RyanC's Supercharged Imperial Jade 99 Limited Build and Maintenance Thread

[Reinout]

[MENTION=175664]Ryance39[/MENTION] Nice ride!

Hope to see that driving around town some-time!

 

[Ryance39]

This time of year is "slow" for me at work but I still have to be "around" to solve customer problems. That said, I had some time this morning to use some of the lumber taking up space in my garage and put it to good use.
I spent a bit of time looking at other storage systems folks had built. I don't like ones that are too tall, or too complicated, or would be costly to make so I started doing some measuring and this is what I came up with.

basic box, one support/divider down most of the middle, and two panels that hinge up.
I know most people go for slide-out drawers, and I considered that but, I rarely pack so much that I couldn't open one side if need be, I don't camp in the truck, I'm a ground tent guy, and I didn't have any slides in my garage so I opted for a hinge and in two separate pieces.
The center support was left short for the reason of wanting to be able to store longer objects if need be but still have some separation in the box.

All in all, it took about 40 minutes to measure cut and assemble. Pretty happy with it.

 

[photoleif]

That said, I did change one of my diff lock sensor/switches, and wow does it switch from 2wd to 4wd fast now. If you are experiencing long switch times, spend the $30 and replace that switches.

that's really good to know. my truck switches kinda reluctantly. my 4R is fairly quick. thanks

 

[league4]

Now that the rock sliders are on I went out and took a few photos.
I think they fit nicely. Hoping to actually use them here in the next few weeks.

Any pics of how you had those sliders mounted? Weld on, or?

 

[Ryance39]

Any pics of how you had those sliders mounted? Weld on, or?

I don't have a photo on hand, but can take one later today or tomorrow.
They are welded on, direct to frame, the shop I had do the welding recommended another angled piece be put in place as well, so I had them do that.

I can get a pic here soon.

 

[Ryance39]

Any pics of how you had those sliders mounted? Weld on, or?

Here is your photo

 

[Ryance39]

So I ordered a trans cooler and new OEM radiator from Amazon. Radiator showed up today and the overflow nipple was broken off it. Shit!
Now I've got to send it back and wait for a new one. If this next one is broken I'm going to be pissed and going to the dealer.

 

[mesooohoppy]

what cooler you go with? i have a B&M sitting in my room, but no time currently to do it!

 

[Ryance39]

Well, today was supposed to be the day I installed a new OEM rad, thermostat, and transcooler, but all I got done was OEM rad and thermostat. The 4Runner decided it wanted to fight me during the install.

That said, I’m fairly certain the radiator was the ORIGINAL! radiator... which is scary. The radiator came out without any trouble and all hoses remained undamaged.

Getting the dynamic tensioner for the supercharger off was a pain, but the thermostat was more of a pain. One of the three bolt studs “unstudded” itself from the engine... I then realized the thermostat I purchased that was supposedly OEM, was not. It didn’t even have a jiggle valve... on the topic of jiggle valves the thermostat I removed was at 12 o’clock. After calling around and finding a true OEM thermostat I drove 25 minutes each way to get it. Once installed with the jiggle at the 6 o’clock position I had to deal with the stud that came out. I got the nut off, hit the stud and hole with a wire brush, put some loctite on it and reinstalled it. After letting that set a while I reinstalled the thermostat housing and torqued to spec.

Once that was done it was time to put the tensioner back on, doing that by yourself isn’t the simplest task but it wasn’t too bad.

At this point I was running out of time and decided to put the trans cooler off for another day. New radiator went in without a hitch, hoses hooked up, system burped with Toyota red and distilled water and everything seems to be running fine.

I took a short drive and both the water temp and trans temp seems to be between 10-20 degrees cooler. Happy with the result so far but boy did that take more time than I expected it too.

 

[league4]

I took a short drive and both the water temp and trans temp seems to be between 10-20 degrees cooler. Happy with the result so far but boy did that take more time than I expected it too.

What temp was it running at? I've used a scangauge to monitor water temps and found that pre-radiator replacement they ran in the upper 180 degree range and would cool down on long downhill grades but after a new rad/thermostat would stay consistently at 190 degrees.

 

[Ryance39]

What temp was it running at? I've used a scangauge to monitor water temps and found that pre-radiator replacement they ran in the upper 180 degree range and would cool down on long downhill grades but after a new rad/thermostat would stay consistently at 190 degrees.

I use a scangauge as well, prior to doing the radiator and thermostat replacement, I was running between 185-200, very rarely at 200 but it would get there. With the added weight and supercharger I've read that temp is common.

With the new radiator and thermostat, I sit between 170-185 or so. I am using the 170 degree thermostat like Magnuson recommends so I am assuming that plays a factor. I also made sure the jiggle value was at 6 o'clock rather than 12.

 

[GoneCountry]

Well this was enjoyable!

I am north of you by a little bit and just bought the identical 4runner and just about to start the build.
[MENTION=55971]RyanC[/MENTION] did you end up doing new seats?
I am on the fence and saw that on Davis Auto website they did an amazing Jade Sport and re did all the leather in the darker brown.

Did you replace yours and what did you use?

I replaced my seats on another 4runner with the US Auto Seats sleet on eBay. They are good and all but pretty standard.

 

[kendrick153]

Please, please, please, re-do your wiring.

