin doesn't attack the ABS.

Logistically, making the mold wouldn't work out very well. The place where I'd do the work costs $40/day for access ( commercial maker space) plus the amount of materials to cast the molds, then produce a 1st article part would be in the hundreds of $$ to get to that point. It's a feasible project, just not with the facilities that I have access to.
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Old 11-08-2017, 05:26 PM #26
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+99 Great job on the scanning and modeling!

How long did it take your Makerbot to print each piece?

I'm showing its an estimated 9 Hours to do one side in ABS, using Kisslicer and setup for a local makerspaces 3d printer.
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Old 11-08-2017, 06:32 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD 4RNR View Post
Hi David,

I have an additional pair of the elusive Front Mud Flaps - new and still in the original bags (like the ones seen in the pic below). How can I get a guarantee that they would be returned?

That the business has existed since 1991 and has a professional web site serves as some sort of confidence. Maybe Greg, the owner, could offer more assurances, a recommendation from a satisfied customer, or something like that. I do understand your concern: one surrenders the irreplaceable with only the utmost caution.
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:47 PM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus clarkus View Post
I decided to fix the broken Makerbot Replicator 2X we had at work that has been collecting dust for 3 years, after 4 people gave up on fixing it. Turns out, it wasn’t all that hard, but this led me to my next issue -- the mudflap is too big to print on this 3D printer.



So I spent a few hours in the CAD world chopping up the file so it would fit, but still have the right look. I’m pretty happy with the result:
What's the print envelope of that Makerbot? 12x12x12"?
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Old 11-08-2017, 11:42 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poopypants View Post
Cool, thanks.. As a basic reference point, the slider ends just shy of the rear(out of two) fender mounting bolt... Does this come that far back?
Yeah it ends right around there... I'll get pics this weekend for ya

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndhandyotaman View Post
Think "cavity core" mold. It would be a LOT of smooth-on to make a production mold but judging by the 3D printed part, it looks like it could be made with a 2 part mold.

I haven't used urethane to smooth over a printed part, but I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as the resin doesn't attack the ABS.

Logistically, making the mold wouldn't work out very well. The place where I'd do the work costs $40/day for access ( commercial maker space) plus the amount of materials to cast the molds, then produce a 1st article part would be in the hundreds of $$ to get to that point. It's a feasible project, just not with the facilities that I have access to.
Cool thanks for the info. Out of curiosity, which commercial makerspace are you referring to? The Foundery? They moved to their new space right around the same time I moved out of Baltimore so I never got to see it.
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Old 11-09-2017, 07:46 AM #30
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Awesome job Marcus, thanks for posting the CAD files. I'm going to look into getting these printed at work, and if that doesn't work out for me then I'll see if I can make it happen through this forum. If you do have a set for sale, how much would you be asking for it?

For anyone wishing to view the CAD files, you can download FreeCAD from here https://www.freecadweb.org/ its a free solidworks type program. Its definitely not as good, but it is capable of some tasks.

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