Thanks

The rear disk setup is great so far. I still need to figure out the cable. I think I have it... just need to get some time. I want to flip the bracket that receives the ebrake cable on the mustang calipers. This should work and the stock ebrake 4runner cable might work without any modification.

If that does not work I still think modifying the bracket on the mustang calipers will be easy and work out. Just need some time.

I did fuse box work and I need to edit that video footage and get it up. Now that I have a good 40 amp lead all the way back I can start working on my red arc dc to dc charger and second battery for fridge.

Looking at efans and headers.... also rear fridge slides.

So about the fear disks... How did you come to decide to go with 4th gen rotors matched up with mustang calipers. I looked at your post, but maybe I missed something. Will that effect how ABS braking functions? Or did you get rid of all that?

rear disks of fear!!!!!

4th gen rotors worked great.
I looked @ the specs for the montero vs the 4th gen and I figured the offset for the caliper would be less. Turned out to only need 4mm of offset with the 4th gen rotors. I think the montero rotors would have been in excess of 10mm or more. I was trying to avoid the stack of washers problem.

I kept the ABS intact 100% and it seems to function fine. I went out on a frozen lake this winter and locked up all the wheels a couple of times. they "buzz n pulse" just like they did before. I was not expecting them to just work but it seemed to be really a great match with the tundra fronts.

let me go find my vids for that... was going to wait until I got the ebrake part all worked out but I can shoot a separate vid for the entire ebrake portion. don't know if it will help but maybe? I get way more out of vids, sure pics help but seeing it in technicolor is how my brain works best.

my brakes never really worked great on this truck, I did do the master before I did the rear conversion. it helped a lot and I might have been happy with the old brakes but... I already had parts for the rear so I did it. it was a lot of trouble but I think it was worth it.

2001,2002 braking system is so much better than 2000-1996 kind of wish I had a 2001 or 2002 but then would have to deal with the VSC.

Right on. I have the 2002 version, but 01,02 gets to deal with a fairy expensive component if it fails. I need, or maybe I don't, need to test out VSC and what it does, and how it does it, to better understand how it will affect me in emergency situations. I might have had it activate once but it was one of those situations where I was having to give all my attention to driving because the back end spun out for me and I was just trying to make sure things didn't go more sideways and they were.

But good work figuring out that all those pieces come together. So I take it the 4th gen rear disc brakes would not have worked. Or for that matter Tundra brakes?

no the 4th gen have different bolt pattern on the axle housing... anything is possible with enough $ and time now days. you would have to get a 4th gen axle housing and cut the ends off it and then transplant the ABS sensor in between... it could be done for sure. I never looked into Tundra brakes, however there is a company making a rear drum to disk conversion for older tundra...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnInadxPRjk

or

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO1zXrgNwr4

I can't remember but I think both of these would also need to be modified and the ABS would be toast.

The sequoia/tundra bolt pattern is different so you would have to swap out the entire rear axle assembly and that would probably be cheaper in the long run really.

I think after digging around for ages.... I decide the simpliest thing to do was create a mounting bracket, ford calipers then modify the caliper ebrake bracket and try to hook up the ebrake. so that is the path I picked.

I had a 2002 for 15 years... I hated the VSC in the snow it was terrible. I used to push the VSC off button all the time.

Well, that is a lot of creative engineering for sure. Just for kicks, you could stop by your run of the mill brake shop for a check. Don't mention anything. Someone would be back there forever trying to make heads or tails out of the Tundra brake upgrade and rear disks, especially if you swapped axles.

But I like the direction you went for sure. I have only had the VSC trac control do something really funky once. But a grey wire Andy mod might be in my future.

I started getting P03303 bank 2 sensor 2 codes. it was time to replace the wire harness and knock sensors.

after tearing it down of course I found all kinds of things that needed attention.

here is the parts list for the things I decided to tackle... I will try to fill in pictures as I get parts and re-work things. its going to take a bit.

This site has some great breakdown on parts... the hard to find part numbers can be had here.

