[infamousRNR]

Ordered a couple blank Toyota Keys since I vacuumed up the broken end of the key I had for this truck. Oops. Part number 90999-00186

These are just the metal keys & DO NOT have the transponder chip in them so these keys will only serve as a “backup” key to lock/unlock the drivers door or rear hatch.

With the ignition cylinder having been replaced I won’t be able to use these keys to start the car, so we will see what life will be like living with 2 different keys. Honestly, I never use my key except to start the car because the FOB does most of that work for me.

Next step is to go to the dealer with my registration & Drivers license to get them to cut the blank from my VIN...


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[4Reak Show]

You could have the blanks cut to the new ignition key and then re-key your door tumblers to match. Then they're all one key anyway. Tumblers can be a bit tricky but with patience and a steady hand you can make them match without any new parts. Just takes time to pull the tumblers from the doors and lift gate

[infamousRNR]

Obligatory “removed my running boards” mod picture. +2HP..

This is in preparation for some BAMF sliders only this time I got the ones with the kickout!


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[MarkamisPrime]

A lock Smith can also reset your tumblers for $50 around here

[infamousRNR]

Originally Posted by 4Reak Show

You could have the blanks cut to the new ignition key and then re-key your door tumblers to match. Then they're all one key anyway. Tumblers can be a bit tricky but with patience and a steady hand you can make them match without any new parts. Just takes time to pull the tumblers from the doors and lift gate

I want to eventually have everything match but for now I will live with 2 keys...

I usually just use my FOB so I rarely use the key for the door locks.

Originally Posted by MarkamisPrime

A lock Smith can also reset your tumblers for $50 around here

$50?!?? That’s not bad... so now do I spend $50 on my locks? Or on beer??








....
Installed my body lift after making Easter brunch for the fam damily...

I got away with not needing to remove my front bumper! That was pretty awesome saving that time, but mods always escalate quickly & when I was putting my steering spacer in, I rotated the steering wheel & had to adjust it a couple times before I got it right.

Nothing crazy here but because I got a killer deal on that CBI rear bumper that was sent to @JerkyDrewster with a body lift option by accident , I was forced to add a 1” BL.


.

[infamousRNR]

Woke up at 2am this morning my time to catch a flight back from NOLA. That place is fricken wild!!! I highly recommend going there if you are a party animal or a foodie like me. We ate a bunch of amazing food including the famous beignets from café du monde.

I struggled a little bit with removing the stock bumper because I was doing everything with a shirt ratchet & the bolts were so dirty/muddy, they fought me the whole way out. But finally got everything off & isntalled the CBI bumper.

Before
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During
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After
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.... that rear passenger side tire though! Lol.

[sunsetrunner]

Originally Posted by infamousRNR

Woke up at 2am this morning my time to catch a flight back from NOLA. That place is fricken wild!!! I highly recommend going there if you are a party animal or a foodie like me. We ate a bunch of amazing food including the famous beignets from café du monde.

I struggled a little bit with removing the stock bumper because I was doing everything with a shirt ratchet & the bolts were so dirty/muddy, they fought me the whole way out. But finally got everything off & isntalled the CBI bumper.


.... that rear passenger side tire though! Lol.

Racing slicks!! haha

[mtbtim]

Originally Posted by sunsetrunner

Racing slicks!! haha

I know. I think Sean's priorities are a little off. Sick mods over safety. But, I don't think this rig is going to see any big road trips before he gets some new tires on it. I don't think I'd drive it in the rain though with bald tires. Serious risk of hydroplaning with tires like that.

[infamousRNR]

I Purchased another Scangauge II for my 2000, & programmed it to read automatic transmission fluid temperature..

It worked the first attempt & I’m pleased.

Originally Posted by tannerc

This was posted in a link above...

"""" cloudcap previously said:
FYI, I've had a ScanGauge II for a few months and recently puzzled out the XGauge codes for measuring automatic transmission fluid temperature. Here's the scoop:

TXD: 686AF101B4
RXF: 044105B40000
RXD: 2808
MTH: 00090005FFD8

I've verified that this works with my '02 4Runner and suspect that the codes would work with an FJCruiser as well (even though the FJ is a *much* less capable off-road vehicle....). Please let folks know if you try it and it works for you. I'm not a regular reader of this forum, but wanted to pass the info along as it seems to be of general interest.

