Super cool engineering. It's great stuff. Those brackets look great. yes pink would'ev popped!.

I found a local Midas shop 2.4 miles from my house and one of the guys was brave enough to give it a go. he did ok, it's not pretty on the inside but I was able to do a quick test drive and it does not contact the bumper but man it's tight up in there now.

yes I will have to drop the new fuel tank to remove the tailpipe but a guy has too do what a guy has too do. I would have to say this is the setup I have been dreaming about for like 20 years, so check that one off the list.

I have given up on the splash shields little black clips


I will not be held hostage to them NOMORE!

the fender aprons are perfect for M5 nut certs so I certed them


I did not have any m5 Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screws on hand but did have some m5 machine head screws. I ordered some of these and once they come I will swap out the machine screws. who am I kidding I will get the new box of screws and they will sit on my dresser for months and the next time we have visitors my wife will freak out and hide them in the name of cleaning up. Or maybe this time it will be different but probably not.

Amazon.com: M5-0.8 x 12mm Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screw Bolts, 304 Stainless Steel 18-8, Allen Socket Drive, Bright Finish, Fully Machine Threaded, Pack of 25 : Industrial & Scientific

but until then it works just fine and the splash shields on the drivers side has never been so beefy and secure.

Oh I love that idea. Can you send me a link to your certs? I’ve never actually used those before.

I think a philips head fastener is actually ideal in this scenario. Or maybe some of those philips and 8mm headed combo bolts.

sorry I used the wrong vernacular, Rivet Nuts.

this was the kit I picked up back in 2017
Amazon.com: Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 13" Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit - Metric & SAE W/ 60pc Rivnuts : Automotive

so these should be the same thing that came with the kit

Amazon.com: Astro Pneumatic Tool RN5M 100-Piece M5 5mm Steel Rivet Nuts : Automotive

as I need to remove the splash shields I will be doing it for each one, I have not tried the frame and I'm guessing those holes are different. so...

agree I have the same allen heads in M6 and they match the size of the plastic toyota clips much better. I just did not have them in M5, machine screws are way to small.

Ordered the M5 on sunday and had it today, wow amazon. I was a bit surprised how much smaller the M5 are but after installing them they are fine. that plastic splash guard is totally solid now, no more floppy.

M6 would be the best but you would have to drill out the sheet metal and then make sure you do something to protect the hole and since mine are still in good shape I don't want to drill them out and destroy the toyota zink+paint protection that still exists.

Splash guard rivets with bolts. I am not quiet sure. Looks good but I have an inclination that they might seize in there and the rivet and the bolt will spin when trying to loosen the bolt, just a thought.

it is a risk but the drivers side plastic one is so floppy, at least let me savor the victory for a time. Nothing is forever, sadly.

Ha ha, looks good. I am sure it will be fine. Your built is super impressive. I read the old posts and look at pics in your built thread quiet often.

That's funny. Cool idea with the rivet nuts. Maybe anti-seize to prevent them from getting stuck together?

Could throw some small tack welds on the rivnuts too..

For me being in the mid-west it's just under stood you use it

rust belt assembly lube

using the switch as a ground was super easy, man don't know why I did not do it this way from the start.

you only have to run 3 wires 1 red 15 amp for the compressor and solenoids, then 2 ground.

the 3d printed bezel I made worked perfect as well. I just contact cemented the switch to the outside and it sticks like glue, wait that is glue? yea yea.

link to the STL for the bezel
5552435020E0 COVER SWITCH BACE HOLE beefier v4.stl - Google Drive

I have 3d printed a couple of battery trays... I know I should make a metal one but it seems overkill to me?

with the tools now days it's not hard to scrape dimensions, I'm actually getting pretty good at it. Because I wanted to make nubs that extrude down into the holes in the battery tray area and printing stuff has rules... I decide to do a plug based approach.





and it's not the most beautiful print in the world but... it's ASA and it's pesky stuff to print.





used some acetone to glue the plugs into place, acetone could be used to smooth the print but... meh I have enough chemical in my body for one day.


it fits perfectly and the nubs engage into the slots nice and snuggles.


now I need to fire up the cnc plasma table because it has finally decided to be above freezing. next up battery hold down the way mom used to make them.

The factory one is plastic for a reason... RUST! Plastic (or stainless) would be the choices there. Higher sides and a drain that takes the chemicals that wash off the battery down below the frame would be the best. You did a great job there already though.

Battery trays are the only place you find rust on California cars.

-Charlie