Today I started the process of dialing in a suspension that I’m satisfied with. So the 861’s were removed and I followed @AssBurns lead and installed front coils from a Jeep JL. Now let me go ahead and say that these will not be staying. Am starting with these to see where I want to be, and these are cheap enough to try.

On the the pictures:
BEFORE w/ 861


Hub to fender measurements: (2gal in tank)
LF - 23” RF - 22 5/8”
LR - 25 3/8” RR - 24 1/4”
Way out of whack and I’m not sure why. I got really technical on measuring this. Overal diameter of tire cut in half and then subtracted from floor to fender measurement. Either way I had to much lift in the rear even with the swingout and half empty drawer system.

LJ next to 861


Driver LJ free height


Driver 861 free height


Free height is similar, actually 15-20mm difference with my measurement.
First problem though, the upper coil isolator does not fit the LJ spring. There is about 1/4” gap between coil and the isolator seat. I stuck them in anyways.
Second problem, spring rate from my research is only about 123/128. So they don’t hold weight at all.


After w/ LJ coils, swingout removed and drawer system removed


The toytec coilovers are adjust to 3/16” thread on driver side and 0 thread on passenger. Tomorrow I’ll adjust them up a small amount to level it out more.
I’ll get fender to hub measurements in a couple days once I’m back to 2 gals of fuel and things settle again.



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Watching closely. Going to start a thread about this later today...

I have pm'd CrikeyMike about it as well. I have been doing a bunch of calculations on it today.

I adjusted the front coilovers up to level it out more, and took measurements of ride height.



LF - 22.3125

RF - 22.3125

LR - 21.9375

RR - 22.5625



Right away I notice the JL coils do not provide any extra support for the gas tank weight. Other than that, I think these provide an very reasonable amount of lift for those that just want a taller stance for a daily driver. OME trim packers will not fit these coils so adding a couple to the driver side isn't an option. I am unaware of a spacer that would work in this situation. Keep in mind I am using the upper isolators that the coils to not fit all the way with. There is not as large of a gap between coil and isolator as pictured below, once installed and weight is on them.



Going for an alignment tomorrow.





Stay tuned for updates and a new thread provided by @rickashay as we continue our quest for the perfect rear spring.

Yeah the JL coils definitely don't hold weight well. If you keep a consistent weight, and like the height they provide with that weight then they will be great. I liked them for the year I had them, but once I added the spare tire, and moved the battery the ride height was just a little too low for me. I went back to the 8 wraps, and I am overall happy with the 2" or so of lift I have with the truck loaded and tank full.

I'm going to try some 8 wraps and also some 4th gen LT coils to see which I like.

Very nice look I agree- I went with 255/75/17 (General APT A/T) and I'm really happy with the look and fit too...honestly I think I would have had rubbing issues with larger tires ( any wider or any taller) with my SPC upper control arms in the front without switching to a wheel with a different offset.... Big fan of the blurple also!

This weekend I finally took care of my cracked cylinder head issue. Cylinder 3 as normal cracked between the intake and exhaust valves. I also found half of the porcelain missing on that spark plug. Along with that the front part of the intake manifold on the driver side was leaking externally at the coolant crossover ports. Needless to say, Bella was in need of some major TLC.

So I had some spare heads cleaned, pressure checked to 80psi (standard test is 50) at the combustion chambers, and then milled. After that one of the techs at work installed new valve stem seals, lapped in the valves, and checked valve lash.
I used a OEM head gasket set, ordered a timing belt and water pump kit from aircabinman on eBay (OEM timing belt, water pump, tensioner, idler, tensioner roller, and thermostat), a/m radiator and head bolts, OEM radiator hoses and a few misc items from work. I also sent some spare injectors out to Motorwest Performance for a rebuild.

What was replaced:
OEM - Head gaskets, valve stem seals, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, plenum gaskets, timing belt, water pump, tensioner, tensioner roller, ider, thermostat, upper & lower radiator hoses, front crank seal, crankshaft bolt, camshaft seals, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, spark plugs, oil filter, coolant, coolant reservoir.
A/M - radiator and radiator cap, Fel-Pro Head bolts w/ washers.
Rebuilt - injectors by MotorWest Performance
Also re-sealed the coolant crossover pipe under the intake manifold with FIPG (it is a common leak that can't be seen)

I highly recommend the Schley Products #64400 crank pulley holding tool, and a Lisle #58430 seal puller tool. Both made quick work of two stubborn tasks.

Now, she runs like a top again.

Installed Hella Supertone’s this weekend.

Moved the trans cooler to the driver side and did a fluid drain and refill with OEM trans fluid.




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