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Old 03-01-2018, 04:00 PM #1
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Rusty Frame from IL now in the desert. Still spray the frame? New Frame?

Picked up a 2002 SR5 Sport without knowing about rust issues. My fault. Anyway, I've got some rust on the passenger side frame and my neighbor (high dollar muscle car restorer) says he can weld some plates to repair/reinforce it and that it should be fine. The drivers side seems to be OK and we banged all underneath with a hammer listening for thuds. Before he starts on the welding I'd like him to get it up on his life so we can really inspect everything.

Question: Now that the car is in arid NM, and if it does snow they don't use salt, should I still spray some sort of rust inhibitor on the frame? I've power washed it in the driveway to clean old dirt off and to get a better look at any hidden rust.

Lastly, there's a 99 frame around here for $600. Is that a fair price? And is it an exact fit, with no modifications needed, etc? If we discover more rust, would that be the way to go, or just more welding to reinforce?

Newb here so patience is appreciated. Much thanks.
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Old 03-01-2018, 06:16 PM #2
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An '01/'02 frame would be an exact match. The '99/'00 frame might be missing a few mounts for the evap system that moved under the truck out of the engine bay for '01/'02. The '96-'98 frames have different mount points in the front since they don't have the crash/impact bar in the front. There are minor body mount changes through the years, but that part shouldn't be too much of a problem to solve.

Also, make sure you get a frame from the matching drivetrain. V6/4-cyl/auto/manual/2WD/4WD - each one moves the transmission crossmember a bit.

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Old 03-01-2018, 06:59 PM #3
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Thanks. Considering my lack of fab skills I think I’ll pass on the 99 frame. What are your thoughts on the rust and the dry desert?
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Old 03-01-2018, 07:04 PM #4
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Frame swaps get very involved. Plan on all new hard lines, suspension bolts, mounts, literally everything. Majority of it will not just come apart. Plate it in, wire wheel everything, prime, and paint. Make sure you check all fuel and brake lines. Very likely they're not in good shape and not safe.
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Old 03-01-2018, 07:17 PM #5
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Post some pictures of the frame...
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Old 03-01-2018, 08:41 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper View Post
Post some pictures of the frame...
I’ll post some pics as soon as I figure out how, posting pics on forums has always been a challenge for me. I dropped the spare tire and banged around there with a hammer. I think the worst is on the passenger side frame rail. I’d love someone to chime in as to whether I need to spray the existing rust with anything now that the truck lives in the desert. I’ll pressure wash the complete underside tomorrow as there’s a bunch of dirt under there, and then I think I will attack it with my grinder and some abrasive pads.
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Old 03-01-2018, 08:44 PM #7
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At the very least, wait until you have any repairs done... no need to have excess hydrocarbons around while you are trying to weld on the frame.

The big issue is if salt got INSIDE the frame and it rusts from the inside out.

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Old 03-01-2018, 08:58 PM #8
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Once the rust has started, its going to keep growing regardless of where you live. It feeds on oxygen and creates iron oxide, the red rust that you can see. A wire wheel to knock off the big stuff then an oxide ( rust) converter followed by a top coat would be ideal but even a heavy coat of the rust converter paint would be a good start.
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Old 03-01-2018, 09:06 PM #9
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Well I am dealing with my rust and removing / painting as I go so I am not treating with any oil etc because this would be a pain to remove for painting. It is sitting in the garage dry and the rust basically stops. Even driving in the clean rain doesn't do much to it, it's the salt that destroys it. That being said if you get any salt on it, even in the desert it will absorb moisture from the air and continue rusting even if you think it's dry. It has to be 100% free of salt to stop rusting.
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Old 03-02-2018, 04:40 AM #10
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I did the opposite. I put an '02 auto frame into a '99 5-speed. No issues on transmission mounts. I don't know about the charcoal canister. You do want to match engine and 2WD/4WD, but trans is not an issue.

This is not a job for the faint of heart. It took a LONG time, including wire wheeling and POR15ing the new frame, and the old gas tank, skids, diffs, D/S's, and everything else.

See the link in my sig for details.
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