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Old 05-23-2018, 06:24 PM #16
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It's been almost a month since the truck forced me to spend money on it...

Today's job- I was tired of saggy butt syndrome ( SBS) and as much as I want to go to OME 906's, it's just not in my immediate future so I decided that $40 spent at Rock Auto for the Moog 81041 springs couldn't make things any worse so I ordered them and they showed up yesterday. ( FWIW, local parts stores wanted between $65-$90 for the exact same part and no one stocked them )

I also got some Beck Arnley rear sway bar links, the ones on there were toast. 5 years ago.

I also got some new rear brake shoes because I thought I saw a crack in one of the shoes a few days ago, I was wrong when I looked really close to day so at least I can return the parts and get a few bucks back.

Lastly, I got a new(er) tire from the pick and pull yesterday and a 16" Taco steelie a few weeks ago. My spare tire was original, no way I was going to take a chance on a 18 year old tire to use as a spare. The original spare wheel was so corroded I would have been concerned trying to use it as a base for a bottle jack, much less using it as a spare wheel.

This update it mostly werds, I'm not great at stopping in the middle of a job to clean up, grab the phone and take pics.

Here's a few that I took after the werk was finished.

New shiny coil spring. I used a small bottle jack between the axle tube and the bump stop ( against a piece of wood) to get the axle to drop down enough to change the spring. Kind of a PIA to get the upper seat to fit properly while you wrestle with releasing the bottle jack. I think I got them right, it isn't making any weird sounds when I hit bumps.



Beck Arnley rear sway links. Not too impressed with the quality. The cup washers for the isolators and the isolators themselves are just a basic universal type, no way to keep the shaft or isolators centered in the large hole that they mount through. I ended up using the stock middle washer to help keep things centered.

Really bad pic, I was too lazy to try to squeeze myself close to the tire to get a better view.


I didn't take any before/after measurements, it was sagging badly and now it's not. LOL There's probably a slight bit of rake now, it doesn't look like the cargo area is full of dead hookers any more.



Same type of bad pic for the "new" spare. I was too busy with the tire machine, my buddy owns a body shop and was letting me make my mess in the parking lot and use his tire equipment. There was actually a job about to start that needed to the equipment, so I hustled and just got it done.

Not too bad for $35 all-in for a good spare.

Ironically, the original 245-75-16 was just about as tall as the 265-75-16 that I'm running now. The spare is 265-70-16 and is a tiny bit shorter. it will work good enough in a pinch.

Overall thoughts of the job- the 'runner rides a LOT better now. The Moog springs seem to work well with the KYB Monomax shocks. It's firm, but not what I'd consider brutal. I wouldn't want to drive across 50 miles of cobblestone roads w/ this setup but for the 45 miles I drove on the way home on the highway and secondary streets, it feels good. New sway links can't be hurting either, the old ones were so sloppy they couldn't have been doing much good back there.

Last edited by 2ndhandyotaman; 05-24-2018 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 12-03-2018, 10:44 PM #17
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Another bit of time has passed and I was forced to fix a broken seat height adjuster motor. I was moving the seat forward when I heard a bad "crunch" sound- apparently the Garmin GPS that I keep under the seat must have moved around a bit and when I adjusted the seat, it got wedged against the motor and broke off at the mounting boss.

I pulled the seat and had a look. I could have gone to a pick and pull and gotten another motor but I honestly didn't feel like it doing that yesterday, so I hacked together a "fix" that should outlive the rest of the truck.

After the pic was taken, I used a hose clamp to secure the motor to the new support arm. The arm will keep the motor from moving sideways when it gets used, this will be plenty good enough to keep things in the location that they need to be in.

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Old 03-16-2019, 08:44 PM #18
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I hit the local REI garage sale this morning and saw the same Tepui RTT that I was drooling over at the November garage sale. It was marked down a bit more so I decided to get it. I know that I'll need a Yakima roof rack for more strength if I decide to keep this. The amount of flex in the stock cross bars and roof sheet metal has me honestly concerned that the roof could get seriously damaged if I climbed up in there.

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Old 05-24-2019, 11:54 PM #19
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Over the past few weeks I've been hearing a faint " squeak squeak squeak" noise that keeps time with increased tire speed. I can really notice it when driving next to a brick wall, that's when it sounds pretty bad.

