So I picked up a 12vguy harness for my newly installed 4.10 locker and low and behold the stock motor keeps binding up when it hits its max travel. The bushing at the end of the helical screw is worn causing the whole shaft to lock up on the threads of the ring gear in the elocker housing.

So then I ordered a brand new AISIN actuator off Rockauto and bench tested on the ground with my 12vguy harness and it worked no issues, end to end. I could hear the power cutting out from the limit switches and it ran extremely smoothly.

But the second I installed it to the diff and bolted it up. I swore I heard it move in one direction (did not get lock confirmation) and then it never moved again. Driving around in S patterns did not engage it and when I parked, rocking the switch did nothing.

I removed it from the housing to see if it would work without being installed and it just stopped working altogether. I even jumped 12v power to it and it unfroze and worked end to end but when it got to one end it froze again. Love taps with a hammer did nothing to unfreeze it.

This is now the 3rd motor for me, the second of which I got used and suffers the same fate. I chalked it up to being a dud but theres NO way this 3rd brand new motor has the same issues.

Anyone have any tips?

I've had a few issues issues with my actuator, but never had to replace it completely. I would check the contacts for the limit switches are clean and not heavily greased. Also, that the spring contacts have a reasonable amount of tension on them to make contact. Being the unit is new, they shouldn't be pitted or corroded but something to look for down the line. With new wiring, that should be fine. I had a break in the +12V line between the connector on the actuator and the one near the fuel tank. Moving the wire harness around would give intermittent "jogs" to the motor unless you found the sweet spot. With the actuator unbolted but hanging it still does nothing? Most common issue for me is the shift lock shaft binding and not being able to overcome the friction to slide the shift fork in the diff. Motor turns fine and winds up the spring, but even if the diff is lined up to lock the shaft is bound up.


Also, the status light on the dash does nothing for the working of the circuit. You can leave it unplugged and the locker will still function properly (had that wiring rip itself out of the switch on the diff too).

Try this
A possible solutioin to Elocker motor fix.

Might help.

I also have the 12voltguy harness. And it's my second one. The first one, before installing it the wires pulled out of the connector. I'm sorry if you think otherwise. But I think his harness isn't all that hyped up. It's nice yes. But the wires ARE THIN. And it doesn't really crimp tight at all on the connectors. I had to send the harness to get it fixed. After about 3 months. I had a issue where it would lock and sometimes not lock. Turns out, another connector had a lose wire. Again, to thin of a wire and it cannot be tightly crimped. At this point. I demand a spare harness. And cut both connections of and crimped my OEM elocker connectors with but connectors. Haven't had a issue since.

The OEM elocker harness wires are a lot thicker then his wires. For anyone else that will come across this. Check out LowRangeOffRoad elocker harness. That might be a better one. But this is my personal opinion from experience.