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genu...HN87RXY0283787

ripped down and waiting for parts


INTAKE MANIFOLD

1717762060 GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD TO HEAD, NO.1

4@ 9462310800 WASHER PLATE
4@ 9017908117 NUT
4@ 9014880002 BOLT
4@ 9011908609 BOLT

Lower Plenum AKA AIR SURGE
4@ 9017908183 NUT
4@ 9014980022 BOLT
1@ 9010508020 BOLT(longer bolt)

2@ 1717662040 GASKET, AIR SURGE TANK TO INTAKE MANIFOLD

already on order(verify)
1@ 8221934020 therm sensor wire harness
2@ 8961512050 SENSOR, KNOCK CONTROL Denso

1@ 8342016020 GAGE ASSY, WATER TEMPERATURE SENDER
(Rear of manifold, single wire) part of manifold?

1@ SENSOR WIRE 82219-34020(front ECT wire harness)
1@ SENSOR, WATER TEMPERATURE 89422-35010
(For E.F.I. 2 wires front of manifold)

FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
12@ 9030107024 RING, O(FOR FUEL DELIVARY PIPE) top n bottom
6@ 2329120010 INSULATOR, INJECTOR VIBRATION (holds injector in manifold)

1@ 2380162070 PIPE SUB-ASSY, FUEL, NO.1
(high pressure supply)
1@ 9040112036 Bolt, Union(For Fuel Pipe NO.2)
1@ 9043012026 BOLT, UNION(FOR FUEL PIPE NO.2) this is really the copper crush

1@ 9030107024 RING, O(FOR FUEL DELIVARY PIPE)
(this is for the REGULATOR ASSY, FUEL PRESSURE connection)

1@ 23273-62020 Hose, Fuel(For Return Hose)
2@ 9613541100 CLAMP OR CLIP(For Return Hose)

1@ 23812-62041 PIPE, FUEL Pipe, Fuel, NO.2(For Return Hose) hard line
1@ 23273-62010 HOSE, FUEL(For Fuel Pipe To Pressure Regulator)
2@ 9046711065 Clip, Hose(For Fuel Hose)

THROTTLE BODY
1@ 22215-62180 GASKET, THROTTLE BODY COVER
2@ 9017908183 Impact Bar Nut
2@ 9011608159 BOLT, STUD
4@ 21821-25180 Screw (for throttle body cover)
2@ 9010508267 BOLT, WASHER BASED

VACUUM PIPING
1@ 1734362080 HOSE, AIR, NO.3
(rear top of manifold driver side)
1@ 1734262080 HOSE, AIR, NO.2
(rear top of manifold passenger side)
1@ 9090413015 WAY, 3(FOR AIR HOSE)
(joins HOSE, AIR, NO.3 <-> HOSE, AIR, NO.2)
1@ 1734162060 HOSE, AIR, NO.1
(joins to throttle body and one way check for super charger)

RADIATOR & WATER OUTLET
3@ 9011606127 BOLT, STUD
1@ 16341-62040 GASKET, WATER OUTLET
3@ 90179-06080 NUT

1@ 16261-62060 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS (water bypass to throttle body front)
2@ 96135-41300 Clamp Or Clip(For Water By-Pass Hose NO.3)

1@ 99556-10300 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS Hose, Heater Water, Outlet C
(water bypass to throttle body rear)
2@ 96135-41300 Clamp Or Clip(For Heater Water, Outlet C)

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - WATER PIPING
1@ 8724535700 HOSE, HEATER WATER, OUTLET E (up from water bypass pipe on manifold or HEATER WATER HOSE, NO.2)
1@ 90467-23009 CLAMP OR CLIP ( lowwer )
1@ 9613442100 CLAMP OR CLIP ( upper )

1@ 8726535340 CONNECTOR, HEATER WATER HOSE, NO.2 (3 way )

1@ 872453D090 HOSE, HEATER WATER, OUTLET C
2@ 9046714029 CLIP

1@ 8724535710 HOSE, HEATER WATER, OUTLET A
(not sure what clamp... parts diag is confusing here)
2@ 9613442100 CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER BY-PASS HOSE NO.2)
2@ 9046722004 CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER BY-PASS HOSE NO.2)
1@ 87124-35010 CLAMP, HEATER

1@ 9048001405 GROMMET (FOR HEATER PIPE)

1@ 8724535680 HOSE, HEATER WATER, INLET
1@ 9046723009 CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER BY-PASS HOSE NO.2) (lower)
1@ 9613442100 CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER BY-PASS HOSE NO.2 (upper)

1@ 8726589110 CONNECTOR, HEATER WATER HOSE (3 way)

1@ 8724535690 HOSE, HEATER WATER, INLET A
2@ 9046722004 CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER BY-PASS HOSE NO.2)
1@ 8724035070 VALVE ASSY, HEATER WATER

1@ 8724535670 HOSE, HEATER WATER ,INLET C
1@ 9613442100 CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER BY-PASS HOSE NO.2)
1@ 9046722004 CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER BY-PASS HOSE NO.2)

1@ 8724535770 HOSE, REAR HEATER WATER INLET, A(FROM ENGINE)
1@ 9046714029 CLIP

Any tips on bushing removal?

