I doubt anybody is just sitting around perusing on a Sunday afternoon, but just in case...
I can’t get the cv axle back in. All tutorials & research says to hammer pry bar on the lip of the inner cv joint, just like I did to remove the old one. BUT all that does is hammer the ring that provides the lip off the axle. I can’t find any specific suggestions that provides an alternative technique & there isn’t anything else to hammer except the out end of the whole axle. Which I tried (with nut on) but all it does is bounce & im afraid if I put any ass behind the hammer it’s gonna fk up the axle. Anybody there w suggestions? Trying to get the thing done so I can go to work tomorrow.
Yeah and you're not going to mess anything up by using a dead blow. Make sure the clip on the axle end has some diff oil on it to help with insertion: lube is good. You have to keep pushing Inward to keep tension on the clip while you hit it with a dead blow
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2021 Nightshade (wifey’s). 1998 Limited-locked, lifted, armored, sold. 2015 SR5, stock and sold. 2002 Sport edition, sold.
Hammering on the lip of the inner joint with a long pry bar is the way to do it. Have the cv shaft parallel to the ground when you're trying to knock it in. Either have somebody hold it for you or tie it up parallel with some wire or string. With it parallel, it will knock in easier. I've removed and replaced CVs many times and this technique has worked every time. If it's not knocking in, rotate the shaft and try again. It will eventually fall into place.
Check out this video if you need more help:
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I hear y’all. That works for everybody I saw in tutorials, but the ring w the lip just kept coming off before it went in on mine. Had it tied up parallel, lock ring facing up, lubed, etc. Maybe it was the brand of axle I’m working with? Regardless, in case anybody else runs into this problem, I got it seated by tying it up parallel, holding it in as hard as I could so it wouldn’t bounce back and giving it a few hard blows on the very end w the nut on it to protect the threads to eventually get it seated. Thanks a lot for the responses!
I know you already got it back in, but a small tip for the next time (or for anyone else having troubles). If you turn the opening of the snap ring to face up, it tends to help it seat with less effort.
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2001 4Runner 4WD Sport Package, Millennium silver, 110,000 miles, 2nd gen TRD Supercharger, Toytec BOSS coilovers, 890 OME rear springs, Bilstein 5125 rear shocks, custom Baldlands front bumper, PIAA 520 driving lights and fogs, 4x Innovation Sliders (welded on!), 18" Magnaflow muffler, JDM corners, 65" Thule bars, 20% tint, 16x8 FJ80 wheels on 265/75-16 Duratracs, Husky mats w/ cargo, rear diff breather mod, 3M clear bra, remote start, Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX
Goes without saying, but also be sure that the splines are aligned up between the input stub on the axle and the corresponding gear inside of the diff. I had mine actually rotate a bit on me while trying to seat it and after fighting it a bit, I knew something wasn't kosher. I pulled the shaft and saw where I nicked the corner of a few splines. A few minutes with a sharp file and all was right with the universe after I made sure that the splines were aligned.
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