Regards"""""

I also had the chance to get the stealership to cut a key for me from my VIN for $10 & although it works... the drivers side door lock is a problem. It fits into the lock but I’m sure the wafers are totally worn because it won’t lock & it barely turns to unlock.

The passenger side & the rear trunk/hatch locks work great...

I really needed the drivers side door to work because I need to use the key manually to program a FOB since the door actuators get tired after a couple lock/unlocks.

Does anyone know if I could just swap the passenger side lock into the drivers side? Or are they side specific?


....

[infamousRNR]

Finally got my truck smoged after having it since October...
I got a CEL literally days before my smog day. I ran the code with my scangauge & got a P1135...


.

Since I didn’t have time to get a DENSO A/F ratio sensor, I swapped the one over from my 02 & cleared the check engine light.... but the engine readiness for testing wasn’t ready so I had to drive it... I took a nice long drive down the coast to get it “ready” & took it back the next day. Luckily it past. Because my registration was incomplete without the smog cert, I had to go to the DMV today... on Friday the 13th no less!!. Got everything sorted out thanks to my awesome GF that waited for over 2 hours to sort everything out since I had to go to work. The line was wicked long. She’s the real MVP.. while She was there she picked up my new plates too!!

Stoked!

#sickLicensePlateMods

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[JoshuaDudee]

Originally Posted by infamousRNR

I Purchased another Scangauge II for my 2000, & programmed it to read automatic transmission fluid temperature..



It worked the first attempt & I’m pleased.















I also had the chance to get the stealership to cut a key for me from my VIN for $10 & although it works... the drivers side door lock is a problem. It fits into the lock but I’m sure the wafers are totally worn because it won’t lock & it barely turns to unlock.



The passenger side & the rear trunk/hatch locks work great...



I really needed the drivers side door to work because I need to use the key manually to program a FOB since the door actuators get tired after a couple lock/unlocks.



Does anyone know if I could just swap the passenger side lock into the drivers side? Or are they side specific?





....

I literally programmed my fob yesterday and my lock get tired as well after like 4cycles. I learned off a thread on here some where to use the key in the keyhole on the drivers door. It took me like 50 times to get it but I worked and I managed to get it 3 times. I rolled down the window left the door open and was leaning through the door using the key. Then would just press the door sensor making the door think it's closed and it worked! So if you have an extra key it's really simple. But I only have one so it was a little more challenging.

[infamousRNR]

Installed my AirRaid (PN: 510-934) intake tube & swapped my steering wheel.

One thing I found with this one particular Lexus airbag is the different connection to the clockspring... this was the only airbag so far that had a different connection. All other Lexus wheels I have are plug n’ play with the 4runner clockspring.


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[Scramble]

Dude! I tell everyone that you dont need to take off the front bumper to do bodylift's. One or 2 long extensions on the impact gets them right out! Saves so much time! People just go by the old write ups.

I have a problem with the complaining you did on a little dirt & mud on your rear bumper! In rust free Cali! LMAO! I little WD40 on every nut, bolt & stud an hr before you start makes it so much easier. It took me an entire Sat to do mine only snapping half the fastners. I could do it in a rust free state in about an hour. LOL

Trucks coming along nicely! How many you got now? 4" LOL I love Black, my Accord Coupe is Black but it's so hard to keep looking good.

[TonyB66]

Originally Posted by infamousRNR

Obligatory “removed my running boards” mod picture. +2HP..

This is in preparation for some BAMF sliders only this time I got the ones with the kickout!


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Catching-up on many threads from the past couple of months... Got my running boards off too, just a couple days ago. So much nice progress Sean!

Did you get your BAMF sliders yet? I had a few emails with Jerry today actually. He doesn't make 60" sliders, but 67s, as you likely know. He confirmed that will entail trimming of the Limited fender flares. I had been looking for 60" sliders (fits within the flares), but I can see a case for the longer 67-inchers...

Hope to see you in a few weeks.

[Scramble]

Originally Posted by TonyB66

Catching-up on many threads from the past couple of months... Got my running boards off too, just a couple days ago. So much nice progress Sean!

Did you get your BAMF sliders yet? I had a few emails with Jerry today actually. He doesn't make 60" sliders, but 67s, as you likely know. He confirmed that will entail trimming of the Limited fender flares. I had been looking for 60" sliders (fits within the flares), but I can see a case for the longer 67-inchers...

Hope to see you in a few weeks.

You can lower the angle so it doesn't touch the flares. All-Pro & Trail Gear make shorter sliders too.