Have you guys seen this? People using a drill to pop em out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfiaWDOphgE

I have seen it and couldn't believe it... is it real?? Looks too easy

Well, I have yet to try it, but there are many videos of people pulling this trick off on youtube. No fire, or giant presses used. It seems to be one of the easier, and safer ways to remove stubborn bushings. I would say it's worth a shot.

I have a 20T press so anything I say is cheating. I just forced them out because they are just rubber. the lowers I did have to use press sleeves because there is a metal outside retainer.

I have never tried the drill thing... but long ago I did burn some out with a camp fire. it worked, blasting and painting is needed after the fire part.

Kicked off the engine replacement with bead blasting the valve covers, intake, and water inlet/outlet

WARNING DON'T EVER DO WHAT I DID, it's not worth it.

I had my intake, and valve covers bead blasted. they look awesome. I blew everything off/out with 120 PSI air and pressure washed everything to make sure all the blasting media was cleaned off. This did not work and somehow, someplace probably in the valve covers enough blasting media remained and then proceeded to sand the inside of the brand new engine. It lasted for 300 miles before I pulled it and discovered this in the oil pan.



it was a great looking engine for 300 miles.




from dull and dingy


to "oh shiny"



old iron side has been sent to the shipping department


it took me a good solid 6 hours but I got it out without ripping, crunching, smashing or killing anybody.


18 years of leaking valve cover gaskets yum!


I'm going to pickup right here because at this point I ended up swapping in a 240K 5VZ I had from a truck I parted out. This was the unlucky 2000 sport whose frame was rusted thru in a bunch of spots.




after removing all the timing gear and anything that was not internal to the re-man engine I cleaned up the part out truck engine and dropped it in. pretty boring stock setup but... I wanted to get back on solid ground before going any further.



I'm going to run 2 oil filters in this engine for a bit... maybe clean it out a little bit. It was pretty decent but I'm sure running it a little harder with the super charger is going to bust some things loose.

After a quick 20 miles road test I changed the oil.

I then drove it for another 150 miles and since the oil pressure looked really good. 10 psi at idle and 70 psi and 3000+ I was feeling a little better about things. so I put my supercharger back into it.


I drove maybe another 50 miles and then changed the filters and oil.

I now have about 1200 miles on this engine and it's running like a champ. no knock codes, no check engine lights of any kind. it pulls really well and responded to the supercharger without any trouble.

I'm only getting about 16 - 17 MPG so far so I decided to take a look at compression and what I found was not exactly what I expected.

I went out for a 30 min drive to get things up to operating temp. pulled the coils/plugs and disconnected the fuel pump.

cylinder 1 140 PSI
cylinder 2 148
cylinder 3 135
cylinder 4 132
cylinder 5 142
cylinder 6 145



yes that is pretty disappointing and this engine is for sure at the end of it's life. As long as it continues to run well for me it's staying put, bad compression or not. the interesting thing is it does not seem to burn a drop of oil, does not lose coolant and runs nice and smooth. it also has impressive power with the supercharger.



just for kicks I decided to drop 1/4 oz of oil into each cylinder and then re-run the compression test just to see what would happen. I used my auto turkey baster and this worked really well, you can feel the center of the hole and get it right into the cylinder.

with oil added
cylinder 1 210 PSI
cylinder 2 180
cylinder 3 150
cylinder 4 165
cylinder 5 150
cylinder 6 170

This was a mixed bag for sure and I did re-test cylinder 1 three times just to make sure and yes it showed 210 after adding some oil down the tube. that would probably indicate the rings/bore is in bad shape I would think.

Engine replacement? Last time I checked your thread you added the SC and were chasing some codes, now the motor is out? Concerned member here.

talk about no stone left unturned! impressive.