Can you see it moving? Its possible stiffer rubber will help with exhaust vibration. I have also seen the muffler insides come loose and rattle like crazy too.

Is the engine itself running nice and smooth?

It's worth a shot, replacing the one closest to the cat fixed my vibration. The hanger itself has started to crack/split at the weld so the exhaust would buzz unless a tiny bit of pressure was put on it in either direction, all I did is went to autozone and got a new hanger isolator for a few bucks which held the exhaust a little more firmly and it immediately got quiet. $10 pretty well spent in my book

Yes. The end of the tailpipe vibrates the most, moving back towards the engine- the muffler i can see vibrating, the two catalytic converters I have vibrate a decent amount. I have a total of 4 insulators- 1 near the end of the tailpipe, 2 on the muffler, and one on the 2nd catalytic converter. The 1st catalytic converter does not have one.

All the welds look intact and also the rubber is not cracked or look to be in bad shape.

Im currently running very smooth on my engine being 22 years old with about 298k miles. No major problems other than its a very slow pick up speed- but it's a V4. Idle around 800-825 RPM in Park, and 7-725 in gear. I do notice more vibrations inside the car when the AC is on.

Rpm's bounce/surge with AC on like others have mentioned being common in other threads I've read. When I first bought it 2 years ago with 269k miles I was running around 1700 rpms with idle surging. I have got that way under control awhile back, but have been chasing vibration for a while.


One thing has me thinking maybe it's U-joints on the drive shaft needing greased. My carfax shows the driveshaft U-joints were replaced about 140,000 miles ago- and they don't have any zerk fittings on them... Also getting a loud pop/clunk when going from reverse to drive or drive to reverse- Usually once warmed up.

Seems worth a shot but let me know if you think it could be driveshaft vibration. Thanks for any input/help.

I would start with verifying your ujoints and you probably can put greasible ones in if you wish..

The insulators do flex more when they are warn.

Do you have the hanger that belongs at the last cat?

Lots of times, they are not replaced when aftermarket exhausts go on.

All mine were missing them Abdi been putting them back on while I am fixing them.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

I would start with verifying your ujoints and you probably can put greasible ones in if you wish..

The insulators do flex more when they are warn.

Do you have the hanger that belongs at the last cat?

Lots of times, they are not replaced when aftermarket exhausts go on.

All mine were missing them and been putting them back on while I am fixing them.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

I would start with verifying your ujoints and you probably can put greasible ones in if you wish..

The insulators do flex more when they are warn.

Do you have the hanger that belongs at the last cat?

Lots of times, they are not replaced when aftermarket exhausts go on.

All mine were missing them and been putting them back on while I am fixing them.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

I mean honestly for the price it's worth a shot on the insulators. I have a hanger on the last(2nd cat) that is towards the rear. My first cat has no hangers on it at all. So maybe I should have one on that Cat?

So you had to weld new hangers to the vehicle and cat/muffler/exhaust?

I'm thinking servicing the U-joints could help out quite a bit, even with vibration. I currently don't have zerk fittings so definitely will be making sure the new ones do.

Bump.

Nope. I just put an oem hanger back in on the last cat flange. I use just the OEM hangers for my exhaust.

If i remember I take a photo of one that is mostly missing. :-)

I hate to be that guy, but if your talking about the 3rz or one of the diesels, they are all inline 4 cylinders (I4). Apart from a few cars from the 60's and 70's and some sport bikes, you wont find V4 under the hood.

I could be wrong about this, but the 2wd had a different driveshaft. So maybe they didn't put zerks on it.

Check the bushings too.

Nope, you're not wrong. My 2WD drive shaft was not greaseable and siezed on me leaving me stranded/undrivable on New Year's Day 2017. I had to wait till businesses reopened to have the driveshaft repaired in Reno, NV. They added zerks and it's now able to be greased.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I thought you could put the greasible zerks u joints in the 2wd rigs. Thanks for confirming this octanejunkie.. :-)

bringing this thread back...

just bought a new walker muffler from rockauto. it does not have part 1758154060 in the diagram above. old damper was welded to the pipe.

have you guys been going without this with aftermarket mufflers?

Yes been going without the dampener. Aftermarkets mostly don't use the last cat bracket either... I do use those though..If you want to attach the dampener to an Aftermarket mufflers I don't see what that would hurt.. :-)