Twist locks like that are for romex wiring in buildings, not moving vehicles.

At the least, use wire crimps, but soldering wires is very easy and far more secure.

But otherwise, the lights are sweet!

Not an electrician. Reason for the objection and explanation of the correct way to do it?

Appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[Endlessblockades]

This was a good read! Great write-up (so far?)! I also scored an IJM (2k LTD) a couple of months ago and am slowly getting it up to snuff. If the OP is still here, I was wondering if you did any anti-rub trimmings besides the pinch-weld pounding? I have the same minor lift going in next week. Do you feel you needed (or just kept) the spacers with the bigger tires on the stock rims? Finally, I'm guessing you're using the stock upper control arms? The front wheels look good from the side - not really 'shoved-back' like they can with some combos.

 

[rideexileex]

Not an electrician. Reason for the objection and explanation of the correct way to do it?

Appreciate it. Thanks.

Twist locks simply hold twisted wires together, which are meant to be stationary (buildings - not moving). Soldering bonds the wires together, or at least wire crimping puts a mechanical grip on wires, holding them together for application in a moving / vibrating vehicle.

 

[Ryance39]

Well this was enjoyable!

I am north of you by a little bit and just bought the identical 4runner and just about to start the build.

[MENTION=55971]RyanC[/MENTION] did you end up doing new seats?
I am on the fence and saw that on Davis Auto website they did an amazing Jade Sport and re did all the leather in the darker brown.

Did you replace yours and what did you use?

I replaced my seats on another 4runner with the US Auto Seats sleet on eBay. They are good and all but pretty standard.

Sorry for the delay here. No, I didn't end up doing new seats. I figure as little as I drive it, it was find the way it is for now. I've seen the darker brown seats. They look fantastic. If I was to go that route I'd probably want to dye the rest of the tan interior too.

 

[Ryance39]

Not an electrician. Reason for the objection and explanation of the correct way to do it?

Appreciate it. Thanks.

I can jump in. Using the twists is the wrong way to do it because the application those are for is for much more stout wire, like you find in your home. They also do not hold up well to constant vibration.

That said, I did it because it's what I had on hand. I've since gone back and fixed it with proper heat shrink.

Does it work the way I did it, yes, is it the right way, no. The choice is yours.

 

[Ryance39]

This was a good read! Great write-up (so far?)! I also scored an IJM (2k LTD) a couple of months ago and am slowly getting it up to snuff. If the OP is still here, I was wondering if you did any anti-rub trimmings besides the pinch-weld pounding? I have the same minor lift going in next week. Do you feel you needed (or just kept) the spacers with the bigger tires on the stock rims? Finally, I'm guessing you're using the stock upper control arms? The front wheels look good from the side - not really 'shoved-back' like they can with some combos.

Still here, just been busy.
Congrats on the new ride. IJM is the best color for third gens, not that I'm biased at all.

I did do some trimming upfront. The limited flares catch on the 33's upfront on the inside/backside of the flare. I cut those out and did a bit of an angular cut towards the outside if that makes sense. I can take a photo if need be.

If you run 285's on stock wheels you need spacers in the front to pull them away from the UCAs. The look is cool too IMO.

I am still using the stock UCAs. I'm about at the maxed limit of lift height on them I'd think though. At some point, I'll be getting new UCAs. We'll see this build goes! For now, I'm just driving it and enjoying it.

Need Covid to let up so we can all get out there.

 

[Ryance39]

Pretty big, exciting update - I decided it was time to buy a 5th gen.
... I know, hear me out though.

I've been look at these for some time and the timing makes sense, sorta. Our daughter is now 9 months old, my wife and I don't love her riding around in the 3rd gen, and my wife drives our X3, which while it's a blast and we're keeping it, it is not very big on the inside. The stroller we have takes up almost the entire trunk area, and it makes family vacations a pain to deal with trying to cram stuff in. It was just time to get something a bit more modern and large.
So, here it is - 2020 OFf Road Premium, super white, moonroof, no KDSS, and a killer "Covid deal"... we pick it up Friday and are pretty excited.

I think 5 cars officially makes a fleet though...:lmao:

No plans to sell the 3rd gen as of now, but for the right price I'd definitely consider it.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Still here, just been busy.
Congrats on the new ride. IJM is the best color for third gens, not that I'm biased at all.

I did do some trimming upfront. The limited flares catch on the 33's upfront on the inside/backside of the flare. I cut those out and did a bit of an angular cut towards the outside if that makes sense. I can take a photo if need be.

If you run 285's on stock wheels you need spacers in the front to pull them away from the UCAs. The look is cool too IMO.

I am still using the stock UCAs. I'm about at the maxed limit of lift height on them I'd think though. At some point, I'll be getting new UCAs. We'll see this build goes! For now, I'm just driving it and enjoying it.

Need Covid to let up so we can all get out there.

Thanks for the info and congrats on the new 5th Gen and the kiddo! I'm 15 and 18 years into my 2 kiddos, so I know what you're dealing with. Never want to see a diaper again.
But I digress....If it wouldn't be too much trouble, and only if you get a chance, I'd love to see a shot of your flare-trimming. Down here in CA the tire shops with the best deals also seem to be the ones that balk at sending a car off the lot with any rubbing whatsoever. What size spacers do you recommend/use?