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Old 11-17-2017, 02:58 AM #16
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In for a penny, in for a pound.

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Old 12-01-2017, 10:36 AM #17
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In for a penny, in for a pound.

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Alrighty my fiends, including you @octanejunkie ... we were chatting about the ARB bumper in another thread & I got a call that mine was going to be scheduled for delivery but without being able to accept it at my house I opted to pick it up from the shipping company.

I was a little concerned when I saw the box as it looking like a forklift wasn't so gentle but I inspected where it looked like some damage could have occurred & it looked ok so I accepted it & loaded it up in the back!


I'm trying to coordinate some tim with my buddy @mtbtim so we can film this install for
Future 3rd gen'rs but basically the only thing you have to do is cut the frame rail bumper mounting ends off so the crush cans can fit over the frame..

There are a lot of options for off-road front bumpers out there on the market but IMO this bumper has good bang for your buck, is in stock & doesn't take 3-6 months to arrive & will
Match my thundercloud 4runner quite nicely.

I also sold my front bumper off this rig to supplement the cost of an oddly priced $866 bumper.
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Last edited by infamousRNR; 12-01-2017 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:41 AM #18
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Yours came in a box? Mine was just strapped to a pallet

Install party this Saturday? We can install them separately together.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:27 PM #19
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Interested to see where this one goes!
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Old 12-12-2017, 01:25 PM #20
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Ok so I'm pretty stuck right now with my ignition...

I attempted to pull my ignition cylinder but wasn't successful..

It wouldn't come out of its home!!!! It's in ACC & I pushed the little pin in on the bottom & it's just plane stuck... plus the ignition cylinder I bought from another member is for a vehicle without theft protection with the chip/transponder key.. so although it could technically work, the front where the key goes into is slightly different & I fear the transponder ring won't fit back on properly...

I don't recall ever reading on here over the last couple years of someone drilling out their ignition cylinder & I really don't know where to go from here... if it hadn't been drilled out by the previous owner I'm sure it would just slide out like it sounds suppose to.


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Old 12-12-2017, 01:41 PM #21
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nice project
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:36 PM #22
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I'm in for some good MacGuyvering
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:33 PM #23
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That sucks, sorry

Google found this for you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0CRdsFtWdQ
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Old 12-12-2017, 07:31 PM #24
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Quote:
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That sucks, sorry

Google found this for you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0CRdsFtWdQ
thanks for the link but he effortlessly removes the cylinder after pushing in the pin at the bottom.....

for me its just completely stuck.. it moves like a 1/4 of an inch and then just stops...

on top of this though, the ignition cylinder i bought is for a non-limited.. so i don't even think the transponder ring will fit once i put the new one in...

does anyone know the part number for a transponder cylinder key ignition..

parts diagrams say they are the same part number

i guess my next step is to drill out the little spring mechanism that you can depress when its in the ACC position to attempt to pull it out
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Old 01-11-2018, 01:12 AM #25
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Got my ARB Bumper on the Runner a little over a week ago now. what I ended up doing was swapping the ARB bumper that was on my main bae onto this black one & put the brand new one on my thundercloud runner. The other one is technically in better condition & since this black 4runner is going to be the rig I "don't care about" it made sense to put the used one on here.


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& in case you missed it, here is the video of the installation.


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Old 02-15-2018, 09:14 PM #26
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Im really stuck right now...

the ignition cylinder will not come out! i don't know what to do next.

I went to our local auto salvage yard and pulled apart the ignition cylinder on this "tahoe edition" 4runner @JZiggy and I found at San Jose North and just tried to understand all aspects of this component before i totally destroyed my own...

The idea is simple, turn the key to the ACC portion and press in the little button and it slides right out, There are plenty of people on YouTube that show how this process is done but with my cylinder being drilled out its getting stuck somewhere....

The component that actually holds the ignition cylinder is held in place with some type of security screw that you can't even unscrew... so im screwed!!!

Any ideas folks?



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Old 02-15-2018, 10:43 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infamousRNR View Post
Im really stuck right now...

the ignition cylinder will not come out! i don't know what to do next.

I went to our local auto salvage yard and pulled apart the ignition cylinder on this "tahoe edition" 4runner @JZiggy and I found at San Jose North and just tried to understand all aspects of this component before i totally destroyed my own...

The idea is simple, turn the key to the ACC portion and press in the little button and it slides right out, There are plenty of people on YouTube that show how this process is done but with my cylinder being drilled out its getting stuck somewhere....

The component that actually holds the ignition cylinder is held in place with some type of security screw that you can't even unscrew... so im screwed!!!

Any ideas folks?



.

Sean,

Can you get a dremel in there to cut a slice in the "anti-tamper" bolts for a flat head (last pic)? I believe the bolts originally have heads on them, then broken/cut off. I just had to cut off anti-tamper bolts off my wifes vehicle to get the ecu out (not T4R). I then replaced them with allen head metric hardware from Fastenal.

-J
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Old 02-15-2018, 11:09 PM #28
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Since your ignition cylinder is already buggered up, could you take a center punch and small hammer and "budge" the release button all of the way down? It's not like you're going to break it anymore.

I also have an idea for those security bolts- you need to drill into the blind head with a small drill bit then work up to one that is large enough to remove the rivet head. I've repaired plenty of VW's doing this- they use those security fasteners on the steering column, which is the first thing that has to be dropped when removing the dash to get at the heater core. Fawking VWs........
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Old 02-15-2018, 11:34 PM #29
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If the tumbler lock portion is fully drilled out, then nothing should stop it from turning. Be sure your steering wheel lock isn't resting on the detent and making it hard to turn as that has fooled me in the past as well. (Wiggle the steering wheel while trying to to state the ignition cylinder. Worst case: hammer the biggest chisel you can into the cylinder casing and then put a pair of vise grips on it to turn the damn thing. Once it moves to acc you're golden. Oh yeah, push in while turning too... Good luck
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Old 02-15-2018, 11:59 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndhandyotaman View Post
Since your ignition cylinder is already buggered up, could you take a center punch and small hammer and "budge" the release button all of the way down? It's not like you're going to break it anymore.

I also have an idea for those security bolts- you need to drill into the blind head with a small drill bit then work up to one that is large enough to remove the rivet head. I've repaired plenty of VW's doing this- they use those security fasteners on the steering column, which is the first thing that has to be dropped when removing the dash to get at the heater core. Fawking VWs........
the release button can be pushed in... it seems to be pushed in all the way and in theory it should just slide out after that but something is hanging it up somehow.... i'm dreading having to remove the whole assembly. but maybe dremeling or drilling out those security bolts and replacing them with a compatible thread pitch like @firemanj92 is suggestion might be the only way to get the assembly in my hand and have a better chance of removing the cylinder...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Reak Show View Post
If the tumbler lock portion is fully drilled out, then nothing should stop it from turning. Be sure your steering wheel lock isn't resting on the detent and making it hard to turn as that has fooled me in the past as well. (Wiggle the steering wheel while trying to to state the ignition cylinder. Worst case: hammer the biggest chisel you can into the cylinder casing and then put a pair of vise grips on it to turn the damn thing. Once it moves to acc you're golden. Oh yeah, push in while turning too... Good luck
the ignition cylinder is already stuck in the ACC position.... i believe that after it got drilled out the portion that you push in to release the ignition cylinder isn't getting pushed in all the way, preventing it from being removed from its home...

i got some grips on there and part of the cylinder started to brake off... thats when i stopped because i was running out of metal to grab onto....
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