When a local shop was replacing the Right inner tie rod in December after someone lightly hit the truck after running a stop sign, they found that the caliper was sticking. I replaced it with a NAPA re-manned one. When I started noticing the squeaking noise recnetly, I thought that maybe the caliper was going bad, so I pulled the RF wheel and rotated the brake rotor. I was hitting a binding spot, so I pried back the pads to see if they were dragging. The noise and binding spot were still there. With my ear very close to the outer CV joint, I could hear that the wheel bearing seemed to be on it's last leg. The Outback that I recently purchased was back at the dealership getting some warranty repairs done, so I couldn't afford to have any down time with the 4runner right now.

I made a trip to a local-ish pick and pull and found a 4runner just waiting to donate its steering knuckle/drive hub to me, if nothing else to just buy a bit of time until I can get all the Toyota bearing and seals to repair it with the good parts.

I got the cheapest ball joint that Napa sells, ($14 on sale this weekend) and rented the ball joint installation kit from them. ( full refund when the kit is returned)

I now understand why everyone complains about the generic ball joint tool kits, it left a bit to be desired although I would not have been able to install the new joint without it. It just took some "creative" stacking of spacers and a big socket to push on the back side of the BJ. I got the new BJ installed, repaired the broken/seized M6 bolt that holds the ABS cable guide and called it a day. The storage unit where I do my work was getting the asphalt resealed today, so I couldn't install it. I'll go back tomorrow and get it installed and click a few pics along the way.

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Old 07-05-2019, 08:42 PM #20
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4 day holiday weekend, so what better way to spend time in the sun then to pull and clean some 20 year old carpet? LOL

I was surprised at how quickly the interior comes out, I was at about 1 hr. to get everything out to the point where I could pull the nasty old carpet.

I got some generic Mequires carpet cleaner form the local commercial auto parts ( Auto plus, formally known as Kunkles automotive)

After dumping about $15 in quarters at the coin operated car wash, I got to the point of where it wasn't getting any cleaner. It's permanently stained and some discoloring, but at least it's clean and shouldn't stink like cigars and 20 years worth of daily grime. I'm not spending the money on new carpet, so this is gonna have to be good enough. I'll reinstall it tomorrow and click a few more pics.







It's kind weird driving around with no interior and only 1 seat in the whole rig!

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Old 07-06-2019, 04:57 PM #21
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Finished it up today. I tried to buy some new felt underlayment, the carpet store wouldn't sell me the small quantity that I needed but they would give me some synthetic padding, so I went that route. The old jute was moldy and nasty and was literally falling apart in my hands. I was able to use the big chunks of the old padding as a template for the new pieces. I didn't have any upholstery spray glue on hand ( I thought that I did) so I just layed it all on the floor.




Laid the carpet on top of the new padding and started to fit the molded shapes in the carpet to the floor.



I got the trim and seats back in.



All in all, not the hardest job to do, just some physical work. The heat and humidity was tough on me. The overall result is ok for me, it's far from perfect but neither is my T4R. It's a 250% improvement visually and it doesn't stink any more.
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Old 07-06-2019, 09:31 PM #22
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Ah, you're being modest. I think you did a bang-up job! After some rest, what's up next?
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Old 07-06-2019, 11:33 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66 View Post
Ah, you're being modest. I think you did a bang-up job! After some rest, what's up next?
Thanks! I need to replace the craptastic Napa UBJ with the Toyota pieces that I just got. Maybe tomorrow, maybe next weekend.
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Old 07-07-2019, 09:30 AM #24
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Nice 4Runner! I think you got it for a very reasonable price and I love what you are doing with it. Great work! Oh, your dog is cute too.
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Old 07-20-2019, 07:00 PM #25
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This is what I got with the cheap-o Napa ball joint, plus the fact that the taper on the shank wasn't a perfect match to the taper in the control arm. It literally took a few taps with a hammer and the BJ just fell out.



This is much better ! What a great kit from Toyota, 2 kinds of grease with very clean instructions on where the grease goes. It wasn't clear ( to me) if the upper lip on the boot was supposed to sit on top of that flange or if it needed to be stretched over the flange so that the metal surface contacted the control arm. It seems like it works with the s upper lip just sitting on the top of the flange.

I looked at Tims UBJ video and it looked like that's the way he installed his as well.



This threw me off- the castle nut goes down too deep for the cotter pin to be effective. Anyone else run into this when using a OEM UBJ? I can get a taller castle nut but that would seem to be a band-aid for the issue.
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Old 07-28-2019, 08:40 PM #26
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Another weekend of the summer goes by and another maintenance job gets checked off of the list!

Last Sunday was the passenger side UBJ, this Saturday was the drivers side UBJ. I got better with doing this job, it only took 1.5 hrs start to finish this time using the same hand tools/battery powered impact and the generic ball joint press tool from Napa.


The storage unit area just got the asphalt resealed recently, so I'm trying to avoid damaging the surface so I used some 3/4" plywood under the jack stands. There's a 'no vehicle repairs' policy there, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.



Same routine as last time- remove the entire steering arm, this time I placed it horizontally in the vise, it made it easier to operate the press.
I used a piece of 1/8" flat stock to help everything press in evenly. It looks ghetto but works perfectly!




Old OEM joint- 20 years old, 215K on it. It was worn/loose but mainly full of contaminates.



The cotter pin hole lined up perfectly with the castle nut on this side. I'm now wondering if maybe the passenger side upper control arm was replaced with an aftermarket part sometime during it's life.

That's it for suspension and steering - the lowers were done 2 years ago when I got the truck, inner/outer TRE's were done last winter and now the UBJ's are done. BJ's are all OEM parts, the inner/outer TRE are aftermarket.

Next up is a trans fluid replacement and then the T-belt job. I want to get this done before the end of summer, I'd like to take 2 weeks and drive to CO in early Sept.
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Old 08-09-2019, 11:57 PM #27
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One more item checked off of the maintenance list. This time I got the trans filter and the fluid exchanged. I found an semi-abandoned parking lot that was just outside of the storage unit so that I could walk back and grab a tool if I needed to, it turned out to be a wise decision.

The old fluid wasn't burnt, just dark and dirty. It was time for it to be changed. I'm not going to cut open the filter screen, I'm just happy that there's a new one in the trans.

At some point this tranny was serviced and during that time, some bone head stripped the drain bolt and "fixed" it with what looked like epoxy. I can honestly say that it wasn't leaking, but it sure made my job a lot harder that it had to be.





I walked to a parts store, they didn't have any self tapping repair bolts ( which are horrible but I was desperate ) but they did have a generic M12-1.25 bolt so I grabbed it and walked the pan back to the storage unit where I had all of my tools. When I grabbed the right drill bit and M12 tap, I didn't think that there was enough wall thickness to be able to drill and tap up to the next size.

I found a M10-1.25 flange head bolt in my hoard pile, so I ran a tap down and found enough threads to tap. I cut the bolt down and test fit it, it tightened up properly so I just said " good 'nuf " for now. I used some oil resistant RTV on the threads and under the flange and tightened it together.




After cleaning the rails with a wire wheel on a drill, I cleaned everything then walked back to the truck, opened up the FPIG ( which looks identical to regular red RTV ) and got it back on. Everything went smoothly.

Last night I made a calibrated 1 gallon jug so that I could know how much came out so that I could put the same amount back in. I literally used a measuring cup with water to mark off where each quart leveled off in the jug.



I ended up using 13 qts of T-IV. Honestly the fluid going into the jug looked good only after 8 qts, I just wanted to be sure. So at least now I know what type of fluid is in there and when it was done.

next job up is the t-belt service. I ordered the Aircabinman kit from fleabay, maybe mid week next week I'll be able to start it.
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Old 08-10-2019, 12:51 AM #28
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Nice job on tapping that drain hole. Those are the kinds of things that we simply cannot determine at the time of purchase...

Thoughtful of you to use that plywood under those jack stands to keep the asphalt nice. That said, I'd say smart on your part also. On an especially hot summer day I had one jack stand sink into the asphalt so much that it began to severely tip. This was years ago, but I'll never forget as I had fallen asleep under the vehicle! It was so dang hot, and I was in the shade down there with a nice breeze under the car, and I dozed-off. When I woke, the underside of the car had lowered so much that I could not turn my head to get my cheek off the ground! Took a moment for me to realize where I was and slide out. Unforgettable experience...

The restoration and maintenance of your 3rd gen is going well! A good weekend to you...
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Old 08-11-2019, 10:44 PM #29
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Good Deal imo
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Old Yesterday, 08:39 PM #30
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More work started today, as my company has a "special" summer holiday which was today. Wrenches were turned, a mess was made, some curse words were spoken- pretty much a normal wrench session!

T-belt time !



I found a broken tensioner adjustment bolt, this one is for the A/C compressor. New parts were ordered.



I stated this just in time.



This job has been done once before, there's a leaky GMB water pump and no-name t-belt in there right now. No name t-stat with the jiggle valve pointed down! The pulleys have so much slop and wear on them, I'd guess that they were never changed. The hydro tensioner is a miserable little contraption to get at. I gave up today and will have another go at it. I can't seem to get a 3/8 drive socket on the bolt from the bottom. I got a 1/4 drive socket on it but couldn't break the bolt free. I might be stuck taking off the A/C compressor to gain access.

More pics tomorrow.
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